More Effective Choice than S110V for Application?

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Sharperthansticks

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Sep 19, 2017
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There's a vent that I had taped over because it got my room way too hot, even when it was closed. I used clear packing tape, and I layered it so there would be no gaps. Worked like a charm. Now it's hot and I need some A/C in that room, and so I decided to cut away the tape. To do this, I used my blurple (S110V) PM2. Obviously I knew that the vent itself was metal so that the blade was going to hit metal when going through the tape, but I didn't feel like prying off the tape -- especially since I needed to keep half of it on, because I only wanted half of the vent exposed. Anyway, the PM2 edge got pretty dinged up, and it took me a while to restore it (on the blade grinding attachment of the WSKO). If I was going to do this again, is there a better choice than PM2 for something like this? If so, what is it? While I know that many of you would simply decide to go around the problem and not dull the blade at all -- by prying the tape carefully, instead of cutting it -- let's just assume that's not an option and that you're going to to cut but you can choose a different knife and even a different steel. What would be a choice where the edge would sustain less damage? I chose S110V because of its high abrasion resistance. Others might have choosen something high in toughness -- like M4, 4V, or 3V (any of which I could have used) -- but I thought that toughness would be more of a factor in an impact, rather than cutting, scenario.
 
Metals going to dull any steel. You may want to get some diamond stones as they will make quick work of sharpening any of those super steels over those belts. Just my opinion. But yea if you get a roll over a chip you still have to sharpen them out. So it's basically the same issue.

In the case you had, a 5 dooler Walmart knife or box cutter would have been idea. Super cheap and very easy to sharpen if contact with metal.
 
Mo2 said:
Metals going to dull any steel. You may want to get some diamond stones as they will make quick work of sharpening any of those super steels over those belts. Just my opinion. But yea if you get a roll over a chip you still have to sharpen them out. So it's basically the same issue.

In the case you had, a 5 dooler Walmart knife or box cutter would have been idea. Super cheap and very easy to sharpen if contact with metal.
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Yeah, I was thinking about those $5 knives. Or maybe something fancier from MassDrop where you just replace the blade with a standard utility blade (and throw out the dull one).
 
Sharperthansticks said:
There's a vent that I had taped over because it got my room way too hot, even when it was closed. I used clear packing tape, and I layered it so there would be no gaps. Worked like a charm. Now it's hot and I need some A/C in that room, and so I decided to cut away the tape. To do this, I used my blurple (S110V) PM2. Obviously I knew that the vent itself was metal so that the blade was going to hit metal when going through the tape, but I didn't feel like prying off the tape -- especially since I needed to keep half of it on, because I only wanted half of the vent exposed. Anyway, the PM2 edge got pretty dinged up, and it took me a while to restore it (on the blade grinding attachment of the WSKO). If I was going to do this again, is there a better choice than PM2 for something like this? If so, what is it? While I know that many of you would simply decide to go around the problem and not dull the blade at all -- by prying the tape carefully, instead of cutting it -- let's just assume that's not an option and that you're going to to cut but you can choose a different knife and even a different steel. What would be a choice where the edge would sustain less damage? I chose S110V because of its high abrasion resistance. Others might have choosen something high in toughness -- like M4, 4V, or 3V (any of which I could have used) -- but I thought that toughness would be more of a factor in an impact, rather than cutting, scenario.
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An olfa knie, box cutter, or maybe my swiss army knife if I was desperate because its a cinch to be resharpened.

Though in general high carbide steels (s100v) have lower edge stability so in theory you would want a knife with as tough a steel as possible. If you must cut the tape with a “supersteel” stainless knife then Elmax is my suggestion.
 
