Modifying RMD for fire steel use?

vltor17

vltor17

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Joined
Dec 5, 2008
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Has anybody ground a hard 90 on the RMD for striking a fire steel? Trying to decide to do it on the spine, or maybe on the choil. Don't really want the coil to have a hard, sharp 90 though, it's pretty comfy now. I know I could carry a striker, but I really like striking with the knife. Any suggestions? Thanks, guys.
 
How about removing the coating from the lanyard hole and stick your firesteel through there?
 
Second vote to carry a striker, Its small and not hard to find a place for. Mine is an old piece of hack saw with the teeth ground off, its small, light, and carries like its not even there.
 
I'd carry a striker too. But if I had to have one, I'd put it on the butt somewhere.
 
leatherman said:
Second vote to carry a striker, Its small and not hard to find a place for. Mine is an old piece of hack saw with the teeth ground off, its small, light, and carries like its not even there.
Click to expand...

^^^ This. Tie it to your fire steel with a lanyard.
 
Alright, I'll carry a striker. Until I wear the coating enough to justify stripping, then I'm grinding a hard 90 on the spine! Thanks, guys.
 
A striker made out of a short piece of an old hacksaw blade will still work better. Easier to control the shower of sparks, less likely to cut yourself.

Now, in a real survival situation, it doesn't matter. Use what you got (and pray that you do have a fire steel)!
 
Never have had any trouble cutting myself (with that task...), I move the fire steel, not the knife. Get plenty of sparks off of knives that I did square the spine on. I always have a leatherman on me, the file works pretty good too. Just can't bring myself to use the edge. Can't do it.
Thanks, Guys.
 
You should of had the custom shop put a swedge on the back of the knife.Sell that one on the exchange.Order one with a swedge.Get what you want.I wouldn't grind any steel off.just my 2 cents.
 
Just put a notch with a drill on the spine, or with a drum sander.

A_c, you're wrong, I've tried with a few knives and ferro rod left deep scratches in the spine... And also used it to steel a blade once...
 
If you lose your striker, you'll need to use your knife. If you don't plan to sell the knife, who cares what someone else might think about you squaring a spot on the spine?

As long as you do a clean job of it and make it look nice, it wont hurt the resale value much anyway.

I say do it.
 
You're pretty much right. Not going to sell it, so I'm going to square it. That's what I'm used to, and it works for me. Thanks for all the suggestions, though.
 
I carry a striker with the plan that if I ever lose the striker I'll just use the blade and the striker is built into the sheath. If you square off the spine..... won't you have to also grind one of the sides to get a good spark? We did this to an ESEE-3 once and basically just took out the width of a file along one side and the same width across the top, you don't need to grind the whole spine... just 3/4" or so. A little filing along the side in one spot, match it up on the top and you're done without removing all of the coating or changing the fit of your sheath. Just thinking out loud, hope this helps.


Eli
 
Yes, I didn't think about removing the coating from a little bit of one side. The other knives I did, I had already stripped. Also, you're right, not the whole spine. I've always just done a small section right in front of the scales. Thanks, that was helpful.
 
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