Mono vs. Poly: New Perpectives

KarlMaldensNose

KarlMaldensNose

Joined
Feb 3, 2009
Messages
1,342
I got the MDF board and 1 micron Blue Diamond Honing Spray problem sorted out. I still don't like the MDF as much as leather or legal pad cardboard with the diamond spray, though. Nevertheless, I am thrilled with the 1 micron spray in general and am now curious about getting loco with 0.5 and possibly even 0.25 micron spray. Hand American is still down. I've looked elsewhere and found a ton. Also running into some contradictory claims and science regarding the monocrystaline vs. polycrystaline diamond issue.

I started a thread about this same subject a few months ago and nothing conclusive emerged... just opinions, although most seemed convinced that monocrystaline (the kind DMT champions) were "better." But all of those perspectives and reports were concerning diamond hones, laps, plates, etc. -- i.e. diamonds embedded in a substrate. Apparently the mono can be embedded in the nickel better and doesn't break/wear down as quickly as poly. Fine. But how does this translate to diamond sprays, compounds/pastes, slurries, etc.?

The research I'm digging up seems to overwhelmingly suggest that poly is better than mono in these types of applications, and the price difference reflects that (some distributors offer both, in either oil or water base:cool:). I will throw you guys a couple links to check out and maybe some comments and opinions will be generated.

The mono vs. poly info. on this site can be found near the top, under the subheading, "Diamond Products".
http://www.kemet-met.co.uk/polishing.asp#lub

This whole PDF doc is dedicated to the difference of the two, with an interesting bar graph on the second page.
http://www.metallographic.com/Newsletters/PC-diamond-newsletter3.PDF
 
And just so I don't have to start another thread (cuz even I'm getting sick of my own questions), could someone chime in on how to clean a leather strop loaded with steel and diamond spray (water based, but it must have other additives for colour and suspension)? Or at least how you know it's time to clean it? Mine is almost completely black/grey after only a few days... I've used it ALOT.

I've heard of using WD-40 and a rag, but that was always for someone asking about cleaning waxy chromium oxide off their leather. I figured diamond might be different. Thanks.
 
I have been using my 2 strops for a couple months but haven't cleaned them yet so I don't have a suggestion on cleaning. Mine is getting pretty dark in the center but doesn't seem to hurt anything.

So how are the edges turning out? Are you able to whittle hair? Pop hairs off above the skin? Are you impressed with it? I have seen your questions but haven't heard you say what kind of results you are getting so far.
 
FlaMtnBkr said:
So how are the edges turning out? Are you able to whittle hair? Pop hairs off above the skin? Are you impressed with it? I have seen your questions but haven't heard you say what kind of results you are getting so far.
Click to expand...

I'm having the best results--popping hairs off skin and whittling free-standing hair on my arm--with knives that already had phenomenal out-of-the-box (OOTB) sharpness. And it's not that they were already able to do these hair tricks OOTB; it was the 1 mic. spray that definitely took them to that next level. But I suspect these knives (Caly3 and Umnumzaan) had more refined scratch patterns and acute bevels to begin with, and that made it easier to get them to where I wanted.

I've hit a brick wall with my CPM D2 Paramilitary, though. The 1 mic. on leather and legal pad undoubtedly made it scream, but not to the level of my Caly or Umnum. I orginally thought it might be due to the steel--and it still might be, in part--but I've noticed the bevel on it is somewhat more obtuse and I think that's the main culprit. But it should be able to pop and whittle hair regardless of the bevel angle, and it does. I can get it to whittle a few select thick hairs, but unlike the Caly and Umnum with their narrower bevels, it doesn't pass with flying colours my push cut test on cigarette filters that I've developed (hey, at least something good and productive can come from that filthy habit).

Many more knives and steels to try out in my stash, but I'm getting especially excited to try out my incoming knives with CPM M4 (Ritter Mini Grip and RIL Military), CTS-XHP (Manix 2 ) and M390 (BM Mini Pocket Rocket).

I've got to call Hand American to get my hands on some 0.5 and 0.25 mic jsut to see what it can do for myself!

One more thing. I believe I'm getting better results on the leather and cardboard (and rock hard felt to a lesser extent) than on MDF because those materials are more forgiving of poor technique. Stropping on MDF is essentially the same as freehand sharpening on a benchstone, in that you have to more precisely maintain the pre-existing bevel angle while doing it. I've never tried freehand before, and there I believe lies my problem. But I'll get it with enough practice!
 
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