Moras and fire

T

Tacticalpyro

Joined
Oct 25, 2014
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32
Hello knife community, i am going to buy my first mora soon.I really want the mora black,but its a bit out of my price range so i might have to stick with the companion.What is the difference between the two? Also,I need a good fire starter. Any suggestions for a cheap one?(Im just getting into knives and bushcraft).
 
Light my fire is the only other Mora with a 90° spine for fire striking. Keep an eye out on eBay for deals on Bushcrafts - both carbon and stainless are great knives. Light My Fire is a thinner blade.
 
Sounds like you need to spend you money wisely. For $35, you can have a Mora and a swedish firesteel, and have money left over for sharpening equipment.

Get the Mora Companion MG. I see it right now for free shipping on the popular auction site for under $13. A Light My Fire scout is shipped to your door for under $9. Now, you can practice making fires with found tinders, carve feather sticks, use fat wood... With the rest of the money, get a good quality mill file or sharpening stone. You can use it to sharpen axes, machetes, but the first thing you will do is square up the spine of your Mora so you can strike firesteel with it.

I also recommend that you get a Fiskars hatchet and learn how to use it by reading and watching youtube videos. That's how I learned. The Mora and Fiskars are entry-level tools, but they will serve you well. If and when you wear them out, you can move on to quality steel like Gransfors Bruks and custom bushcrafters.
 
My understanding is that the Mora bushcraft black and 2000 as well as the light my fire models have squared spines. I thought it was just the cheaper companion series that had the rounded spines. I could be off on that, but that's what I think I've heard around here and various other places.

Also, its worth checking the marttiini timberjack. Its very similar to the moras, but made in Finland. I'm not sure if the spine is squared though, perhaps someone else knows.
 
The Mora Bushcraft Orange has a 90 degree spine and is under $30 in the Knifeworks link posted above. It's the same as the Black, but in stainless.
 
OP, it takes literally 2 minutes with a file or coarse stone to put a square spine on a knife. I've done that to half a dozen knives I own. There is no need to pay more than double for this feature.

One more thing, don't pay more for the same knife just because it has "bushcraft" in the name. It's the same steel, same grind, same 3/4 tang, same plastic handle. The great thing about a Mora is the excellent value you get for $10-$15. Pay $40 for one, and you are not getting much more performance, and for that money, there are other options to consider.
 
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As a reference - Knifeworks' line of Moras - one of these should fit your budget ...

Mora Companion HD ~$16 (this is the one I use, Black&Orange)
Mora Bushcraft Orange ~$28
Mora Bushcraft Heavy ~$38
Mora Bushcraft Black ~54

Add a Light-My-Fire Fire Steel ~$13 and you're all set.
 
The Bushcraft Black also has a taller blade with a slightly different shape. While the tang is the same length, it is also a touch wider and taller than standard blades... not a big difference but its there. The handle is teh same material, rubberized coating over epoxied plastic, but a different shape and contour as well.

If you want a Mora knife AND a firesteel, this is a no brainer: http://www.knifeworks.com/lightmyfireswedishfireknifeblack.aspx#.VGtBfvnF-Sp

Otherwise, just start off with standard Companion MG for $13. See how you like it, if at all.. move on from there. There is no rule that says you can only have one or two knives in your lifetime.
 
dogstar said:
OP, it takes literally 2 minutes with a file or coarse stone to put a square spine on a knife. I've done that to half a dozen knives I own. There is no need to pay more than double for this feature.

One more thing, don't pay more for the same knife just because it has "bushcraft" in the name. It's the same steel, same grind, same 3/4 tang, same plastic handle. The great thing about a Mora is the excellent value you get for $10-$15. Pay $40 for one, and you are not getting much more performance, and for that money, there are other options to consider.
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Absolutely! Even easier if you have a belt sander. Plus, a SAK awl may be the ideal striker. It works very well.
 
I never understood why someone would pay more for the Mora Orange or Black until I held one. It's so much more comfortable in my hand. The blade is also thicker and while I don't plan on using the 90 degree spine with a rod it's nice that it's there. I own both and prefer my Orange. I like that it's stainless and the color makes it easy to find.
 
Fuori said:
I never understood why someone would pay more for the Mora Orange or Black until I held one. It's so much more comfortable in my hand. The blade is also thicker and while I don't plan on using the 90 degree spine with a rod it's nice that it's there. I own both and prefer my Orange. I like that it's stainless and the color makes it easy to find.
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Totally agree...
 
austexjg said:
2000 has a rounded spine, not 90°.
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Thanks for the heads up :D.

skyhorse said:
I use the awl on my Vic Farmer all the time as a striker.:thumbup:
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Same here actually, but I also find the 90 degree spine useful for other things (mostly smoothing whittled/carved wood, and making fine shavings for firestarting).

Personally I'd go with a companion for $15, and then sand/file the spine square, but thats just me.
 
ocnLogan said:
Thanks for the heads up :D.



Same here actually, but I also find the 90 degree spine useful for other things (mostly smoothing whittled/carved wood, and making fine shavings for firestarting).

Personally I'd go with a companion for $15, and then sand/file the spine square, but thats just me.
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Great knife as well. The Vic Farmer is my favorite because of the exellent saw.Honestly any back country explorer is gonna be fine with a Mora, Victorinox and knowledge to use them imho.
 
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Is the Saw on the Farmer you mentioned any different than on others like the Fieldmaster?
 
You might also bail on the idea of a "manufactured" fire steel and just find a few ferro rod blanks for the same money. It would be wise to fix a permanent handle knobbie on 'em for a lanyard of course, which is an added step. But it can be done pretty easily.
 
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