Moore Maker or Northwoods?

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wildmike

Joined
Nov 17, 2007
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I am in the market for a mountain man lockback. It's down to two contenders. A Moore Maker single blade lockback with ramhorn handle, and The mountain man lockback by Northwoods.

I am already familiar with the 1095 blades, but have never used a D2 knife.

Anyone have any experience with either of these products.

How is D2 in comparison with 1095.
 
I believe both knives are made by Queen, I think you'd be happy with either. FWIW, I really like the looks of the Northwoods version, that would be my choice. Northwoods is a higher-end brand, so it might have slightly better F&F.

As for D2 vs. 1095, in my experience, D2 is tougher to sharpen, but holds an edge a bit better than 1095. I think D2 is supposed be more corrosion resistant, but that hasn't been my experience. If you take good care of your knives, corrosion won't be a problem with either. Both are excellent steels.
 
The ram's horn scales on those MM single lockback trappers have been known to shrink... The knives are made by Bear & Son for MM.

D2/1095, your choice. D2 can be tough to sharpen.

-- Sam
 
Why not consider a Great Eastern No.23 Liner lock as an alternative? Carbon blade with swedge and about 4.25" closed, various scales. The No.73 liner lock is a smaller version at 3.75"
 
I'll check out the Great Eastern only place ive seen with a selection of their knives in knivesshipfree.com I think.

One of my considertions is the lanyard hole on the above models.

Yosemite does D2 take as crisp of an edge as 1095? Most high chrome and stainless steels don't which is why I don't like stainless.
 
Queen makes the MooreMaker versions, not Bear. Here is the stag version.
MMML086106LB.JPG


The Great Easterns are nice as well in the LinerLock setup. Here is a BoneStag version.
GEML235108LCSB.JPG


I really like the Brimstone Bone.
GEMLT235108LBR.JPG



Mike Latham
CollectorKnives.Net
 
Knifeswapper how comfortable is that liner setup on the Great Eastern? How is the fit and finish on the mooremaker it looks gret from here.
 
wildmike said:
I'll check out the Great Eastern only place ive seen with a selection of their knives in knivesshipfree.com I think.
Click to expand...

Check out Mike's (Knifeswapper's) site: www.collectorknives.net
He has a great selection of GEC, at the lowest prices online, and is a first-rate vendor. The Great Eastern trappers don't have lanyard holes, but they are the nicest knives I have ever seen- at any price. I have three already, with two more on the way. The smaller (#73) model is exceptional.
 
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I really like the Great Easterns but am unsure of the liner lock style used. I plan to use the knife as my final backup when camping etc, that is also why I find a lanyard hole desireable but not required. Queen makes a mountin man lockback but the blade is D2 same as the Northwoods and I am unsure of that steel due to reasons I've previously stated. German Eye Brand makes a stag sodbuster lockback, but the distributor prints a disclaimer about fit and finish, and more importantly that the locks may be contrary. I am willing to pay for a knife which meets my needs, and functions. I am willing if I need to to have one made but don t know which maker to contact for such work.

I could go to one of the high tech one handers, but I prefer the more traditional materials and form.
 
The liner lock on the Great Easterns is very similar to that on the Moore Maker Yosemite Sam posted above (but not as bulky) and like Case's liner locks (and Camillus etc.) It is the traditional liner lock style.
 
wildmike said:
Yosemite does D2 take as crisp of an edge as 1095? Most high chrome and stainless steels don't which is why I don't like stainless.
Click to expand...
Missed that question earlier. IMO, no, but you'll get a lot of, er, "discussion" about D2 around here. I have had issues with it myself, especially from Queen, as it can take forever to rebevel an edge, and Queen doesn't usually do very good bevels. However, my last one (ACSB Utility Knife) came very sharp and with decent bevels. I have since touched it up a few times and it's a very good "using" knife. (How odd: A utile Utility Knife.)

In general I have found D2 takes a nice toothy edge, but when you try to put a polished/"crisp" edge on it my experience has been that it dulls out. I really prefer carbon steels for the quality of edge, but use D2 and stainless a lot because I often use my knives for food, and am not all that much of a "patina head"... :)

-- Sam
 
I missed the "Mountain Man" bit in the original post. Sorry, my Moore Maker suggestion above was not appropriate. Still, I have heard of issues with their buffalo horn.

A few people here have the Queen MM you mention, and have had blade play issues with it. I have a Schatt & Morgan version, and it has no blade play. 420HC stainless, though.

If I may, why not consider a Buck 110? $30, strong as an ox, solid lock, excellent heat treat, and a true classic. I used to camp with a guy who could be comfortable the entire weekend with a tarp, a lawn chair, some rope, and a 110. Buy two and keep one in your truck in case you lose the other.

-- Sam
 
I've had Buck 110's and they are too heavy and bulky for my tastes. They also have stainless blades and I'm really picky about my edges.

All tyhe mountain man part is is an attempt to identify certain patterns and models.

Buffalo horn and rams horn can shrink being natural materials, this can be prevented by applying oil occassionaly. I love buffalo horn it is lovely once polished up.

That Brimstone bone on the Great Eastern is great. I have used a couple of the traditional type liner locks before but they seemed to be positioned farther forward.
My concern with the Great Easterns design is with comfort in use and unintentional disengagement during use.

I only mentioned the Queen to recieve feedback. I have doubts about the quality of most production stuff nowdays.

From what I've heard here and otherwise I will probably skip D2. The problem with the High chromium steels is in their mealurgical makeup which is why when you seem to be finaly getting an exceptional edge...all the sudden your dull.

I am particular about my equipment because I'm prone to walking off into the woods for months at a time and don't like to carry junk which frustrates me.
 
I have had good luck with Queen's D2. It can be brought to a polished fine edge, but it definitely takes more work than 1095. It will hold the edge longer, you just have to decide if longer edgeholding or ease of putting a fine edge are more important to you. In my experience, D2 is fairly stain resistant, but it will pit over time.

If the Buck 110 wasn't too heavy for your taste, in the same price range as the Mountain Man you could get an Alaskan Guide version of the 110 from Cabelas. Buck has about the best mass-produced heat treat of S30V out there. It takes a good fine edge without a huge amount of effort, and holds it a long time.
 
yosemite, that is a Bear pattern. Price is respective to quality; but a good knife for the money. Quite a bit smaller knife.

wildmike, I like the linerlock on the GEC's better than any I have seen as far as functionality. I wouldn't get any more concerned about tripping it inadvertently than the mountain man models. Matter of fact, with the tougher backspring it would be a chore to do it accidentally.

Mike Latham
CollectorKnives.Net
 
Knifeswapper I checked your site and see you have models of both on hand. which has the stronger spring ? which the thicker blade?
 
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