I have read thru various threads on this topic and still fail to detect a consensus. I recently received a Companion. I looked over the edge grind thru a 40x loupe and noticed that there is in fact a very small secondary micro bevel on the blade. I have also heard that the steel will not in fact support a true scandi grind. This makes sense to me, given what I have now discovered. If true, how do you approach re-sharpening? My instincts tell me to follow the flat grind on a stone then finish with a micro bevel using a fine stone or a strop. Does this make sense? The micro bevel is exceedingly small and it will be a real pain in the rear end to try to follow that angle on a stone. What say the collective wisdom here???
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Morakniv Companion-Edge Maintenance
- Thread starter Greggy
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I convexed one of mine by using a dished out King K80. That seems to create a more sturdy edge that can handle a bit more abuse.
Another one I used a flat DMT plate to create a full scandi. It is now really nice at finer details.
On another I just make a few swipes on a Diafold to maintain a micro-bevel.
The question you may have to ask yourself is, what do you plan to use the knife for?
Another one I used a flat DMT plate to create a full scandi. It is now really nice at finer details.
On another I just make a few swipes on a Diafold to maintain a micro-bevel.
The question you may have to ask yourself is, what do you plan to use the knife for?
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I’d say you instincts are correct, OP.
Maintaining the factory edge will require you to first sharpen the bevel to the apex and then apply a new micro bevel.
Maintaining the factory edge will require you to first sharpen the bevel to the apex and then apply a new micro bevel.
Depends on how you use the knife. Having a microbevel will give you a slightly more robust edge, but won't be quite as good for fine carving. It's not a bad idea, but it's a small compromise.
If you go that way, you will have to eventually sharpen the scandi bevel then reapply the micro bevel either way. If you keep touching up the micro bevel, you will effectively end up with a sabre grind and secondary bevel anyway.
There are definite pro's and con's to scandi vs scandi/micro bevel. I don't agree that 12C27 cannot work with a scandi grind, but as I said it depends how hard you use you knife.
If you go that way, you will have to eventually sharpen the scandi bevel then reapply the micro bevel either way. If you keep touching up the micro bevel, you will effectively end up with a sabre grind and secondary bevel anyway.
There are definite pro's and con's to scandi vs scandi/micro bevel. I don't agree that 12C27 cannot work with a scandi grind, but as I said it depends how hard you use you knife.
More info here:
www.bladeforums.com
Tormek Scandi grinds
Specifically for scandi grinds on Mora's etc i designed and had this made a while back. I call it a "limiter block", as it limits your range of movements while sharpening guided on the Tormek to only back & forth and up & down (for the point area) The block can slide along the steel guide rod...
www.bladeforums.com
Good info. This knife will be used for light duty only. I will use it to whittle sticks into hot dog sticks at my son's fire pit, and same or similar at my good friend's property with bonfire pit. Basic wood carving tasks. Etc. Nothing too heavy. I think I will maintain the micro bevel as mentioned above. Looking forward to working with this knife.
I saw that knife on ebay, listed as lightly used, near minty.
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I would agree with everything chalby stated above. All same points I would make (including his last sentence ;-) .
I own a few Mora fixed, and for the most part run each with a Scandi bevel to the apex. One of first things I do with a Mora I plan to use/keep is flat grind the bevels. I find NO valid application for a tool with a "Scandi" grind that also has an additional Secondary Bevel. If a knife that has purposely been designed around a Scandi grind will not support the work, it is a simple process to decrease the geometry to the point the edge is supported. This process is part of each new blade relationship (IMHO) to the work expected (grind it thin to the point will not support the actual work, then make a little stronger). Making any geometry stronger is typically much easier than making it more acute. How it is made "stronger" is personal preference (increase primary bevel angle(s), Scandi-Vex, etc.). I prefer the bevel to the edge to be flat for various reasons, based on how I use my tools.
Bigfattyt
Gold Member
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My Mora Companion in stainless will not support the factory edge when making shavings out if dry pine. I sharpened it flat at factory edge angle, and it was silly sharp...but the edge folded on the first cut. Rinse and repeat several times. So I was forced to add a steeper micro bevel.
You gotta do what you gotta do, but I'm surprised to read that. I have several knives in 12C27 from Frosts Mora's to Eka folders. The Frosts Mora's are my thinnest knives in this steel and have used it on a lot harder wood than pine and rarely have any issue with a scandi.
This is nothing new, and you might just be overthinking it. There's a 2017 interview on youtube with the production head at Morakniv where he talks about micro bevels. I believe he actually says plainly that the simple act of stropping will be sufficient to establish a suitable micro bevel, and that's the way it's supposed to be. It's been a while since I watched it, but I'm pretty sure that's what he says, and anyway it makes perfect sense when you think about it because the edge would simply be too weak without a micro bevel to strengthen it.
I'm not sure whether you are addressing me, so ignore this if that is not the case, but overthinking what? I said I don't have issues with a scandi edge, it works well for me with this steel.
I do generally use a strop as a finishing step to sharpening, so there is that, but I wouldn't consider it a micro-bevel. If anything it would micro-convex the edge which wouldn't strengthen the edge massively IMO, at least not with the amount of stropping I would do to finish sharpening.
What I would recommend though is that everyone should just see what works and what doesn't in their own experience and not just assume that because someone said something on a forum it is gospel. Try different things and form your own opinion.
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100%
One example: if a Scandi will not support the edge make the Scandi bevel stronger by simply increasing the edge bevel angle by a ~degree (as I mentioned above). I say this 'assuming' a user would first test a knife/tool through at least a couple sharpening to effectively remove fatigued steel to make sure any issues are understood. Why create an entirely new geometry by adding additional bevels ... (effectively creating a Saber grind).
Most times, I 'assume' too much. If a user buys a Scandi ground knife and decides (for what ever reason) to change it ... please go right ahead
I come from a carpentry background, and my wood-chisels DO NOT wear secondary's for reasons I have determined through personal use/application. What performance characteristics I appreciate in using a good wood-chisel are much the same that I expect from any Scandi ground blade. On the other hand, chisels I use for cutting metal DO wear secondary bevels (but that is a VERY different application).