More Patina Attempts

T

truck

Joined
Jan 22, 2002
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When I went to the local gun store, looking for some cold bluing, I found a slightly different product to try. They were out of the cold stuff, but had another Birchwood Casey product called a "Presto" gun blue pen. It looks just like a sharpie. It is supposed to instantly blue steel. Previously, I had tried what I call the "Picnic Patina." Mustard, ketchup, etc. The finish was pretty spotty and I wasn't really happy with it. To prep the blade for the pen treatment I did nothing more than wash the sap off the blade with some steel wool. Basically, it was just like using a magic marker to color the blade. The blade colors very quickly. Pleasantly, there is no strong odor when using this product. My first try, didn't match up with some of my previously darkened areas. Since I'm too damn impatient to try to buff out the differences with steel wool, I gave it another go. This morning, I wiped off the blade with my finger and it was a dark, even, grey:D I may have some rust around the makers mark and other forged designs. It might just be residue from the chemical, I don't know yet. Since I'll be using the blade when I get home from work, I'm going to oil it now and test drive the finish later today. Until then:p
 
It looks like it might hold up alright also. I gave it a few whacks into a 2x6 when I got home and the finish stayed. I didn't think that anything so simple might work. Hopefully Yvsa has blued the khuk he was working on for a little comparison.
 
I haven't blued one yet Truck, but I will someday.:)
Speaking of patinas though I was reading about the Wootz Steel and there was a reference to boiled onion skins imparting a deep amber color to the steel.
I know onion skins is used as a natural dye for different textiles and the like, but never thought about them for putting a patina on steel.:rolleyes:
It sorta makes sense though in that slicing onions will put a natural patina on steel much the same as slicing tomatoes or citrus. I suppose any acidic fruit or vegetable would work, but it's interesting to me about the color.:D
I might be able to get my grandson to collect me a load of onion skins since he works for Reasor's, a large local grocery chain here in Tulsa.:D
 
I used Birchwood-Casey 'Perma Blue' on a 20" AK villager, with fair-to-middlin results. The color was very nice, but rather uneven, which is likely my fault. I put about 4 applications on it. After about 3 hours of chopping green saplings/bushes this past weekend, the color is wearing a little thin on the sweet spot.
 
This one is Birchwood Casey "Presto" blue. I was suprised by how it really evened out so easily. I didn't try to even out the finish first, or heat the blade. The pen cost $5.00 which is probably expensive next to the perma blue, but ... No muss, no fuss :) Maybe we should try to get Busse to coat our blades:p :p :p
 
Yvsa,
That is interesting about the color. I guess that means that I have to buy more khuks for the kook. I wonder where it will end:D
 
I blued my WWII with Oxpho-Blue from www.brownells.com (gunsmithing supplier). I think I remember a few other folks mentioning Oxpho-Blue also. It's a LOT better than some of the others I've used. It's a lot more user friendly too. That's hard to explain that to someone that hasn't done a lot of Blueing. I'm not saying that you haven't and I'm not saying I'm an expert. What I like about it is it will blue thru oil and rust. You don't have to worry so much about rinsing with water, buffing re-applying, heating the metal, etc, etc. You can read about it at Brownells. Easy to work with, pretty color, quick, durable. I've used a lot of the others and have had good luck with them but some are more finicky with certain steels.
Oxpho is the best "Cold" blue that's out there in my opinion. Just wanted to share that.

Brownells also sells a product called Acraglass (for rifle bedding), and is right up there with "JB Weld". This company is a lot like a specialized Lowes or Home Depot. Tons of polishing suppies too. I hear good things about "Semichrome Polish" from there, I have good luck with "Flitz" polish.

I know this is old news for some of you sorry for the repost.
 
Simichrome is great stuff. Used it for most of my time in the Corps and pretty much all else since.
 
Originally posted by Bill Martino
I have a BAS with blued blade.
Click to expand...

UB,
Sorry that you got missed. Is this blade cold blued also? How has the finish held up? Did you start with the original polished finish?
 
Originally posted by crguin
I blued my WWII with Oxpho-Blue from www.brownells.com (gunsmithing supplier). Snip...

I've used a lot of the others and have had good luck with them but some are more finicky with certain steels.
Oxpho is the best "Cold" blue that's out there in my opinion. Just wanted to share that.

Brownells also sells a product called Acraglass (for rifle bedding), and is right up there with "JB Weld". This company is a lot like a specialized Lowes or Home Depot. Tons of polishing suppies too. I hear good things about "Semichrome Polish" from there, I have good luck with "Flitz" polish.

I know this is old news for some of you sorry for the repost.
Click to expand...

It may be old news for some, but if I have seen it before I have forgotten it so many, many thanks for the reminder!!!!
I was aware of the Acraglass, but not that it was similar or better than JB Weld!!!!

On another note about blueing......
It's my personal preference to blue a satin finish rather than a shiny one.
To me the shiny finish looks bad enough after the first time it's used hard, but the satin doesn't look nearly so bad.
It might be different on a firearm, but for something that's going to be continually scuffed give me satin any day!!!!:D
 
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