Mora sharpening.

j man

j man

Joined
Aug 1, 2010
Messages
637
I would like to know if a bevel grind is any good for Mora 840mg.

Or should i just sharpen the scandi edge way?

Would bevel be a stronger edge?
 
you can put on a second edge bevel if you wish but at some stage you will have to work on that large main bevel. Anyway. if you work on the main Scandi grind freehand on a stone it is almost inevitable that you will form a micro-convex on the edge - unless you have exceptional sharpening skills. Not a problem and in fact a convexed Scandi will perform very well and providing you keep close to maintaining the original angles, the convexed edge will add strength without degrading cutting performance. Over time. most hand sharpened Scandi's end up convexed which IMO is the better grind anyway

BTW - I think you will find that the so-called flat Scandi grind is in fact slightly hollow on the Moras
 
+1 to what antonio said. you might want to consider a convex edge if the factory edge isnt working out for you. if you chip a convex edge which is stronger, all you have to do is remove the chip and resharpen the edge. chip a scandi and you have to work down the entire blade to repair the edge.
 
richard j said:
+1 to what antonio said. you might want to consider a convex edge if the factory edge isnt working out for you. if you chip a convex edge which is stronger, all you have to do is remove the chip and resharpen the edge. chip a scandi and you have to work down the entire blade to repair the edge.
Click to expand...

Both sound like the same procedure to me richard j. The knife still has to be re-sharpened until the edge is straight. I guess I don't understand.
 
its going to take longer to take the chip out of a scandi since you work down the entire flat side of the blade. chip a convex edge and you just have to take out the chip and resharpen the edge which wont take that long since there is less area to do.
 
yep but imho convexing a scandi is only worth it if you make the convex grind/bevel as wide as the flat bevel/grind of the original scandi geometry. i see no point in convexing only the very edge and leaving the flat grind above.
 
I split the difference. I sharpen flat scandi, leaning a little heavy toward the edge rather than the shoulder...sometimes I just lay it flat on. They I like to create a very micro micro-bevel with a few passes on a fine ceramic rod and then a green compound strop. You have to hold the thing up to the light just right to see my micros.

My Rosellis are a very large diameter convex from the factory and I do the same thing with them, maintain a micro bevel after holding as acute as I can and still raise a burr. I will eventually have to hold hard up on the shoulder on those but that's a ways off.
 
Everyone is right about the edge eventually changing to a slightly convex type after sharpening. I used to sharpen by laying flat on the bevel (still do sometimes) but to be honest, now I take the fast way out. The thinner bladed (.79 thickness) knives will fit in my Chefs Choice Pronto 464 manual sharpener as it comes from the factory. After you set the edge, light passes through the fine side bring them right back to shaving sharpness. Puts a micro-bevel on the blade. I actually took my Pronto apart and made the slots in the plastic a bit wider to take thicker blades, that's how much I like it. Now it'll take blades a hair thicker than .100 (most of my knives). I haven't noticed any difference at all in cutting and slicing ability, and it takes just seconds to touch them up now.
 
Thanks Guys.
I had a go just sharpening the skandi way. came out great. Was not as hard as i thought. I did it free hand so it could have a micro bevel, but it is very sharp. :thumbup:
 
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