Mora 2000/Kansbol discussion

TheDandyLion

TheDandyLion

Joined
Mar 27, 2013
Messages
764
Lately I have been eyeing Mora's new release "Kansbol". I have always like the look of the 2000 but there were always a few issues I had with it. The Kansbol seems to fix all of those things. But, I still have my reservations. Mainly, I am not sure about the thinning out of the spine. Is it really just a drastic taper or is it actually a beveled grind with the same spine thickness? (like a hald FFG/half scadni). Does anyone have input on Mora compound grinds? Also any pictures of the 2000/Kansbol spine compared to a Companion or other standard Mora spines side by side would be quite nice. Also, if any of you have negative/positive experiences with the Mora 2000 or first impressions of the Kansbol, they're more than welcome!

Thanks
 
At least on the 2k it was a simple reduction in thickness, not a beveled grind. Same thickness at the edge shoulder as at the spine.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
At least on the 2k it was a simple reduction in thickness, not a beveled grind. Same thickness at the edge shoulder as at the spine.
Click to expand...

Hmm... that's unfortunate. I'm not a huge fan of that as I do a lot of thumb assisted cuts and the thin blade isn't great for that (tears up the thumb).
 
Lion.

I have a 2000. So I also have interest in the Kansbol.

I was actually using the 2000 yesterday. I'm mixed about this knife, but whenever I use, it I like it. Yesterday I was out just messing around at my semi-permanent base camp. Nothing elaborate, just a tarp and a fire pit.

But with winter coming on fast here in the northeast. I am in the process of preparing. I fill a few coffee cans full of shavings, so I don't have to mess with that every time I build a fire in the winter. So yesterday, I hauled a few beers and three knives out and had at it.

Fallkniven F1, Bravo-1, and the Mora 2000. I went after the wood with all three. I have to be honest here. I am a huge fan of the convex grinds on both the Bravo and the F1. I am still in the learning curve with scandi grinds.

Both the B1 and the F1 will split better. No surprise there, they are much thicker. All three will roll curls with ease if you adjust your technique according to the grind.

I processed a couple of cans of shavings, using all three. Switching between them on the same sticks. Just to see the difference. Ironically my B1 and F1 were the first two bushy knives I purchased, way back when.

I am having a renewed love affair with both. They have been rocking my world lately. I have the Bravo to a point where wood just leaps off the sticks. About the same with the F-1. Makes me wonder how I ended up with all the draws full of knives I have acquired. (Scratches head)

My 2000 came to me as a gift. It was thrown in with another knife I purchased on here.

You nailed it by saying the Kansbol looks like it addressed some of the 2000's short comings. First off the 2000 has to be the ugliest knife I own hands down. That puke green handle can make me queasy sometimes. No lanyard hole and a dissappointing sheath.

But, like you the blade shape intrigues me. It offers a thicker section for tougher jobs and a thinner section outfront for finer work. In theory it sounds good. But unlike many theories, this one works in application.

One thing that has always bewildered me about Scandi grinds is their performance in many camp chores other than wood processing. Cutting potatoes for example. The wedge shape of the scandi grind seems to wedge the edge itself away from the tater and because of that it wanders. The same with onions. Meat is the same thing only less so. Because the meat tends to give more than the harder veggies and the edge remains in contact with the meat slicing instead of wedging.

For cutting twine, para, or rope. The scandi seems to do fine. And it excellss at wood. All knives are a trade off.

This brings me to the 2000. It is thin enough up front that the wedging effect I mentioned is minimized. Yet I can still drop back and hog wood in the rear. Pretty cool.

The spine on my 2000 is rounded. So the thumb push you mention it pain free. I believe the new Kansbol will arrive with a sharpened spine. Personally I'm not sure I like that idea. Because of what you mention. I tend to have my hands and fingers on the top of the spine quite often. So I see a sharpened spine as a double edged sword. Both literally and figuratively. But I haven't seen one yet.

I own two moras. The 2000 and a #1 classic. Ironically both were gifts that arrived with other purchases. I am the first to admit. I was never much of a Mora fan. I wasn't a hater. Just no experience with any, so not a fan.

Having zero experience with Mora Knives. And no financial dog in the fight. I sort of set out to watch them fail. Actually helping them to fail you could say. I mean, how good can a used $16.00 knife be right?

