mora field sharpening

Cliff Stamp

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Awhile ago I posted about sharpening an Endura on a piece of concrete :

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=381975

I recently did similar with a slim Mora after cutting some sod and digging :

mora_dig.jpg


The Mora was used to pry out the rocks, I just kept a grip on the blade itself to keep from overloading it, I had it pinched between the thumb and index finger. The soil was fairly rooty there, the knife was used to cut through and basically skinned the top layer of sod off.

The knife now had no fine cutting ability, a test cut on a piece of 1/2" poly (used and left outside not new), took 105 heavy slices. I looked for a semi-flat rock of no particular type, and found one which had broken to reveal a surface similar in size to the regular hockey puck stones.

It took about a minute pressing very hard to form a clean burr on both sides over the full width of the bevel. The rock was loading with metal from the blade, readily visible. The angle was then increased and a micro-bevel applied with a few passes finishing very light.

The knife would now shave on a draw, would slice the poly in four cuts, and could easily slice paper on a draw and went through thin plastics easily :

mora_paper.jpg


The rock shown was what was used to sharpen the knife. The Mora of course easily cut fine vegetation now as well :

mora_grasses.jpg


I spent about 15 minutes trying to obtain push cutting sharpness, but had little success. I dug another hole and reset the edge to the above shaving on a slice sharpness. It was later checked on light cotton and was 0.90 (5) cm under 200 grams of tension, which is about 1/3 of optimal for an x-coarse stone, 90 grit AO.

Under magnification the edge was fairly clean, but there was also deformation in places, when using the rock at times the edge seemed to be cut but at others it skipped along the stone. The level of abrasive was also fairly inconsistent, this might be improved if two similar rocks were ground together, what is most likely causing the less than optimal sharpness are large irregular bumps plowing into the edge which skips over it rather than be cut.

A note, before anyone concludes that this shows some inherent ease of sharpening of carbon steels, that is a myth, that rock will cut into stainless steels just as readily, and a 60+ hrc edge is still pretty soft compared to a rock so they can be honed just as readily. I don't live in Arkansas either, that is not a piece of sandstone, just a hard pebbly surface.

-Cliff
 
Here in Brazil it is a common sight to see produce guys sharpening their large lettuce knives on the sidewalk in front of the store.

Every rural home has "the rock" out back where knives get "sharpened". The edges produced by such crude means will cut for a while until they have to be freshly "ripped" against the rock or cement block.

I normally carry a small ceramic US military stone for touching up edges in the field. I use a mill file for the machetes. If I was stuck in the bush long term without a means to sharpen I think I would try to grind down a suitable rock on another larger stone. Maybe I'll even try this next time I get out. I would make a good project. Mac
 
In regards to the lettuce knives, Steve Bottorff posted awhile back about work he did in developing a system for field sharpening (company request) for similar blades. Time cutting into production costs, blade wear, fatigue/safety in use with an ultra-sharp blade vs one that is just roughly shaped.

It wasn't that long ago that I would have considered 0.90 (5) cm to be fairly sharp, and if you check around, paper slicing sharpness is in general well regarded. There is often too much emphasis on materials rather than method. Curious about edge retention though now that you mentioned it, I might run it vs the 90 grit AO and see what happens.

Too often people have poor edge retention on x-coarse edges because they have no expectations otherwise, or believe any of the various myths such as shaving means low durability, so it is common to see things like "I don't want my knives to shave.". It is usually just a case of burrs left on the edge.

pict said:
If I was stuck in the bush long term without a means to sharpen I think I would try to grind down a suitable rock on another larger stone.

You could also make pastes by grinding sand which could be used to make a loaded strop. I tend to actually carry sharpening equipment as well, it is just easier and faster with a file + coarse/fine stone.

-Cliff
 
Hi cliff

I use to take to stones and rub one against the other so you get.

1-flat surface to use as sharper stone.
2-stone dust that you can use as polish powder adding water or saliva:barf:

enjoy
 
At a basic level the man made sharpening stones are either the same rocks cut and shaped, or ground up and reshaped with a binder. It just makes it easier when someone else has done all that work for you and gives you a very uniform block, neatly squared and the abrasives well filtered so as to be consistent in grain. Rocks vary a lot in type, some are much easier to use for honing than others so being familiar with the local enviroment would be a plus as always.

-Cliff
 
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