More Edgepro Questions

hunter s thompson

hunter s thompson

Joined
Oct 17, 2007
Messages
1,530
Let me preface my questions by saying I have used the search function and have not found the answers to my questions, so please forgive me for starting another Edgepro discussion. I am not the greatest freehand sharpener in the world, but I am passable, I am looking into an Edgepro Apex too up my sharpening game. I have also watched a ton of Youtube videos ( some by a few of the Edgepro experts on Blade Forums), and they still haven't answered my questions fully, So I have come here seeking your knowledge. My questions are:

1. I am a collector and user of slip joint knives will the Edgepro sharpen these fairly easy, without a lot of futzing around? it seems to me that most of the examples I see for how well the machine works are on One hand openers and fixed blade knives which I have no interest in.

2. Since I am using mostly carbon steel and fairly simple stainless steels, will the stock Edgepro stones meet my needs? I would like too have sharp knives with nice even grinds. I understand the Chosera and Shapton stones are fantastic but I am trying too go with the smallest up front layout of cash.

3. I am looking at the Apex 3 or 4 are the polishing tapes worth the upgrade? I am not looking for a mirror polish. Also with the knives I am sharpening is it neccessary to even go up as high as 1000 grit?

4. Do I need to soak the stones before use? I see conflicting advice on this, some videos seem to suggest you do and others seem to only use the
water bottle to squirt water on the stones during use.

5. The Apex 3 and 4 both come with stones ranging from 120 to !000 grit, but after some research it seems that the grits are equivelant to much higher grit water stones, for example it seems the 600 grit Edgepro stone is equal to a 5000 grit waterstone? Is it because the Edgepro stone are made up of a different material than waterstones?

Thank you for your time and your help.
 
I can't answer most of your questions.

I'll say this though. On my clone, the only problem that I've had on my GEC slipjoint is a bevel that is wider in some areas. This is not the fault of the sharpener though. The actual blade is (was, I re-ground it flat) was not perfectly flat. That caused the wider (or shorter) bevel in some areas. It should get you what you're after though.

With my silicone carbide EP brand stone I used mineral oil. This caused the stone to separate from the aluminum plate. No biggie (I re attached it with better glue), but now use water anyway as it seems to work well.

Slipjoints are just like any other blade, only (usually) smaller. I don't have any issues.

The stones that come with it *should* be great for carbon steel. It's when you use knives with high vanadium/wear resistance that you might need to look at upgrading your stones. So long as you aren't searching for the ultimate edge refinement you should be gtg.
 
My experience with an EP Apex is limited to a very brief period when I got to try one out recently. My interest likewise is in traditional knives, and of course they tend to be small compared to modern folders and fixed blades. Although I've been very happy with my Work Sharp, and later my WS Ken Onion, as well as my Sharpmaker and various strops, I am curious about other sharpening methods and I bought an EP Apex on the trade forum not long ago to give it a try.

I only gave the EP a very brief trial, but my small slippies were a challenge. When I saw that the EP creator, Ben Dale, recommends making "riser blocks" for use with small blades on the EP: http://www.edgeproinc.com/sharpen-riser-blocks-21.html, I admit my reaction was that this is a pretty expensive rig, and to then have to cut out a series of individual wood blocks in order for it to work well with small blades....? I decided not to pursue it, for now anyway, and sold the EP.

I know the EP has a great many loyal fans, including some of the most accomplished sharpeners on the forum, and is undoubtedly a very fine and sophisticated tool. Moreover, I am a novice sharpener and, as I said, only gave the EP a brief try, so I am really not in a position to criticize it. But I am curious as to how others who use the EP with small slippies have fared, and as to any tips they can share.

Thanks,

Andrew
 
Interesting. I can't figure out what the block is used for. I just go with (or without, depending on my needs) the guide clip if the spine is square and don't have an issue, even with a quickly dropping wharncliffe.

Maybe I can snap some pics.
 
