Mora S-1 Laminated

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Nov 1, 2004
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I've read a lot about laminated blades, and I got my first one about six years ago. What is a laminated blade? It's one layer of steel sandwiched between a different (most often softer) kind of steel. This gives the hardness and edge retention of the harder steel while still keeping the toughness and corrosion resistance of the softer steel. Laminated blades are costly for the most part. Call them what you want - San Mai, clad, 3L, triple layered - it's all laminated steel. Up until I found the Mora, I wasn't able to try out a laminated knife blade due to financial restrictions (the laminated knives I saw costed between $100 and $180). Then I found the Mora S-1, which is now consider to be the best laminated knife out there cost-wise. It's only $15 in most places. The model is S-1, and there are two versions out there: one made by Frosts' of Sweden and one made by Mora of Sweden (after Frosts' and Eriksson merged). I'll note the differences at the end of the review, but put an asterik (*) where there is a difference. The knife I'm reviewing is made by Frosts'. Here we go...

s-1.jpg


The Handle: The S-1 has a birch handle, and it's painted red (*1). It's 4" long (*2), including the 5/16" stainless steel throat. For me, this is a bit short for a handle. It fits well in the hand and covers all four fingers, but it still is a tad short for me. Another 1/2" on the butt would help out enormously. The butt is flat, and you can see the tang through it. It's a rat tang knife, so the handle is covering a 3/16" diameter rounded tang. No lanyard hole. The handle is oval-shaped, and it helps with grip. Unless you're really putting lots of torque on the knife, it's not going to roll in your hand. The birch is sanded smooth and uncoated. I was going to rub linseed oil in it, but decided it wasn't necessary. After six years of use, the handle is still tight, with no cracks or splintering. There's no guard provided, so you'll have to be careful if you do anything resembling a thrust or push. Even then, the handle is short enough that you can palm the butt and still use the knife normally. It's a humble design, but it's effective and not irritating.

The Blade: The S-1 has a laminated blade, as already established. Specifically, it's a center layer of high carbon sandwiched by two layers of softer low carbon. The center layer (the core) is 61-62 on the Rockwell scale.
Ragnar says: "This gives a finer edge without making the blade brittle, but the edge can be more fragile when cutting hard materials such as bone. Because the sides of the blade are softer steel the blade is less rigid, and will bend rather easily."
I find all of this to be true, except the bending part. Every laminated blade I've gotten has been as stiff as other non-laminated blades I've owned. The spine will ding more easily, but that's not the same as bending.
The blade is highly polished (*3) and is 3-14/16" long (*4) by 3/32" (just under 1/8") thick. It's 11/16" wide (*5) and sticks out a bit on both the spine end and the edge end. Specifically, it protrudes 1/16" from the top (spine) and 1-/16" from the bottom (edge). This isn't a huge deal, but the protruding spine makes it uncomfortable if you're used to having your thumb on the junction between the handle and blade. The protruding edge might nick you at first if you're not careful of if you have larger hands, but it's easily avoidable by choking back on the handle.
The blade is Scandanavian ground, and it produces a razor-sharp edge. You can see the lamination line if you look carefully; it's a slightly darker color than the outer layers and it's about 1/8" from the very edge. Cool.
The blade ends in a slight clip point, and is pretty nice as a piercer. It's almost like a needle. In terms of what's stamped on the blade, it has the Frosts' logo next to MADE IN SWEDEN over LAMINATED STEEL. (*6)
Overall, this is a very useful and sharp knife. The blade takes a very wicked edge and holds it through some real work, as long as you keep its limitations (don't go chopping hard wood with it) in mind. It's actually the perfect all-around knife for, well, cutting. Kitchen stuff is easy, as is butchering game. Woodworking is also easily done, and you can use this as a light camp knife. The traditional look of it won't likely scare anybody, and it doesn't come off as a super ninja death tool. Also, it's a GREAT laminated steel for less than 20 bucks!

The Sheath: The sheath sucks, but anybody familiar with Moras will know this. The first thing I do when I buy a Mora is buy a cheap leather sheath. The ones that comes with the S-1 is black plastic, and it's 6-1/4" long not counting the belt loop thingy. It has a design on the front and a ridiculous floppy belt loop. I've tried to use these, and they wear out in about a week of everyday carry. With the knife inserted the entire package is 8-1/2" long, leaving 2-1/4" of the handle sticking out. This is good because there is no way to retain the knife in the sheath; it's all friction. I like these pouch-style sheaths, but this one just sucks. I'm pretty sure the sheaths were designed to keep the blade (and you) protected if you decide to throw the knife in a toolbox or carry it in your pocket. (*7)

To conclude, the Mora S-1 is a great cutting tool. Yes, the sheath is horrible and the handle could be better, but the overall package is very nice for normal use. As I said before, it's a quality laminated steel for less than 20 bucks. Pick yourself out a cheapo leather sheath for $4 or $5 and you'll still be under $20; then you're set. The Swedes are making these great, quality knives with really nice steel at a price that nobody else can touch, so it behooves you to take full advantage. For the money, I really don't think you can get a better fixed blade.

Differences: Here are the differences between the Frosts' of Sweden S-1 (the very knife I'm reviewing) and the Mora of Sweden S-1 (which I also have in front of me)...
*1. The handle on the Mora of Sweden looks to be painted a darker shade of red than the handle on the Frosts'.
*2. The Frosts' has a 4" long handle, while the Mora of Sweden's is about 4-1/8" long.
*3. The Mora of Sweden's blades come with a shinier finish than the Frosts'.
*4. The Mora of Sweden's blade is 1/16" longer than the Frosts'.
*5. The Mora of Sweden's blade is 13/16" wide and sticks out 1/32" further on both the spine-end and the edge end.
*6. The Mora of Sweden has the Mora of Sweden logo, otherwise the stampings are the same.
*7. The Mora of Swden has three holes drilled into the back of the sheath, presumably for water drainage. The Frosts' sheaths have no holes.

