- Joined
- May 9, 2012
- Messages
- 84
Looking to practice sharpening my mora. wondering at what edge angle should I set a DiaFold Magna sharpening system? I know theres a micro bevel, but do most of you just shave this off?
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Mora 840MG: Whats the edge angle?
- Thread starter HeavyTakeMusic
- Start date
I am not really familiar with the magna system, but I agree with getridone; it makes far more sense to sharpen Moras freehand. The bevel is wide enough to sit stably on a stone- it acts as its own guide, just keep a little bit of pressure applied towards the edge of the knife. Scandi grinds are actually great for learning to freehand sharpen. If you tried to set an angle on your guide and it was only a tiny bit off, you would end up doing a ton of work to re-profile the bevel to the new angle, since the bevel is so large.
To actually answer the question you asked, I would expect the included edge angle to be around 20 degrees (10 per side). This is based on measurements taken on two moras I own, a #1 & #2. I like to get rid of the microbevel, but without it you will need to take some extra care in how you use the knife to avoid damage. As you work down the bevels to remove the microbevel, you will probably notice lots of machining marks and unevenness that were polished over- I usually keep working until these are gone, so the bevel is perfectly flat.
If you're set on using the guide, I'd start with it at 10 deg per side, and use the "sharpie trick" to see whether the angle is too low or too high. When the sharpie gets removed across the whole bevel at once, then the angle is matched.
To actually answer the question you asked, I would expect the included edge angle to be around 20 degrees (10 per side). This is based on measurements taken on two moras I own, a #1 & #2. I like to get rid of the microbevel, but without it you will need to take some extra care in how you use the knife to avoid damage. As you work down the bevels to remove the microbevel, you will probably notice lots of machining marks and unevenness that were polished over- I usually keep working until these are gone, so the bevel is perfectly flat.
If you're set on using the guide, I'd start with it at 10 deg per side, and use the "sharpie trick" to see whether the angle is too low or too high. When the sharpie gets removed across the whole bevel at once, then the angle is matched.
The Moras that I measured were very close to 10 degrees per side except my Bushcraft Triflex is @ 12.5 degrees per side. Can you set your stone against the bevel then lock the angle in? The problem I had with sharpening systems was from the end of the belly of the blade to the tip. If you are off by just a little, a couple of minutes of angle, you should be able to put your 'custom' bevel on your knife in a relatively short period of time with an agressive stone. Let us know how it works out.
Yep, scandi grind knive were meant to be held flat to the stone...no need or use for a guide. With that said, some people, including me, like to put microbevels on them (and this is traditional especially to Finland). Let me be clear here...MICRO bevel...if you can see it without holding it up to the light just right, it's too big...1mm is way too wide...like maybe .2mm tops.
I do it with a Sharpmaker set at 30 which tells me that the factory scandi bevel is way south of that. I'd concure that it is probably about 20 inclusive.
I do it with a Sharpmaker set at 30 which tells me that the factory scandi bevel is way south of that. I'd concure that it is probably about 20 inclusive.