Sorry for the crap pics, but this is the light is have right now.

Again, not sure what the riser block is needed for?

IMAG1938_zpsf373f12b.jpg


IMAG1939_zpscf297913.jpg


IMAG1940_zps969bc366.jpg


IMAG1943_zps7ef84678.jpg
 
I have never seen or used an EP, but curious to know how on those small knives (not the wharnie) you sharpen the curve around the tip where the stone can't reach?

edit: ahh I see, that's what the riser block is for. I have to agree with AF Austin, sticking bits of wood together with painters tape does seem a very imprecise solution. If that's the only option, I don't think I would buy one if I had mainly small knives to sharpen.
 
Last edited:
You move the blade around on the table with this sharpener. In the case of blade tips, pull the blade back so the belly/tip is in the same position as the rest of the edge.

If/when your stone is at an angle that interferes with the guide clip remove it.

The guide (the steel plate on top of the table that moves back and forth) can occasionally be more of a hindrance than a help for me when doing touch ups. In that case (rarely) I've had an easier time just moving it back and going without it all together. It probably would be difficult not using the guide when heavily using a stone/reprofiling, but you have good clearance with the clip removed. In the last pic you can see how the clip can interfere with the stone, but I've never had to do more than remove it.

The sharpener is pretty versatile and flexible. Your technique will make the difference on how you use it. Technique comes with practice. The blocks may be helpful to some in certain situations, but I've never had a situation where I couldn't figure out an simple work-around. It's easy to over think until you use it.
 
Last edited:
Thank you Strigamort,
If I understand correctly, you remove the guide after sharpening the straight part, then refit it for the other side? Or sharpen the whole thing without the guide fitted?
Watching people on Youtube, it seems hard enough to keep the blade steady even using the guide.
 
Strigamort, thanks for the info. and the pics. So, with the small pen blade in the second pic, do you pivot the blade on the spine so the tip sticks out and can be reached by the stone or...?

Andrew
 
IMO the EP isn't made for small blades. Yes, it will work, but it's overkill.

For small blades it's easier and quicker for me to use water stones.
 
AFAustin said:
Strigamort, thanks for the info. and the pics. So, with the small pen blade in the second pic, do you pivot the blade on the spine so the tip sticks out and can be reached by the stone or...?

Andrew
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's exactly right. Pulling the blade back so just the tip (heh) is on the table, you don't need to move the guide. The corner of the guide is against the spine. You're kinda holding the blade at a diagonal (flat on the table of course) so that the tip is in the same spot that the straight part of the edge was. I'll take another pic of just that if it'll help.

Honestly, when you go to use the thing, it's very easy to understand and do.
 
IMAG1948_zps2db173ff.jpg


Sorry for the ultra blurry pic.

That's what I mean by diagonal. Didn't feel like I was explaining it very well. :)

The Sodbuster, of course, is an extreme example because of the sharp curve at the front of the blade. Most knives have a lot more belly that arcs more gently. Also, you don't have to move a blade constantly to keep the edge right there. In fact, on my Contego I don't move the knife at all. I imagine something like a Buck 110 may be fine the same way.
 
Strigamort, thanks for the additional info. That pic explains it very well.

Maybe Ben Dale should demonstrate your technique for small blades rather than all the riser block stuff!

Andrew
 
For some traditionals, it's great, for very narrow or uneven knives it's a PITA.

Only have 4 years of experience using it. ;)

My dad decided to test me last time I went home and handed me his leatherman Micra to sharpen the blade. I was glad when that tiny SOB finally got sharp.

Opinels don't seem to like it much either.

For most modern one hand knives, nothing beats it, nothing I've seen at least.
 
Thanks, for the advice Skimo, I am going to give it a try, if I don't like it should make for excellent trade bait later on.
 
Skimo- I really like it for an Opinel. Everyone is different though. I would definitely agree that it's best suited to modern (read-big) blades though. :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top