Modify SOG Aegis

[malente]

This might be heresy, but I'd like to ask anyway!

I live in Germany, and here, one hand opening folders that lock are banned.

Now I have recently gotten a SOG Aegis, and wow, what a fantastic knife! Illegal to carry EDC here though

I'd like to make two modifications to the knife and wanted to ask if this is possible to do myself.

Firstly, I would like to remove the thumb-studs to remove the capability of one hand opening. To me this is not a feature I categorically need (I still like it and would prefer to keep it, but I would also like to carry the knife EDC, legally). This modification would make the knife legal to carry AFAIK.

Can I just unscrew the thumb-studs, assuming they are threaded? Or are they welded or heat shrunk?

Secondly, I would like to remove the spring for the assisted opening, as this is a feature that I don't need when there is no more one handed opening mechanism.

Can I just disassemble the knife and take the spring out, then assemble it again? Or does the lock stop
functioning then?

Alternatively, is there a locking folder knife out there similar in blade shape and ergonomics, lines and weight to the Aegis without one handed opening capabilities?


Thanks for any pointers!

Mike

 

[Chris Pierce]

I believe all of this can be done

 

[malente]

I believe all of this can be done

Thanks!

Is that believe as in "have done something similar or seen something like that being done" or a well educated guess

Apologies for asking, but I am just concerned about "breaking" the knife...

 

[batosai117]

On my SOG Trident folder, I've disassembled it and removed both the safety lock and the spring assist. The part that makes the knife stay closed is also the part that makes it stay locked open. If you can't have a one handed opener that also locks, then you could just remove the thumbstuds, but on my trident folder the thumbstuds are also what stabilize the blade in the open position. The flash may be different if they don't touch the handle scale when open.

What to do:

Lay the knife down with the lock release side UP and the blade OPEN. Then use torx bits to remove all of the screws. After this carefully pick up the top scale while trying to keep the knife flat on a table. Once removed you will see (from left to right) the blade, the lock on top of the tang, the spring pushing the lock on top of the tang, the safety lock, and some dead space to the right hand side. The safety lock may just be enough to help you out where you live, just keep it locked at all times.

To remove the spring assist just pick the safety straight up - it doesn't affect anything at all just pick it up and pull it out, carefully remove the lock lever release because it is sitting on a very small pin that you don't want to lose, then you can pull out the locking spring and lock bar all together. Now the blade isn't affected by anything else, just pull the blade off of the pivot and you will see the coil spring at the bottom. Simply remove the spring, add some oil to the pivot while you're in there, and put the blade back in along with the lock bar and spring, followed by the lock lever release, and lastly the safety lock if you desire having that in there too. Then just add some loctite to the blade and torx bit everything back in place.

Works on all SAT models, the safety and spring assist can be removed without any affect to the knife at all. The tough spot on closing (that resistance felt when closing an SAT knife) is simply the lock bar being pushed into place to keep the knife in the closed position. It's actually not the coil spring that you are fighting, just the lock

I hope this helps, J>

 

[malente]

On my SOG Trident folder, I've disassembled it and removed both the safety lock and the spring assist. The part that makes the knife stay closed is also the part that makes it stay locked open. If you can't have a one handed opener that also locks, then you could just remove the thumbstuds, but on my trident folder the thumbstuds are also what stabilize the blade in the open position. The flash may be different if they don't touch the handle scale when open.

What to do:

Lay the knife down with the lock release side UP and the blade OPEN. Then use torx bits to remove all of the screws. After this carefully pick up the top scale while trying to keep the knife flat on a table. Once removed you will see (from left to right) the blade, the lock on top of the tang, the spring pushing the lock on top of the tang, the safety lock, and some dead space to the right hand side. The safety lock may just be enough to help you out where you live, just keep it locked at all times.

To remove the spring assist just pick the safety straight up - it doesn't affect anything at all just pick it up and pull it out, carefully remove the lock lever release because it is sitting on a very small pin that you don't want to lose, then you can pull out the locking spring and lock bar all together. Now the blade isn't affected by anything else, just pull the blade off of the pivot and you will see the coil spring at the bottom. Simply remove the spring, add some oil to the pivot while you're in there, and put the blade back in along with the lock bar and spring, followed by the lock lever release, and lastly the safety lock if you desire having that in there too. Then just add some loctite to the blade and torx bit everything back in place.

Works on all SAT models, the safety and spring assist can be removed without any affect to the knife at all. The tough spot on closing (that resistance felt when closing an SAT knife) is simply the lock bar being pushed into place to keep the knife in the closed position. It's actually not the coil spring that you are fighting, just the lock

I hope this helps, J>

Fantastic, thanks!!! I will try it tonight, and take pics in the process...

 

[dberry]

This is a helpful thread Ive needed a new EDC for a while and will pick up a trident and was questioning if the blade would be affected if the SAT failed but I guess not so thats great to know.

 

[craytab]

Works on all SAT models, the safety and spring assist can be removed without any affect to the knife at all. The tough spot on closing (that resistance felt when closing an SAT knife) is simply the lock bar being pushed into place to keep the knife in the closed position. It's actually not the coil spring that you are fighting, just the lock

This IS good to know. I have taken my flash II apart to clean but didn't pay attention to what made the blade stay closed. I would have figured like most assisted openers that the spring for the SAT would be the mechanism for keeping the blade closed.