More Serration talk and a question

Joined
May 3, 2002
Messages
6,192
I'm one of the few freaks on the forums that actually like Part-serrated knives. Not all the time, but I like them when I'm carrying one knife and doing work. I've gotten quite used to them.

I've always thought it would be a good idea to put serrations on the belly of a knife. (Say 1" of serrations half an inch from the tip on a 4" blade - maybe a little less on a 3.25" blade.)

I KNOW I'm not the only person to think of this. Actually, I vaguely remember a reputable knife-maker broaching the subject sometime somewhere but I can't cite. In any case. I've never seen it actually done. (I'm sure someone will, kindly prove me wrong with a link or something.)

Anyway, I'm tossing around the idea of making my own serrations of some sort on a yet-to-be-decided or bought plain-edge blade.

What I hope to end up with would be sort of like a steak knife with that has the serrations at the belly except I'd leave a little more at the tip for intracate work and it'd have a lot of plain edge at the bottom for push cuts. They wouldn't even have to be that deep - just a little jagged to serve the purpose.

(I know about the coarse-sharpenig techniques but havn't traveled that road myself yet. The idea just doesn't turn me on.)

How would you go about making your own serrations? I'm quite accustomed to the Gatco system and I'm considering using a corner of a coarse diamond stone for the job and then finishing with their serration stone. (I don't have custom-knife-maker tools OR skills. Maybe some day.)

Anyone thought about these things at all? Anyone tried making their own serrations?
 
I believe that Mad Dog offers knives with a forward serration on them, other than that I don't know.

I've tried serrations a few times on some junk "flea market" knives. I had the best results with two different sizes of round files. I did some with a triangular stone and they didn't have a large enough radius to really help. I did the round files to copy the Spyderco pattern and it worked the best. It makes sense when you think of the way Sal Glesser explains serrations. The tips are only to penetrate the material and protect the inner curves that really do the cutting. Another way might be one of DMT tapered cone sharpeners. Let us know how it turns out.
 
Originally posted by Esav Benyamin
Steak Knives -- Unique profile features straight edges to start and finish the cut, with serrations to slice through robust steaks with aplomb.

He-he.:D
Thanks but you missed what I was asking.;)

I don't want a steak knife. I just want serrations on an EDC folder like a serrated steak knife. Those WERE nice steak knives though!
 
Busse makes some knives with serrations near the tip. I have no idea how well they work. I really have no idea if ANYBODY knows how well they work. I think the knives he made like that were 1 of a kinds, so I'll bet they don't see much (if any) use.
 
Look the Victorinos Trailmaster One Handed it has 3/4 of the blade serrated ....

sakpic3.jpg

pic from Donrearic.com

Roloss_valdes
 
I added serrations once with a half round diamond stone/file. One of the cheapo $8 ones that slide into the handle to look like a pen. Use the coarse or medium to shape them and a fine grit to sharpen it. Its very slow, and you'll have to be extra carful starting each groove.
 
Originally posted by Matt Shade
I added serrations once with a half round diamond stone/file. One of the cheapo $8 ones that slide into the handle to look like a pen. Use the coarse or medium to shape them and a fine grit to sharpen it. Its very slow, and you'll have to be extra carful starting each groove.

Thanks. I might pick up one of those and give it a try on a cheap SOG Autoclip or something first.
 
I am not fond of serrations and I like a coarse edge for some uses, such as cutting rope or slicing tomatoes, but I have tried serrations both factory and home made.

I have added serrations on several knives and on the foil removing blades on corkscrews, I used a set of jeweller´s files, start by making some small marks with a triangular file and finish with a round file or a half round file, once I used a square file (on one corner of the file) and it came out OK but didn´t feel too comfortable and made them round later.
 
Those Lansky serrated sharpeners may be ok for touching up a knife that already has serrations but to make them on a PE will take you longer than you would like.Without using any power tools your best bet is a long oval or cone shaped diamond sharpener.I recommend the Ultimate Edge.Even with this the serrations will take very long.Good luck
 
fulloflead said:
I'm one of the few freaks on the forums that actually like Part-serrated knives. ...How would you go about making your own serrations? ...

Me too, I like a knife with 60% straight, 40% serrated, not on all my knives but on some.


I'd try a dremel at a very slow speed so as not to burn or take the temper out of the edge. Make marks with a sharpie and make sure you notch the edge with a diamond triangle file to start it so when you use the dremel it won't wander.
 
One suggestion-
If you really want to put serrations on a PE knife made from decently hard steel, it will take a LONG time to do by hand. I'd recommend setting up a special grinder for the purpose.

We have the perfect tool in our shop. It's an old electric motor that was scrounged up from somewhere. Probably paid a dollar for it at an auction or something. We added a threaded spindle to the shaft, and attached a worn out chop saw (aka cutoff saw) wheel by sandwiching it between 2 big washers. So in effect, you've got a grinder with a hard abrasive wheel only about 1/8" thick- the perfect size for grinding in serrations. If you don't have a bunch of abrasive saw blades laying around, you can pick up new ones for a couple bucks at most hardware stores. It doesn't even have to be the right size for the shaft the way we have it set up; the big flat washers hold it in place, and you can get it perfectly centered by turning the shaft by hand & tapping it in place.
 
You're right that by hand it would take a long time. A dremel has very little power and will always go too fast. Maybe a drill press at 500rpm would be better, since it will not stop under pressure and is slow enough to control. You could rig a vice type jig to hold the knife at the right angle.. just an idea...
 
Back
Top