Mora vs Mora...

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oldschooljeep48

Joined
Aug 13, 2009
Messages
56
So i have been looking at the Mora line of knives and I cant seem to find an answer.

What is the difference between the Mora 2000 or 2010 and all the rest of the $8-$12 knives? Now I know each knife is slightly diffrent, but in general, why are those 2 models three times as much?

Are they worh it?
 
The difference lies in the grind. The base is a Scandinavian grind like most Mora's, but the tip thins out into a more conventional double-bevel grind. :)
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
The difference lies in the grind. The base is a Scandinavian grind like most Mora's, but the tip thins out into a more conventional double-bevel grind. :)
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So most Moras are ground on one side and the 2000 and 2010 are ground on both sides? Doesnt sound like 3x as good.... Does it realy make a diffrence?
 
No, I mean that it's done with a secondary bevel to your cutting edge. Like a normal knife. The first bevel is the primary bevel that influences your blade geometry. The secondary bevel is the bevel of the actual cutting edge. A Scandinavian grind has just a primary bevel that goes all the way to the edge, with no secondary bevel. Both of these have the bevels on both sides.

The 2k and 2010 are a combination of these two. The base of the blade is a Scandinavian grind (primary bevel going all the way to the edge) while the tip region is a double bevel flat grind (primary bevel with cutting edge as secondary bevel). :)
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
No, I mean that it's done with a secondary bevel to your cutting edge. Like a normal knife. The first bevel is the primary bevel that influences your blade geometry. The secondary bevel is the bevel of the actual cutting edge. A Scandinavian grind has just a primary bevel that goes all the way to the edge, with no secondary bevel. Both of these have the bevels on both sides.

The 2k and 2010 are a combination of these two. The base of the blade is a Scandinavian grind (primary bevel going all the way to the edge) while the tip region is a double bevel flat grind (primary bevel with cutting edge as secondary bevel). :)
Click to expand...

Ok thanks for clearing that up. Sorry im such a NOOB!

So what are the advantages and dissadvantages of the two types?

Im guessing the full Scandinavian grind is a better slicer but weaker, and the 2k and 2010 are slightly stronger blades being thicker until the secondary grind?
 
more the opposite. If you look at a photograph of the knife you can see that the Scandinavian portion (the base of the blade) there is more supporting material to the blade. :)
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
more the opposite. If you look at a photograph of the knife you can see that the Scandinavian portion (the base of the blade) there is more supporting material to the blade. :)
Click to expand...

Hmmm, so why would I want to spend $30 on the 2k when the other $10 models are stronger and slice better? There has to be some advantage or benefit to make the 2000/2010 more expensive...
 
Well, the military versions are larger, have a more robust tang (for rougher military use I guess) and I would bet the thinner tip is nice for any stabbing tasks. IMO? Get the classic red wooden handle and carbon steel blade version, the 2010 looks nice but I prefer the traditional style mora.
 
The thinner point of the 2k/2010 WILL slice better, and perform better when doing detail work. Like I said, pretty much just reverse your original guess.

Use the base for whittling, etc. Use the end for slicing and fine work. :)
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
The thinner point of the 2k/2010 WILL slice better, and perform better when doing detail work. Like I said, pretty much just reverse your original guess.

Use the base for whittling, etc. Use the end for slicing and fine work. :)
Click to expand...

Yes, I understand. But why is it $30 vs $10? A sharper point, thats it?
 
Javelin said:
Well, the military versions are larger, have a more robust tang (for rougher military use I guess) and I would bet the thinner tip is nice for any stabbing tasks. IMO? Get the classic red wooden handle and carbon steel blade version, the 2010 looks nice but I prefer the traditional style mora.
Click to expand...

By robust tang, do you mean in the handle? when I looked at them on the web, the thickness was the same, most are at .098. The blade shape doesnt look to be THAT much diffrent from the rest.

Im not tring to stir anything up or say that the 2k/2010 isnt worh it, im just tring to find what makes them diffrent. What makes the 2k/2010 worth 3x as much as the majority of the other morras? I would like to get one but I cant see spending $30 when it looks like an almost identical item is available for only $10.
 
The additional grinding process and longer tang simply cost more to produce. :)

If you can't justify the extra expense don't bother with it, but a large number of folks on the boards here have still found it a bargain in spite of the extra pocket change. ;)
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
The additional grinding process and longer tang simply cost more to produce. :)
Click to expand...

That coupled with "and it is much stronger than the other models" would have worked for me from the begning. Thats what I was looking for; here is why it is more - x..., y..., z..., and its worth it because its better.

FortyTwoBlades, I was starting to think you were a politician, answering my questions...:confused: but not really at the same time. ;)
 
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