Moldy leather- If it's not one thing, it's another!

Codger_64

Codger_64

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This morning I was going through a box of knives to asess what exactly remained of my collection that theives missed. This box contains a grouping of 30 or so Schrade Sharpfingers and variants (154OT/UH, etc.). I only counted six empty sheaths, so they didn't pluck too many from this box, but some of the missing ones were relatively uncommon limited editions and special factory orders.

But as I went through the box I noticed an invader! A whitish powdery mold! One sheath in the bottom was darn near hairy with the stuff! Well, in my haste I wiped them all down with a soft clean cotton cloth, so no pictures to show of the culprit.

But I need to know if there is something I can do to prevent it's return? I know that I did not get rid of it entirely, except that which was most visible and acessable. And that mold forms "roots" (cilia?) that simply wiping won't remove. Not to mention the inside grains of the sheaths and around the stitching. All of these are Schrade and associated companies factory sheaths and vary in age from ten to thirty years old. There is no apparent damage once the surfaces are wiped. But I want to kill the crap and not have it come back. Thoughts? Vinegar? Fumigation? A spray mold and mildew killer? Something short of nukeing them from space?

Humidity control in my house is not possible. It was built before Hitler bombed Pearl Harbor and has no insulation, original windows and doors, no central heat or air.

Michael

PS: Custom sheaths made by Paul were not affected.
 
Michael, I suspect the sheaths I made got through the ordeal unscathed because of the finish process I use which effectively seals the leather and to a great degree eliminates trapping the ambient moisture.....not waterproof, but a pretty good barrier. I suspect the other sheaths were factory contract sheaths and as such are generally shipped with no oil treatment or top finish at all.

The sheaths that were affected could be treated using several different methods. I would wipe and brush each sheath very thoroughly paying particular attention to the stitch lines and folds. Then using saddle soap and plain water give them a good bath. Then allow to air dry thoroughly. When completely dry apply a very light coat of Neatsfoot Oil, and after that has leveled out apply a product called TanKote by Feibing's. This step will seal the leather, and although there will probably have been some darkening of the leather, things should be pretty well back to normal.

Now, it will be essential that you try to remember to inspect the sheaths every three to six months and keep them in the most humid free environment you can find.

I'm sure others will also offer different solutions, and that's perfectly okay. I'm just telling you what works for me.

Good luck!

Paul
 
Thanks Paul! I figured you would have some suggestions. And your process is what I supposed that kept your sheaths mold-free. In fact, there were several other sheaths in there which were black... looked like a factory lacquer dye that were also mold free. And one I had dyed years ago with Fiebings also.

One problem is that the sheaths and knives aren't users, they are collectors so I don't want to change the factory appearance of the sheaths. Another is that basically, the humidity level inside the house is pretty consistant with the air humidity outside as there is fairly free air exchange. I am located in Southwest Tennessee just above the Alabama and Missisippi State lines and about a mile from the Tennessee River. So most of the year humidity is pretty high. Since mold is a fungus, I wondered if some antifungal foot/shoe spray might work.
 
Michael, 1. if the subject sheaths had been exposed to sunlight or really any light for the past few years they would already be darker, but it would have been gradual and probably not really noticed. 2. with the cleanup and treatment they will turn darker at first and then lighten up some. There would have been some difference in color from one lot of factory sheaths to the next which is normal. 4. If a factory sheath is exposed to sunlight it will darken, but will still be a true representation of the factory sheath.

Finally, a fungicide might do the trick for sure, but it may also darken the leather some. The Neatsfoot Oil will also make your sheaths last a LOT longer by nourishing the leather.

Paul
 
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Im srry but the wwII history nut in me is driving me crazy with the Hitler bombing pearl harbor part since it was japan and im sure uk this but it bothers me
 
Its an old joke, dont let it bother you. ;)
 
18X said:
Im srry but the wwII history nut in me is driving me crazy with the Hitler bombing pearl harbor part since it was japan and im sure uk this but it bothers me
Click to expand...

You write run on sentences with misspelled or abbreviated words, and no punctuation. I'm sure you know this but it bothers me.

Paul
 
Us older gents do tend to use obscure references and old jokes. I would have said something like "since Hector was a pup", but I doubt many would get that reference these days either. Cooper is not widely read any more in schools. More is the pity.
 
Codger, have you tried a little bleach water? 1 tea spoon of bleach per gallon will disinfect but not discolor. I've had the same problem and this is what I used (if I recall correctly it was also on a sharp finger sheath!) I also used a little mineral oil on the sheath afterwards. I believe that sunlight and fresh air will also help.

The sharp finger in question is what I would call "old" I remember it from at least 20 years ago, it belonged to my father so I don't actually know how old it is.
 
Thanks for the suggestions Chris. Well, having been in the pool industry since the 1970's I know what chlorine can and can't do. And I would prefer to not use it if possible to avoid it, even in weak concentrations. You should see what a far weaker concentration does to chrome plated tools over time. And whatever I use has to reach deep inside the sheaths as well since I am sure the mold is lurking there as well. It isn't an urgent thing, but I am considering fumigating with an anti-fungal foot spray. It is an aerosolized powder and shouldn't harm the leather or change it's colors. I would hate to risk that since most are new in the box and never exposed to sunlight or even much artificial light. Ant the factory color variations are one interesting feature of the old/new knives. If it were a user, I would have no qualms about doing whatever to it.
 
I need to read back for the references, but Dave Cole had a fantastic mix he used to use to clean his leather. The best I can remember its a powder he mixed in water then sprayed it on the leather. Its safe to use and removes all contaminants. Sadly, cant get it from the source, rest in peace my friend and mentor. :(
 
I live in a tropical environment, so mold and fungus are a constant threat. As a photographer I have a lot of money invested in top quality lenses that can be permanently ruined if mold or fungus begins to grow on the inside glass elements. But there is a very inexpensive product made by 'Hakuba' that stops all mold and fungus before it takes hold. It's a simple fungicide packet (like those little silica gel packets) that we keep in our camera bags and dry boxes all the time. They are good for about a year or so, longer if you use 'dry boxes' for your storage. These plastic dry boxes aren't as expensive as the electric ones we use, but work very well. Copy the photo and take it to a 'good' camera store. They may have to order it for you, depending on where you live, but Hakuba sell world-wide. Silica gel packets work too, but they just keep things dry. The anti-fungus packets kill off the problem. Both work best in an enclosed storage environment.


Stitchawl
 
I live in the tropics. In the dry months I spray my leather sheaths with a mix of water and clove oil ( a fairly weak mix). Let it dry in the open and then buff with a clean cloth. Seems to protect against mold when the humidity begins to build.
 
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