Sharperthansticks said:
There's a vent that I had taped over because it got my room way too hot, even when it was closed. I used clear packing tape, and I layered it so there would be no gaps. Worked like a charm. Now it's hot and I need some A/C in that room, and so I decided to cut away the tape. To do this, I used my blurple (S110V) PM2. Obviously I knew that the vent itself was metal so that the blade was going to hit metal when going through the tape, but I didn't feel like prying off the tape -- especially since I needed to keep half of it on, because I only wanted half of the vent exposed. Anyway, the PM2 edge got pretty dinged up, and it took me a while to restore it (on the blade grinding attachment of the WSKO). If I was going to do this again, is there a better choice than PM2 for something like this? If so, what is it? While I know that many of you would simply decide to go around the problem and not dull the blade at all -- by prying the tape carefully, instead of cutting it -- let's just assume that's not an option and that you're going to to cut but you can choose a different knife and even a different steel. What would be a choice where the edge would sustain less damage? I chose S110V because of its high abrasion resistance. Others might have choosen something high in toughness -- like M4, 4V, or 3V (any of which I could have used) -- but I thought that toughness would be more of a factor in an impact, rather than cutting, scenario.
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If you need a pimpin’ box cutter check out the Spectrum Energetics Utilizer. They got all kinds of models.

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You wouldn't use glass ceramic, bamboo cutting boards in the kitchen. Your knives would dull, chip or roll on those just as metal vent.

Sure you can get steel that would smash through a cinder block but that's going to be a pretty expensive knife due to the heat treatment. Check out those carothers knives if you wanted one.
 
Seems to me that hiting metal will bang up any steel blade regardless of the steel. As was said a disposable would.have been what I would have used.
 
why dont ya replace that grill/register with an obd style where ya can adjust the air flow via dampers instead of tape? as for blade steel I'd just solve the grill issue with one I could adjust and save your knives for knife tasks. although if ya just like the tape grill setup....
5160 easy to resharpen and have some give to it.
 
I cut into 2,000lb bags of rocks at work to drop the material on a semi regular basis I can tell you in plain edge format no knife no matter the blade material will escape with an edge. Super steels are the worse with the extra time to sharpen, the lower wear resistant steels are quicker and easier to get into business.

Serrated blades still get damaged but their still somewhat usable afterwards but are still in need of sharpening.

Disposable blades such as box cutters especially in handles you can quickly swap the blade are quite good in these dirty and abusive jobs. My coworker has his setup where he holds down the button and swaps to the damaged edge for this task than after he is done he reverses it to the other side dedicated to normal cutting duties.

Same thing will apply to metal but possibly not as high of a degree.

So for the right tool it would go: box cutter, serrated blade, low wear resistant blade, high wear resistant blade from my experience.
 
That would’ve been a job for my rat 1 in aus 8. My thought process is I know whatever knife Im going to use in that situation is going to take damage. I rather use something I can easily sharpen or touch up.
 
Vent is a piece of the issue, the tape may be the other. Lots of packing tape is reinforced with fiberglass and that will do a number on just about any blade every built.

Personally, I would probably use a beater knife in 8cr13mov or 420HC or similar and just resharpen it afterwards.
 
Sharperthansticks said:
There's a vent that I had taped over because it got my room way too hot, even when it was closed. I used clear packing tape, and I layered it so there would be no gaps. Worked like a charm. Now it's hot and I need some A/C in that room, and so I decided to cut away the tape. To do this, I used my blurple (S110V) PM2. Obviously I knew that the vent itself was metal so that the blade was going to hit metal when going through the tape, but I didn't feel like prying off the tape -- especially since I needed to keep half of it on, because I only wanted half of the vent exposed. Anyway, the PM2 edge got pretty dinged up, and it took me a while to restore it (on the blade grinding attachment of the WSKO). If I was going to do this again, is there a better choice than PM2 for something like this? If so, what is it? While I know that many of you would simply decide to go around the problem and not dull the blade at all -- by prying the tape carefully, instead of cutting it -- let's just assume that's not an option and that you're going to to cut but you can choose a different knife and even a different steel. What would be a choice where the edge would sustain less damage? I chose S110V because of its high abrasion resistance. Others might have choosen something high in toughness -- like M4, 4V, or 3V (any of which I could have used) -- but I thought that toughness would be more of a factor in an impact, rather than cutting, scenario.
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I don't disagree with what's been said above.
Box cutters or low end steels? Totally.

However I feel the spirit of the question is asking what would be a better sweet spot with nicer steels for that situation.


Well, good ol' rusty carbon, PM tool steels would work better in that situation, they have a better combonation of strength and toughness that makes the edge more stable and less prone to edge chipping so faster to touch up.
I keep a Spyderco Double Stuff 2 CBN stone in my pocket for on the fly touch ups and repairs

The sweet spot for that job is something like PM Cruwear, PD1, Z-Wear.
Also 4v, M4 and surprisingly Rex 45 will work as well.

