Mora 2000 Questions

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repro

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Jun 20, 2007
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I got my Mora 2000 today and am very pleased with the design and handling of it. I was kind of dissapointed that the tip was folded over, should I try to fix this or just live with it?
I also noticed that the inch or so near the tip of the blade is much sharper than the area closer to the handle, and there doesnt seem to be any edge bevel from what I can see. How do you sharpen/maintain a blade like this?
 
I'm afraid I don't understand what you mean by "tip folded over." Could you explain?

I sharpen the whole length of my M2K the say way -- lay the edge bevel on a stone and use even strokes. Unless the grind on yours is radically different from mine, I'm able to lay the thinner point of the blade flat on my stone (actually, my diamond plate) just as easily as the thicker base of the blade.

By "edge bevel," do you mean "secondary bevel?" I.e., an edge "on the edge" of the Scandi grind?
 
OK, so I can just sharpen it like any regular V bevel like most knives? Because its the "Scandi" grinde like you say I wasnt sure if it required a different technique to maintain the two different edge types that it has.

At the very tip theres a piece of bent/rolled metal, so the tip is squared off instead of forming a point. I think this was caused by being throwned around in the sheath alot before it arrived, I can see a little hole at the bottom of the plastic sheath where the tip rides. Its really just the very tip of the tip so maybe I could smooth it out with someone's expertise instruction?

On the tip portion of the blade I can see sort of a bevel like on a V grind blade, but on the back I dont see any V-type/bevel edge at all- it just look like it forms a smooth invisible edge. I plan on buying a loupe of some sort to help see better.

Thanks for the reply.
 
Moras are cheap knives. You cant expect the fit and finish to be that good. To sharpen them just lay the bevel flat with the stone and grind away. I dont see the need for a secondary bevel. On my mora the tip of one of the bevels actually was rounded off/convex-ish but ive been too lazy to grind it down.

If the tip of it is bent just grind at it until you get it back into a tip. Personally if your not going to do any stabbing with it (I just use mine to slice) then id say leave it be.
 
Since theres no visible bevel I dont know how to put the right angle on it. About how much degrees are we talking?
 
repro, I think you got a defective blade. The tip should not be bent at all. The tip on mine is strong enough that I cannot see that happening without it hitting something a lot harder than the inside of the soft plastic sheath they provide.

By the way, my sheath has two drainage holes at the bottom, each about a quarter of the way in from the side.

The bevels on the Mora 2000 are more complex than those on the ordinary, cheaper Moras. You can see a picture here http://www.ragweedforge.com/2000.jpg that shows them.

First, you have the flat of the blade. Then you have the edge bevel, which is broad and slopes directly to the edge without a secondary bevel. Then you also have a third bevel towards the tip which curves down into the edge bevel, narrowing it to the width of an ordinary secondary bevel.

But if you look carefully, you will realize this "secondary bevel" is really the same as the broader bevel towards the ricasso (the part of the blade next to the handle).

You can sharpen this edge either of two ways. You can treat it like an American knife and grind a narrow secondary bevel to strengthen the edge. Or you can sharpen it like a Scandinavian knife and lay the entire edge bevel on a stone as MG Saldivar described.

Before you do go to the trouble of sharpening it, learn to strop it. A very fine edge like this will respond well to stropping on leather or cardboard or even the leg of your jeans.
 
Just wanted to add to the chorus - the sheath has drain holes and seems too thick and even to have been holes punched in by the knife itself. The tip on mine seems okay (not rolled). It might depend on your personal preference, but if it seems like it was mishandled in some manner, maybe it should be exchanged. Apologies for asking if off topic, but does sharpening it like a scandinavian knife (flat on bevel?) cause scratches on the front portion?
 
Take a look at the tip bevel carefully from the spine (top). Sometimes the grind is a little uneven, mine is. That can make it look like a bent tip, when it's really not a problem at all. Most knives' bevels are a little off.
 
Sharpening it like a Scandinavian knife (flat on the bevel) will scratch the bevel itself, that's all.
 
Thanks for the info, Esav, now it makes sense to me. I didnt get that half the blade was the bevel. I'm going to send it back for a new one that hopefully has a flat tip.

Does anyone sharpen this knife like a convex edge with sandpaper?
 
repro said:
Does anyone sharpen this knife like a convex edge with sandpaper?
Click to expand...

I don't know who might, but it's almost beside the point, since the blade is so thin and the bevel so wide. It should be easy to do, though.
 
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