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As an aside: for those of you with larger hands, Frosts' makes a larger laminated knife. It's called the S-2, and it's the exact same thing as the S-1 but larger (6/16" longer blade and 5/16" longer handle). I have two and they're great.
 
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Hi,

Another nice review! :thumbup: After owning an S1 for a while now, I no longer consider them a good for the money knife. They are just a flat out great knife!

I too have used mine in the kitchen and in the field for dressing and butchering game. Worked well on birds and held it's edge far better than a small Buck fixed blade for butchering a deer. My only complaint is I feel the blade is a bit thick. Which is to be expected of laminate knives. My personal preference is for a bit thinner slicer type blades.

Interestingly, my S1 is marked Mora of Sweden and so is the sheath. But it doesn't have the three drain holes like yours. I really need to get around to making a better sheath for it.

dalee
 
That was a good review of the most common swedich knife ever. For most of the 1900s this was the working mans knife. I realy dont like the new ones much because of the lack of handwork, but here its very easy to find good knifes from the 40ties to 70ties era with more time spent on each knife and also the oldfassioned sheat made of pressed paperfibres.
 
NJieporte, PM sent. Bosse

Mabye you can give me a sign if it arrived as it seams I cant trace it. Bosse
 
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Good reviewof current Mora. However, IMHO the vintage Mora by Carl Anderssen and Broderna Jonssen
were better. Better handles, sheaths, thicker blades, laminated, etc. Can still find them
in good condition on ebay (US or course, since can't sell knives on Ebay-England :-(

Rich S
 
NirreBosse; I sent you a reply.

Rich S; I had an Anderssen Mora once, and ended up giving it to somebody who needed it a lot more than I did. Great quality.
 
I do like this model as well, however, with one complaint. I find that the sharp exposed corner where the blade spine meets the handle is very hard on my thumb. It seems just the natural place where my thumb falls for push cutting and whittling.
Has anyone else found this?
Maybe I just need to toughen up my thumb:):thumbup:
 
I do like this model as well, however, with one complaint. I find that the sharp exposed corner where the blade spine meets the handle is very hard on my thumb. It seems just the natural place where my thumb falls for push cutting and whittling.
Has anyone else found this?
Maybe I just need to toughen up my thumb:):thumbup:

Or you could just use a file and some sandpaper to round it off so it's more comfortable. :)
 
All this talking about moras made me go fleamarketing. Although its not season for people to clean old houses or barns i found a few, not exelent shape, but good enough. Pinned tangs and wellpassed holks. One of the sheats was a little to small but all three sheats was pressed fibre and from the era 50ties- early 70ties. 10 cm mora Jönsson (reed nice handle but a little missused in the buttend), 8 cm mora Hallin (crack in the handle) and 7 cm erik frost Very nize, vill give it to my 3 year old tonight, I belive he will be real happy. I will now look at 2 other major fleamarkets and my goal is 10 good knifes within a week.

Bosse
 
All this talking about moras made me go fleamarketing. Although its not season for people to clean old houses or barns i found a few, not exelent shape, but good enough. Pinned tangs and wellpassed holks. One of the sheats was a little to small but all three sheats was pressed fibre and from the era 50ties- early 70ties. 10 cm mora Jönsson (reed nice handle but a little missused in the buttend), 8 cm mora Hallin (crack in the handle) and 7 cm erik frost Very nize, vill give it to my 3 year old tonight, I belive he will be real happy. I will now look at 2 other major fleamarkets and my goal is 10 good knifes within a week.

Bosse

Good luck with the hunt Bosse:thumbup:
 
My only complaint is I feel the blade is a bit thick. Which is to be expected of laminate knives. My personal preference is for a bit thinner slicer type blades.

dalee
I find the thickness about right, but the grind too thick. If you have the patience to take the saber grind down to a full flat grind, they really become slicing monsters!
 
The form of the sheat is made that way that the knife can be carried bouth on right and left side of the body.
This is a knife developed for real hardworking people. In sweden in older days working men often wore wool-bibs as throusers. The belt was often around the waist without beltloops so they could carry the knife different places all around the body.
For example a log/woodworker don,t want a knife on the right side of body in the way for the ax or later the chainsaw and a harvester dont want it in the way shytle.

Most old men in my childhood environment carried their moras in the middle of the back so they could reach the knife with bouth hands. Traditional the sheat was made of paperfibres but treated to last as good as lether. The beltloop was from lether and conekted with metall. Even the early plastic sheats was of much better quality and fit for the knife and also a little nicer to look at.

I hope we in the future can see piktures of sheats from different eras.

Bosse
 
I find the thickness about right, but the grind too thick. If you have the patience to take the saber grind down to a full flat grind, they really become slicing monsters!

Hi,

I agree with the thick grind. But I think if I where to do a full flat grind on it. It would possibly weaken the blade during flexing by exposing too much of the full hard core. The softer laminate sides are supposed to protect the hard core from cracking while allowing some flex.

The thinner plain carbon steel blades are drawn back a bit more to allow them to withstand cracking better during flexing. I don't know, maybe I'm not seeing your statement quit right either.

Besides, it gives me an opportunity to get another More!

dalee
 
Yeah, I don't know how much a full flat would bring the laminate line up the blade. You'd probably have to have a thinner core and thicker sides, perhaps it would be best to do it to a regular blade - or one of the HSS 64-65 HRC ones that Ragnar sells...
 
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