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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Modiy Buck 110
- Thread starter MtnBob
- Start date
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2010
- Messages
- 3,115
You may wat to consult Leroy Remer of triple R Knives he does custom work and is a great guy. He can tell you what to use and how to use it. it isn't as easy as it sounds.
David Martin
Moderator
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2008
- Messages
- 19,520
He normally doesn't posts here . Perhaps Flatlander . DM
Here is Leroy's website http://www.triple-r-knives.com/
Another site for knives is www.arksknives.com Eric should up and running soon.
- Joined
- May 21, 2007
- Messages
- 1,432
Here is a really short tutorial I wrote for a lapidary site -
1. Tape blade for safety.
2. Cut off tops of center pin and scale pins with a dremel cut off wheel.
3. Pry off one scale with a sharp knife. Be carful not to use much force or you will roll the edge of the liner. It should come off pretty darn easy if you have the pins cut down deep enough.
4. Pry up the scale on the other side with the knife. Put the knife under the scale near the center pin and punch the pin through the scale. If you try to pry off the 2nd side you will pull out the center pin.
5. Pull out the scale pins. They pull out easily.
6. Pein one side of the center pin to spread it so it won't pull out. Tap it flush. Cut off the other side close to flush. Pein it as flush as possible. Be carful not to hit the liner when doing this as it will show as dips on the spine later.
7. Use the cut off wheel to cut the peined pins just a bit lower so there is no chance you will have a high spot.
8. File the liners flat. There are usually slightly high spots at the pin holes. Be sure your file does not hit the center pin. If you do hit the center pin use the dremel and cut off wheel to take down the high spot(s).
9. File the bolsters vertical edges flat. There is usually a slight lip at the top from the factory buffing.
10. Clean the knife well to get out any buffing compound from the factory and put a bit of masking tape over the holes you see.
12. Rough up the liners for the adhesive. Be sure to wear gloves and keep them and the knife liners CLEAN!!! I use the edge of my file for most knives. If you use a dremel drum keep your finger tip over the bolster edge as you can bet the dremel will get away from you and gouge the top lip of the bolster.
11. Cut two tiny pieces of masking tape about 1/10 to 1/8 inch square to go over the holes in the liners that are above the rocker arm at the rear bolster. I use the back of a pair of tweezers to rock back and forth over the tape to get it VERY thin. If you do not do this step you WILL get adhesive on the rocker arm above the tension spring and you will be very, very unhappy with a 110 with no snap.
12. Attach the bolsters with a really good adhesive. I use Loctite 325 for my stone scales.
13. Clean out all of the gunk that will still somehow get into the knife well and between the liners and the rocker arm. If you get "stuff" that gets hard where you can't clean it. It is a bit of a problem but not fatal. You can use a .002 shim that will slip between the liner and rocker arm - even if you are using stone. Trust me I know......
1. Tape blade for safety.
2. Cut off tops of center pin and scale pins with a dremel cut off wheel.
3. Pry off one scale with a sharp knife. Be carful not to use much force or you will roll the edge of the liner. It should come off pretty darn easy if you have the pins cut down deep enough.
4. Pry up the scale on the other side with the knife. Put the knife under the scale near the center pin and punch the pin through the scale. If you try to pry off the 2nd side you will pull out the center pin.
5. Pull out the scale pins. They pull out easily.
6. Pein one side of the center pin to spread it so it won't pull out. Tap it flush. Cut off the other side close to flush. Pein it as flush as possible. Be carful not to hit the liner when doing this as it will show as dips on the spine later.
7. Use the cut off wheel to cut the peined pins just a bit lower so there is no chance you will have a high spot.
8. File the liners flat. There are usually slightly high spots at the pin holes. Be sure your file does not hit the center pin. If you do hit the center pin use the dremel and cut off wheel to take down the high spot(s).
9. File the bolsters vertical edges flat. There is usually a slight lip at the top from the factory buffing.
10. Clean the knife well to get out any buffing compound from the factory and put a bit of masking tape over the holes you see.
12. Rough up the liners for the adhesive. Be sure to wear gloves and keep them and the knife liners CLEAN!!! I use the edge of my file for most knives. If you use a dremel drum keep your finger tip over the bolster edge as you can bet the dremel will get away from you and gouge the top lip of the bolster.
11. Cut two tiny pieces of masking tape about 1/10 to 1/8 inch square to go over the holes in the liners that are above the rocker arm at the rear bolster. I use the back of a pair of tweezers to rock back and forth over the tape to get it VERY thin. If you do not do this step you WILL get adhesive on the rocker arm above the tension spring and you will be very, very unhappy with a 110 with no snap.
12. Attach the bolsters with a really good adhesive. I use Loctite 325 for my stone scales.
13. Clean out all of the gunk that will still somehow get into the knife well and between the liners and the rocker arm. If you get "stuff" that gets hard where you can't clean it. It is a bit of a problem but not fatal. You can use a .002 shim that will slip between the liner and rocker arm - even if you are using stone. Trust me I know......