Much to my surprise, some years later. Neither knife has failed. And I find myself using them more than I expected. Funny the little surprises life tosses at you, if you approach it with an open mind.

I was about ready to plop down some $$$$$ for my next Mora knife. I was leaning toward the Garberg or perhaps the Bushcraft Black. Everybody seems to love the BB, and it's cheaper.

But seeing the new Kansbol has me rethinking that. Mora calls it an All-Round Knife. I agree. Factor in a better sheath, better color, lanyard hole and some other improvements, and I think they're on to something with the Kansbol.

The grip and ergos on the 2000 are excellent, at least for me. Hot, cold, wet, or bloody the grip is there.

I don't have a Companion to compare it to for you. But over the next few days. I will try to get some shots up here of the 2000's spine looking down. I'm not sure I can capture the taper from the top. But it is there. About half way to the point it gets thinner. I have found the rounded spine comfortable for the thumb push you describe.

Another thing I love about this knive and my F1. They're not prissy. By that, I mean, they require no special care in the backwoods. My Bravo-1 is in A2 so it needs to be cleaned, dried, and oiled. The 2000 is pretty weatherproof.

***For the record***
I am not hating on anyone's grinds, or their knives. These are just my observations and things I have noticed in using these knives. All knives have pluses and minuses. I strive to find knives that meet my personal needs, uses, and ergos.
Because I like or dislike a knife, has little bearing on what others might like or not.

With that being said. I find my two gifted Moras to be surprising good knives. Not just good cheap (in my case free) knives. But just plain good knives.

I will work on some pictures. And yes, I am excited about the Kansbol too. I may finally have to purchase a Mora Knife.
 
  • Like
Reactions: vba
TheDandyLion said:
Lately I have been eyeing Mora's new release "Kansbol". I have always like the look of the 2000 but there were always a few issues I had with it. The Kansbol seems to fix all of those things. But, I still have my reservations. Mainly, I am not sure about the thinning out of the spine. Is it really just a drastic taper or is it actually a beveled grind with the same spine thickness? (like a hald FFG/half scadni). Does anyone have input on Mora compound grinds? Also any pictures of the 2000/Kansbol spine compared to a Companion or other standard Mora spines side by side would be quite nice. Also, if any of you have negative/positive experiences with the Mora 2000 or first impressions of the Kansbol, they're more than welcome!

Thanks
Click to expand...

If you are looking for a good Swedish made fixed blade knife I highly recommend the Fallkniven S1. That knife is a beast, there are a few torture tests on youtube and that knife takes it all like my girlfriend.
 
Lion,

I see over on the bushey site you ordered a 2000. So I will skip the photos and save myself some bandwidth.
Congrats and good luck. I'd be curious to hear your feedback after you've had a chance to get acquainted with it.
 
LostViking,

Blatant hijack...

I would be interested to hear your thoughts on the large Kabar for chopping twig and small branches off of firewood and batonning. Worst case... wrist sized balsam
 
Pinnah,

I guess we're safe. Lion hasn't been back for quite a while.

I have gotten pretty fond of my KA-BAR. I think it punches way above it's weight. It won't chop like a BK-9.
But it doesn't weigh a ton either.

I think it does a respectable job,



These were all taken cleanly off with just one swipe. Slightly larger than thumb size,



Here is a cross grain baton. Bigger than wrist size,


All the above was green used for projects.


But I have also taken it through some good sized dry hardwood. This is seasoned cherry,



Much to my surprise. This knife has turned out to be a very decent woods blade. Again in cherry,



People say, that if you beat on these hard enough, long enough. They will snap at the guard. There is a built in stress riser there in the design. I believe that to be true, and have seen some examples of it.

That being said. I am comfortable with this knife in the woods. I am not afraid to use it. And I feel it would do its part to keep me alive. The only time I beat on full sized firewood is within a mile or so of my house.

I believe in the real woods, anything you would logically acquire, this knife would handle with ease.

Hope that helps.

If you haven't seen it. Here is a link to me playing around with my KA-BAR cutting, chopping and cooking. I find this to be a fun knife overall.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1300572-Dog-s-Head-Utility-The-First-Thirty-Days

I really do enjoy this knife,
 
Last edited:
Lost Viking, thanks. Very helpful.

