Morakniv 2000

G

Gallen1119

Joined
Sep 26, 2013
Messages
7
So I just picked up a Morakniv 2000. I know it's a pretty inexpensive, basic knife, but it's my first Mora, and I have to say I'm liking it quite a bit. It likely won't get as much use as my Spyderco Chaparrel EDC, but I see myself taking this along pretty frequently. Thick blade, big handle, light weight - should be handy when backpacking, around the house, or piddling in the garage. Factory edge looks/feels pretty decent, but I'm sure it could be improved a bit. With the lower investment, mods are not out of the question. In fact, it's not if, but when. The grind on this is new to me and will take a little research.

What are the general thoughts? Should I put a microbevel on it out of the box? Use it stock for a while, just cleaning up the factory edge? Was thinking about a patina, but if my reading is correct, that is maybe not possible with the stainless blade. Be gentle, I'm a bit of a noob...
 
Mora's are sweet. I use a Companion HD around the house and garden.

Use the factory edge for a while to see how it performs. You may be surprised. And you can always put your edge on it later.

Stainless won't develop a patina.
 
No Patina on stain-less.

I like the zero grind.

So sharp.

If you use your knives hard, a micro bevel would'nt hurt.
 
An interesting fact about that knife is the weird front grind was designed to spread pate and such on bread.This according to the Mora rep at Smoky Mtn. Knife Works when Moose asked her about its purpose.
 
Well, it is a survival/utility knife for an armed force that would much rather take pot-shots from the woods than get close and dirty. once you get used to chopping with the front section, its not bad for food prep.

I'd keep it zero, at least for now, the blade can handle it well. you may want to also experiment with microing just the scandi part, or the front, depending on which part you end up using harder. probably the scandi section.

As far as other "mods" to think about, convexing is an option, and Squaring the spine for a firesteel is worth doing. heck, you could even drill in a lanyard hole!
 
Mora 2000 normally has a micro edge. It is vey small, perhaps you need to have a loupe to se it.

The blade are thick where you use most force - and thinner where you use less force, and the thinner part penetrates most material better. you can compare it with a tappered blade, but here they have made the same thing in 2 steps :)

Thomas
 
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