Modifying a production sheath..

[darkseraphane]

Hello again, (This will likely be a longer one)

I found myself a little project to play around with. I wonder how difficult it would be to make additions to a nylon sheath--particularly an insert with
drain-holes. I find myself in all sorts of environs and situations. I like the nylon/kydex sheaths, they're quiet but still rugged and tough. I've got a sheath to experiment with. So far, the only option I can see is to go 'outside
the box'. I've been tinkering with an idea. Even experimented with it a little bit so far. The sheath I'm going to experiment with is a typical production nylon sheath. (Yes, I could have someone craft a sheath for me, but this is
a project for me to play with )

I'm thinking of severing the stitching, and adding an insert by plying and forming hot kydex into it. (I'll likely come out of this with some burned fingers). This SHOULD (I'm presuming) fuse the two materials, this way it won't slip out on me. The sheath I have is actually fairly tough, but not enough for me. (This also gives me a chance to make the SHEATH atleast
my own--I don't dare to try and modify a knife or tool--well, except for adding a lanyard braid with a skull). I may also consider a rubber coating
between the nylon and kydex. In this manner, I can also create an insert
which can act as a protective shell but also have drain holes (I cracked the
last insert I tried to drill holes into.. ) I also intend to triple the stitching
and with a much stronger grade of material. The kydex will also extend over
the belt-loop behind the handle, in order to stiffen and strengthen the entire
sheath. I'll also fiddle around with the back of the sheath.

Thanks in advance for any help or comments. I've done this before, but it's
been awhile. I hope it works. (Yea, I could just mold the kydex around the knife..but I'm afraid I'd mess up the tempering. Have before.)

 

[helmar4578]

When you get it finished we would like to see the results of what you have been thinking about. You have heard the old adage "Action is stronger than words?" I'm smiling!!

 

[defaultuser]

(Yea, I could just mold the kydex around the knife..but I'm afraid I'd mess up the tempering. Have before.)

Messing up the HT with kydex? At what temp do you heat your kydex, for Pete's sake? I think you're pretty safe there; Kydex shoudn't be heated above 400 anyway (anyone know the melting temp?), which is not enough to mess up the HT for most steels, especially for the very short period of time the knife is close to the hot kydex. Just my $0.02.

 

[sheathmaker]

Plus one on the previous post. Your are not going to hurt or even modify the heat treat on your knife by molding Kydex. Ask the Kydex pros here.

Paul

 

[darkseraphane]

Haven't worked with the stuff in quite awhile. I did find a website that offers heavy-duty
nylon sheets (18$ a yard!). Pics? Yeah, sure, a friend of mine can help me with that--he's great with cameras. I'll be happy to post some--I always enjoy sharing what I've learned with others. I've actually decided to do this AND make my own sheath by hand. I want to see which one ends up being better. I hate production sheaths--some are good though. I have, infact, had another idea. I may even add (for this one) a rectangular, two-piece kydex insert, over which the nylon could be both sewn and riveted. This should also allow for retention strength to be adjusted.

Rectangular shape
Heavy-duty ballistic nylon
Kydex backing and insert (this way, the sheath has stability and protection for the blade)
Two retention straps (velcro and button)
Molle compatible
Two leg straps (I cannot remember what they're called--malice clips?)
Two leg-tie rivets (options are nice, straps sometimes get annoying)

I've found through trial-and-error that I prefer a cross-drawn sheath. Doesn't knock into things as often, atleast in my own humble opinion. This also allows for the back of the sheath to prove as useful as the front. I also believe that a sheath should be useful for more than just carrying the knife itself (and that the quality of the sheath should be equal to that of the knife itself, carrying a high-end knife in a poorly-made sheath..I've regretted that before)

If the sheath is worn in a cross-drawn method, it can house a number of small, though useful items on the back of the sheath (which also allows them to be more effectively protected. Based on my experiences and training, I've found some items to be more useful and valuable (and in compact sizes! ). A ferro and mag rod. A tapered diamond-grit rod. A penlight. P-51 can opener. A slim folding knife (gerber paraframes work well for this, I typically use these as fire-knives). Well, at any rate, one could likely add quite a few small items. But I do intend to make use of the sheath's back. As for the front of the sheath, I have ideas for that as well.

Any help or advice is welcome, and I thank you heartily in advance. It will take likely around three to four weeks (I have to take measurements, research heating-methods, draw out a plan, prepare the materials, etc), but I WILL post some pictures for you all to see, I promise I'll likely modify the sheath to death, though, lol..it's difficult for a sheath to be equal to the knife itself. I'll really have to figure out some serious mods.

(How much heat does it take to mess up a heat treatment? I've seen people stir cups of boiling water before..I figured that would be enough..)

 

[darkseraphane]

Hello again,

I've had a change of plans.. Got a good look at the knife I was planning this sheath for..
Too big, too clumsy, too expensive. However, I still plan to make my own sheath & to modify a production sheath. Only difference is I won't have a need for an insert now. I've finally chosen a knife. (Took long enough). I have other plans for the sheath, which I won't put up just yet. One difference is, though, that my sheath will be taking on a classic set-up.