I was sharpening my Mora knife on a DMT EF stone with some marker on the edge and none of the marker comes off. When I raise the angle slightly above the Scandi grind, I find that it does remove the marker. I can get the knife relatively sharp, but not hair shaving sharp on a 1200 grit DMT. The problem is with continued sharpening the Mora bevel seems to remain slightly rounded and this makes sharpening the edge difficult.
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Mora knife bevel feels rounded.
- Thread starter Whisper21
- Start date
what do you mean by rounded?
when I was sharpening my mora knives for the 1st time the way that they make the edge had it slightly concave. but I got rid of that on the one I use all the time. Are you talking about a concave or convex rounding?
If its the same as what I am describing then you need to drop to about 200 grit to remove enough metal to make the edge smooth and work back up to the 1200
when I was sharpening my mora knives for the 1st time the way that they make the edge had it slightly concave. but I got rid of that on the one I use all the time. Are you talking about a concave or convex rounding?
If its the same as what I am describing then you need to drop to about 200 grit to remove enough metal to make the edge smooth and work back up to the 1200
That's probably fine. You will need to really flatten that bevel out on what I am hoping is a perfectly flat stone. That first try on any scandi grind is always more laborious than subsequent efforts as long as YOU get it nice and flat. Once you get it flat you'll be ok.
Now lots of folks will do a micro bevel on a scandi for a few "maintenance cycles". Mora works well with the Sharpmaker at the 30 degree setting unless you have one of the new "robust" models where you'll need the 40 degree setting. After a few you flatten it out again. That's the beauty of the scandi. That full zero bevel that takes some time can be touched up in the field by adding a micro-bevel very quickly with whatever's to hand. The Sami people of the far north do it that way.
A lot of scandis are a little bit convexed due to the prevalence of belts grinders. The most pronounced I've seen are Roselli. With Mora you get quite a bit of variation because there's very little hand work at that price point and they are stamping them out with machines. Still love the Mora though.
Now lots of folks will do a micro bevel on a scandi for a few "maintenance cycles". Mora works well with the Sharpmaker at the 30 degree setting unless you have one of the new "robust" models where you'll need the 40 degree setting. After a few you flatten it out again. That's the beauty of the scandi. That full zero bevel that takes some time can be touched up in the field by adding a micro-bevel very quickly with whatever's to hand. The Sami people of the far north do it that way.
A lot of scandis are a little bit convexed due to the prevalence of belts grinders. The most pronounced I've seen are Roselli. With Mora you get quite a bit of variation because there's very little hand work at that price point and they are stamping them out with machines. Still love the Mora though.
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Whisper21, you may have a slight convex or a secondary bevel on that Mora. They often come with the latter. I have found that some scandi knives have a "dead flat" grind, some have a slight convex grind. I would say it is virtually impossible to grind/sharpen a scandi without any curvature (meaning convexity) freehand (without a jig). But is it even necessary at all is the question. If I sharpen my scandi very carefully, I still end up with a very slight convex bevel but this edge may even hold up better and it can be stropped easily. I also prefer the microbevel approach in the field (I use a very fine diamond stone (DMT 3 micron) for that), since it is very easy and versatile even when whet, cold etc. Once at home or "base camp", you can go back to the stones and turn it into a single bevel again. I do not however like diamond stones for the main scandi bevel anymore. I find that the Norton Crystolon oil stone works fantastic for this purpose!!