Modifying a CBBL into Something like an AXIS lock

S

Sharperthansticks

Joined
Sep 19, 2017
Messages
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I have a bunch of Manix 2's, and while I love the ergos of a Manix once it's in place in my hand for cutting, I really hate the CBBL and have always viewed it as a crappy way to avoid impinging on the (recently expired) AXIS lock patent. I'd like to try to modify one of my CBBL axis locks so that it functions more like an AXIS lock. My idea is to epoxy something to the plastic piece so that it has much more thumb purchase, but I don't have firmer ideas on what to use for the piece to glue on or which epoxy to use, and I'd rather not ruin a perfectly good knife for nothing.

Has anyone tried this? Does anyone have any more specific ideas I might try to actually get this done? The first thing I need is to figure out what to affix to the existing plastic piece of the CBBL. The next question will be prepping the two surfaces for mating, and finally, the last question will be what to use to affix the two together.
 
If I were going to do this I would probably clean the surface of the plastic with soapy water and a toothbrush, then dry, then apply JB weld to the desired thickness, then after it dries sand it flat, then apply 3m stair step or skateboard tape.

If you don't like the result I think you can buy a new cage from Spyderco

The fancier way would be to make a whole new cage out of micarta or g10 or aluminum or whatever.
 
Sharperthansticks, reads like you're looking for more purchase than the OEM thumb buttons. maybe even a lighter spring? Over in the spyderco forum folks replace the factory bearing with a nitrided ceramic one and modify the spring for less tension. It's pretty obvious by staring at one, that the Manix could have some G10 shaved away from the surface around those buttons.
I'm all over DIY hacks though, so I look forward to your posts.
 
Like I said before, thanks to both of you for your thoughts. I like FishFace's idea of the JB Weld but think it could be simplified. As long as I would bother to sand down the dollop of weld, instead of affixing tape to it, why not use a Dremel bit to texturize it, so all you have is the JB weld?

Scottc3 has a point, though; the spring tension is too high, and since I take off my pocket clips (not to save them from scratches but rather because almost every pocket clip produces back-of-palm hot spots for me), it's even harder to get a good grip on the knife to overcome that spring strength. The JB Weld solution would give me more purchase, which would help, but would it be enough to make that lock into something comfortable to deal with?

I have 4V and M4 Manix 2's. They're expensive, as you know. I'm slightly handy but am no whiz; I'd rather not mess up my knives so that they are unpleasant to use AND worth 1/3 of what they would have been worth without the mods. Maybe the best thing to do would be to send one of them to Josh, the guy who does the regrinds and scale work.
 
If member Malpas was successful at printing a functional handle for his bastard file (see "When hobbies collide" in this forum), you need to find someone who will print you new buttons, plus maybe a lighter spring mod. Be careful though, I recall reading about printed back spacers that were either not tuff enough or sized incorrectly, for griptilians. Ping Josh, and Malpas for printing 411.
I would tend to get a chunk of robust material and shape it with dremel tool instead of using jb weld on oem buttons. I any case, make sure jb weld is the optimum chemistry for oem button material if you go that route.
 
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