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Mora and edge pro
- Thread starter mannysdad
- Start date
I haven't tried but it looks like it is possible, there is enough adjustment in the arm to let you lower the stone to the scandi bevel
Do you want a guided system to sharpen your mora? They are pretty easy to get sharp freehand and there are a lot of options for stones out there, especially if you don't want to invest in an edge pro you could save money by starting with something like a Norton combo India stone or a 1.2k king water stone
Do you want a guided system to sharpen your mora? They are pretty easy to get sharp freehand and there are a lot of options for stones out there, especially if you don't want to invest in an edge pro you could save money by starting with something like a Norton combo India stone or a 1.2k king water stone
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
- Messages
- 13,400
No reason why it can't be used. But, if resharpening as a true scandi, this means the entire width of the bevels would be re-ground; that would take a long while using smaller hones, as with the Edge Pro or other similar angle-guided setups. If just adding a smaller microbevel at the edge, that could more easily be done.
Ordinarily, a scandi's wide bevels ARE the guide for sharpening; in other words, just lay the bevels flush to a stone and grind away. It's the sort of sharpening that's more quickly done on a larger bench stone, due to the large amount of steel to be ground off those wide bevels. Attempting to grind the entire width of the bevels with smaller hones, as with the EP, would obviously be very slow-going if the knife is very dull. It's not quite so slow if the knife is regularly maintained fairly sharp; then it's easier to stay ahead of it without too much work. But an even moderately dull edge takes a while to fully resharpen to a crisp apex on a true scandi grind (meaning no secondary bevel or microbevel).
David
Ordinarily, a scandi's wide bevels ARE the guide for sharpening; in other words, just lay the bevels flush to a stone and grind away. It's the sort of sharpening that's more quickly done on a larger bench stone, due to the large amount of steel to be ground off those wide bevels. Attempting to grind the entire width of the bevels with smaller hones, as with the EP, would obviously be very slow-going if the knife is very dull. It's not quite so slow if the knife is regularly maintained fairly sharp; then it's easier to stay ahead of it without too much work. But an even moderately dull edge takes a while to fully resharpen to a crisp apex on a true scandi grind (meaning no secondary bevel or microbevel).
David
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2014
- Messages
- 693
Honestly, a $6 Norton Economy stone would work great for that. That's the beauty of Scandi grinds. Just lay that sucker flat and go to it.