The edges are still effected, but will have less damage then s110v and less work/time to repair.

Dropping down to 3v is trading strength and wear for more impact/shock resistance so is not necessary per say. That just makes the blade itself harder to break but the edge is easier to blunt and roll so not as ideal for a folder. Lower alloy steels that are even tougher than 3v (A8 mod, S5, S7, CPM 1V) continue down this path of trade offs.



So a combination of strength and toughness is most ideal. You may be surprised how capable A11 type steels are for these applications. Steels like 10v, K390 show better than expected results when coming in contact with metal and ceramic. Definitely something to check out.

For stainless steel, the new nitrogen steels will really make folks happy. Especially the new Vanax steel for this type of situation. The edge is very stable, less damage and easier to fix then other PM stainless steels but similar wear resistance to Elmax and is rust proof as a bonus.

S110v is a lower grit edge, aggressive slicing, cardboard monster, it's for people that blunt and dull normal edges with lots of abrasive cutting in softer materials. Its is unmatched in the right environment with the right user but a lot of trade-offs.

That is what extreme performance of anything is. Extreme trade offs. Something extreme can perform extreme when applied proper in it's strength and when it's weakness is avoided. That's synergy
 
DeadboxHero said:
I don't disagree with what's been said above.
Box cutters or low end steels? Totally.

However I feel the spirit of the question is asking what would be a better sweet spot with nicer steels for that situation.


Well, good ol' rusty carbon, PM tool steels would work better in that situation, they have a better combonation of strength and toughness that makes the edge more stable and less prone to edge chipping so faster to touch up.
I keep a Spyderco Double Stuff 2 CBN stone in my pocket for on the fly touch ups and repairs

The sweet spot for that job is something like PM Cruwear, PD1, Z-Wear.
Also 4v, M4 and surprisingly Rex 45 will work as well.

The edges are still effected, but will have less damage then s110v and less work/time to repair.

Dropping down to 3v is trading strength and wear for more impact/shock resistance so is not necessary per say. That just makes the blade itself harder to break but the edge is easier to blunt and roll so not as ideal for a folder. Lower alloy steels that are even tougher than 3v (A8 mod, S5, S7, CPM 1V) continue down this path of trade offs.



So a combination of strength and toughness is most ideal. You may be surprised how capable A11 type steels are for these applications. Steels like 10v, K390 show better than expected results when coming in contact with metal and ceramic. Definitely something to check out.

For stainless steel, the new nitrogen steels will really make folks happy. Especially the new Vanax steel for this type of situation. The edge is very stable, less damage and easier to fix then other PM stainless steels but similar wear resistance to Elmax and is rust proof as a bonus.

S110v is a lower grit edge, aggressive slicing, cardboard monster, it's for people that blunt and dull normal edges with lots of abrasive cutting in softer materials. Its is unmatched in the right environment with the right user but a lot of trade-offs.

That is what extreme performance of anything is. Extreme trade offs. Something extreme can perform extreme when applied proper in it's strength and when it's weakness is avoided. That's synergy
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If one can afford high end stuff like you mention, I think it might be money better spent on fixing the vent in the first place. Convenience and comfort and what not....

:D
 
craytab said:
If one can afford high end stuff like you mention, I think it might be money better spent on fixing the vent in the first place. Convenience and comfort and what not....

:D
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Agree 100% :D
 
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craytab said:
If one can afford high end stuff like you mention, I think it might be money better spent on fixing the vent in the first place. Convenience and comfort and what not....

:D
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I agree with what at least half of the people on here suggested -- using some form of beater knife, whether it's really a beater knife from Walmart or a less costly knife with lower end steel that's easier to touch up. You, however, have twice honed in on the vent itself, which is missing the point; I'm not really asking about cutting on on vents; I'm asking in general about cutting in situations where, behind the substance you're cutting is something that's going to be really hard on a blade -- something like metal. My case happened to be a vent, but there's probably other, similar cases out there, too. DeadboxHero DeadboxHero , in his beginning, "I don't disagree with what's been said above. Box cutters or low end steels? Totally. However I feel the spirit of the question is asking what would be a better sweet spot with nicer steels for that situation" understood exactly what I was getting at.
 
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