Moras and rust

M

mjdukefan23

Joined
Aug 24, 2007
Messages
98
Im noticing that my mora 780 is starting to rust. I try to keep it real dry but I dont oil it. I was wondering if anyone else has had problems with carbon moras and rust. And also Im looking to buy a new mora and was wondering about the stainless steel ones such as the 545. Is this one and all stainless moras made of Sandvik 12C27?
 
The stainless Moras are 12C27 and will take and hold a good edge. I have had a slight bit of rust on a carbon Mora at the juncture of the blade and handle (where I didn't see it right away) but it cleaned off easily. I do hit it with a bit of food-grade mineral oil from time to time. Using the oil to excess leaves some inside the plastic sheath ... which is good. :)
 
Why not simply oil your carbon steel knives from time to time? If you don't like oil, use a paste wax that's made for fine cars.
 
I personally think many of us obsess too much over rust on carbon steel knives. A good controlled oxidation finish helps control rust. Patina is what it is called. I know that modern thinking is that shiney is good, but good carbon cutlery steel has always been tops in my book and it does not have to shine to work well.

Codger
 
Codger_64 said:
I personally think many of us obsess too much over rust on carbon steel knives. A good controlled oxidation finish helps control rust. Patina is what it is called. I know that modern thinking is that shiney is good, but good carbon cutlery steel has always been tops in my book and it does not have to shine to work well.

Codger
Click to expand...

AMEN, BROTHER!!! You told it right. :thumbup:
 
Codger_64 said:
I personally think many of us obsess too much over rust on carbon steel knives. A good controlled oxidation finish helps control rust. Patina is what it is called. I know that modern thinking is that shiney is good, but good carbon cutlery steel has always been tops in my book and it does not have to shine to work well.

Codger
Click to expand...

thanks, Im soaking the knife in vinegar now
 
I actually enjoy the look of a well cared for blade with a nice gray patina! It tells me that this is a knife that has been used and taken care of...

Tom
 
Patina is fine. My carbon Scandis and Opinels all develop it quickly, especially since I use them on food. But if you saw the rust I did on the Swedish Army Knife clipper, you'd realize it was not patina.
 
I took my mora #510 salt water fishing this year and didn't see a spot of rust. I just dried it and put some oil on it when I got home and it was fine.

It did already have a patina started so that might have helped.

Just use canola, vegatable, or olive oil. They are food safe, and most likely you already have one of them on hand. Just put some on when you know you won't be using it for a while.
 
one of my carbon moras did start to rust- the orange sort.
I cleaned it off with some barkeepers friend, then lightly oiled it, the patina around the rust spots remained, and is starting to develop more also.
 
Hey Guys..

Stingray writes:

"Just use canola, vegatable, or olive oil. They are food safe, and most likely you already have one of them on hand. Just put some on when you know you won't be using it for a while."

The only problem with that, is in aftermarket sheaths such as mine with tighter tolernces, these types of oils tend to get sticky and Gum up as they dry out.

This sticky residue holds and traps dirt, grit and the like,, which in time can scratch the knife..No problem if it's a User knife and scratching isn't a huge issue...

An old Scout leader taught me to use vegi oil to lube the leather seals on Pumper type lanterns and stoves....

Worst thing you can do to this type of gear as it gums up everything and actually makes it worse over time..

In a pinch Ok,, just not long term...

ttyle

Eric
O/ST
 
Well, what's the point of having a knife if you don't use it?

Normark is probably right, but I haven't really noticed any problems.

I think for a cheap knife like a Mora, It's a non-issue. I'm not really too worried about scratching a $9 knife.

Is there another food safe oil that you would suggest Normark? For those that are worried about sticky oil and dirt in there sheaths.
 
I usually don't have much of a problem with rust,used to use more hi tec stuff but a nice light coat of mineral oil seems to work just fine.
 
Mineral oil works well. On my wood handled Mora's, I followed the advice of another forumite. I stood it up on it's butt, and gave it a good squirt of WD 40 down into the handle until it leaked out of the butt. I let it stand over night, then sealed the handle up with silicone caulk.

Rust on the blade is easily dealt with. Rust inside the handle of a hidden tang knife is a little more insidious...
 
I use mineral oil.
A fat drop on each side of the blade. That gets rubbed (carefully!) all over the blade and then wiped off with a rag or paper towel.
The knife doesn't have to be slimed in oil to be protected.

Patina is a good thing as well.

As to the stainless...Recently, I fished in the surf for 4 consecutive mornings and evenings, Swedish Army knife worn on my belt over my waders and rain top. Not a spec of rust. No rinsing, wiping or care. Left the belt and bag out in the sun in the morning and on the floor of the motel room in the evening.
Did the same thing last year, unpacked it a week later and there was a nail head sized orange spot on the blade. That came off with WD40 and a rag.
I don't think you have to worry about the 12C27 :D
 
I've never had any rust on my carbon or stainless Mora's. I have had a very nice patina develop on my carbon clippers, but my two Triflex knives haven't really had much of one form. They have changed color on some parts and have a bluish-greenish cloud on them. I guess that is the patina, it is just a little weird looking. I can't really describe it, but it looks pretty cool.
 
My 510 seems to be holding up well. I did a vinegar patina a while back per thread suggestions. Also tried it with the 780, but got some rust on it and spotty patina after storage. I searched for "oil" or "olive oil" or "vegetable oil" and found a big thread on knife oils from last year (The ultimate oil thread or something). The consensus I think was to store carbon steel with a light coating of olive oil and hopefully the rust won't spread anymore (I want to keep it food grade, but there were all kinds of oil suggestions). Maybe I'll try some bartenders friend scrub on the 780 to get the rust off.
1573714273_e75f8d0ad6_o.jpg
 
My dads Opinel has a serious patina, which I like. My carbon Mora had some serious rust spots, but after subbing them off with WD40, it only shows some patina spots. Which I think gives the knife charcter.

I recently discovered the fantastic benefits of Beeswax melted together with some olive oil. It's a fantastic wax for foodsafe coating on blades. Which I also use on my more precious users.

Normark, I don't see problems with your sheaths at all. Just rinse them out with hot water and detergent, and use a blowdryer on low (LOW) heat. They are made very well, so I don't expect problems

CZ
 
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