Any reason to think the Kabar is any more prone to breaches than any stick tang knife. Same basic stress rider, no?
 
No sir,

In fact I think is is probably stronger than many. And yes that is a weak spot in a lot of blades.

I don't pretend to understand all that is involved in harmonics and stress risers. But in simple terms. You hit the blade with an object, that causes vibrations. Metal at times can amplify certian wave lengths. Those vibrations travel down the blade. Then they encounter two sharp right angles, and a narrowing of material, they must pass through on their journey to the end of the tang. Not unlike the Mass Pike going into Boston on Monday mornings. It all works great. Right up until it doesn't. Some blades round off those angles to help ease the transition.

It's just that in today's Full Tang focused world, I felt the need to point it out. Any knife will break eventually, if you pound on it long enough. It's just metal fatigue. Sooner or later those molecules say enough and give up the ghost.

I fully expect some day down the road. My KA-BAR might let go. But I am quite comfortable there will be a lot of miles between here and there.

It's a $60.00 knife. I see it as a good value. It is strong enough, sharp enough, and versatile. $60.00 is about 8 packs of cigarettes in today's world. I don't smoke. But what you get with the KA-BAR seems reasonable enough to me.

Knife = 3 or 4 twelve packs of good beer. Some KA-BARs are still around from the 1940s. Beer and cigarettes, not so much.


Like the Kansbol. Or the Garberg. I guess it's all relative
 
Pinnah,

Not sure exactly what you are looking for. But if memory serves, you usually prefer a smaller blade. You may want to have a look at the most recent Bark River Canoe.

It is patterned after the original Marbles Canoe from the early 1900s. They nailed this knife as far as I'm concerned. A2 steel, full tang, corby bolts, and a screw on pommel. I always admired the original Marbles Canoe. It is one of the knives after which the KA-BAR was modeled.

I feel this new one exceeds the original in all areas. Plus it is light and perfectly balanced.

Razor sharp, at least mine was. Full tang, double pinned guard, corby bolts to keep the slabs permanently attached. And the classic look of the original.

I may actually order a second just to have.

Not the monster the KA-BAR is. But it shares some DNA and might fit your needs better. Not in the same ball park price wise though.

Thought I'd point it out in case you haven't seen it.
 
I just bought the kansbol over the 2000, The kansbol has more of a brushed finish where the 2000 has a mirror shine from the photo`s i have seen, I prefer the mirrow but i dont like the handle on the 2000.

I live in the UK, So my kansbol will only see my back garden due to the crazy strict UK knife regulations.

LM4sddD.jpg
 
LostViking said:
No sir,

In fact I think is is probably stronger than many. And yes that is a weak spot in a lot of blades.

I don't pretend to understand all that is involved in harmonics and stress risers. But in simple terms. You hit the blade with an object, that causes vibrations. Metal at times can amplify certian wave lengths. Those vibrations travel down the blade. Then they encounter two sharp right angles, and a narrowing of material, they must pass through on their journey to the end of the tang. Not unlike the Mass Pike going into Boston on Monday mornings. It all works great. Right up until it doesn't. Some blades round off those angles to help ease the transition.

It's just that in today's Full Tang focused world, I felt the need to point it out. Any knife will break eventually, if you pound on it long enough. It's just metal fatigue. Sooner or later those molecules say enough and give up the ghost.

I fully expect some day down the road. My KA-BAR might let go. But I am quite comfortable there will be a lot of miles between here and there.

It's a $60.00 knife. I see it as a good value. It is strong enough, sharp enough, and versatile. $60.00 is about 8 packs of cigarettes in today's world. I don't smoke. But what you get with the KA-BAR seems reasonable enough to me.

Knife = 3 or 4 twelve packs of good beer. Some KA-BARs are still around from the 1940s. Beer and cigarettes, not so much.


Like the Kansbol. Or the Garberg. I guess it's all relative
Click to expand...
Lol I have to agree with ya on the mass Pike speel, im actually from the Gardner/fitchburg area, and am unfortunately all too familiar with the Pike. Ive gotta say, I've wanted a dog's head for awhile, but either my ESEE, Benchmade, or Bark River collection is usually beckoning me to buy more of them lol
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top