More stropping/compound questions...

DeadFall27

DeadFall27

Joined
May 18, 2011
Messages
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So as I do searches through the forum, I cannot necessarily find the answers to my own questions about strops, stropping compounds, etc. Maybe its some ADD; could be the fact that I am tired and the words just blur together...who knows...:yawn:

I am making my own strop from an old leather belt and am looking to buy some compound for it. Problem is, I am confused as of which to buy.
Anyway, I apologize if I am wasting time but here it goes:

1. The smooth side of the leather is what faces up correct? (I've seen strops with the nappy side up for some reason)
2. What is the difference in the compounds that Bark River sells and that of Sears or Amazon for example? (I have found cheap, 1lb sticks that look like they'd work but I am wary of them)
3. What is the difference between black, white and green polishing compounds?
4.What should an edge be like after using 2000 grit sandpaper? (I can push-cut paper but not shave)

Thank you for taking the time to read through my questions, if I did miss a thread that answers these, please excuse my dumb-ass!
 
DeadFall27 said:
So as I do searches through the forum, I cannot necessarily find the answers to my own questions about strops, stropping compounds, etc. Maybe its some ADD; could be the fact that I am tired and the words just blur together...who knows...:yawn:

I am making my own strop from an old leather belt and am looking to buy some compound for it. Problem is, I am confused as of which to buy.
Anyway, I apologize if I am wasting time but here it goes:

1. The smooth side of the leather is what faces up correct? (I've seen strops with the nappy side up for some reason)
Click to expand...

It's a preference issue, and a lot depends on the quality of the leather being used. I think most prefer using the smooth side, but some have had success using the 'nappy' side. I'd encourage you to try both ways, just to see for yourself what will serve your needs better. Whichever side you use, a uniformity of the surface is most important. Oftentimes, the 'rough' side will be very inconsistent in texture (parts of it soft, other parts very hard/stiff).

2. What is the difference in the compounds that Bark River sells and that of Sears or Amazon for example? (I have found cheap, 1lb sticks that look like they'd work but I am wary of them)
Click to expand...

The 'better' brands of compound are usually more consistent in grit size, and will often contain a higher concentration of actual abrasive (the other 'part' of compounds will be the binders, which hold it all together).

3. What is the difference between black, white and green polishing compounds?
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BLACK = Silicon carbide. Very hard, sharp, aggressive cutting. Available in wide grit range, from very coarse, down to medium/fine. Works fast at heavy metal removal, during early stages of sharpening.

WHITE = aluminum oxide. Also quite hard (not quite as hard as the black), not quite as sharp. Grit sizes usually smaller than SiC (black), in 3-10 micron ballpark. Works well in the finer stages of sharpening.

GREEN = chromium oxide. Slightly less hard than the other two, grit/grain size is very small (0.5 micron, on average). Due to the very small grit size, it's best suited for the final finishing stages.

4.What should an edge be like after using 2000 grit sandpaper? (I can push-cut paper but not shave)
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Can produce a nice mirror polish, assuming prior grit stages aren't too coarse. Lead up to it in steps (220/320/400/600/800/1000/1500), and it'll make the steel shine.

As for cutting performance, that's more a technique issue. Shaving edges come from very consistent angle control, and making sure each grit stage prior was done to complete effectiveness. If not, the 2000 grit might still make the edge shiny, but not necessarily sharp.
 
Thank you so much! I will try to refine my technique a bit more and invest in some compound and see how that works. When (or if) I get better, I may experiment with diamond pastes.
 
zyhano said:
Hi Deadfall,
check out my 'abrasives described' thread, it might contain useful information for you: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=776447
here's a thread of mine on building strops: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=770338

good luck on your journey :)
Click to expand...

Hmmm....so that begs the question, I am (obviously) new to stropping so what would you recommend I use first while I follow the learning curve? Diamond paste or chromium oxide compound?
Your posts are amazing btw, I really cannot express the gratitude I have for you guys here at BF, there is no other place like it. I'm off to build a strop myself!
 
DeadFall27 said:
Hmmm....so that begs the question, I am (obviously) new to stropping so what would you recommend I use first while I follow the learning curve? Diamond paste or chromium oxide compound?
Your posts are amazing btw, I really cannot express the gratitude I have for you guys here at BF, there is no other place like it. I'm off to build a strop myself!
Click to expand...
Thanks, yes, bladeforums is an amazing place and a great place to learn and hangout.

I'd recommend chromium oxide from a simple metal shop because it's cheap and easy to get (ask for green polishing paste).
Diamond paste is more expensive and you can get that later on - or right now - if you want to take the plunge. That said, I use the green stuff not so much anymore, since I think mine is pretty low quality. It's mostly for finishing the tools in the shed: axes, chisels etc.

Obsessed with edges is also always very liberal with sharing knowledge and he gives some good advice so I'd definitely go with what he just said.
I don't have easy access to the black and white and have never felt the need to use those, but lately I've been reading from some guys that they are stropping with coarser compounds so I just might have to check that out myself too :D
 
I just picked up a double sided strop from knivesshipfree.com that came with bark river black and green compound, it came today and i used it for the first time (ever) and got my already sharp user HEST to shaving sharp on my first try. Follow the instruction videos the KSF puts out and it makes it easy (er)

The kit was 40 bucks and included the strop and compound. Probabaly a little pricy since i didnt shop around but it worked GREAT
 
Something else to experiment with, if you're so inclined. I've been using Simichrome polishing paste on one of my strops lately. The abrasive in it is aluminum oxide, at a pretty fine grit. I've been impressed with the results I've been getting with it. In fact, it fits very nicely in my sharpening scheme, after using the 2000 grit sandpaper. So, if you're going 'shopping' for compounds, that might be something to look into (I'm betting Flitz would work like this also). And, the nice thing is, it's also great for 'regular' polishing duties, too.
 
clichtenwalner1 said:
I just picked up a double sided strop from knivesshipfree.com that came with bark river black and green compound, it came today and i used it for the first time (ever) and got my already sharp user HEST to shaving sharp on my first try. Follow the instruction videos the KSF puts out and it makes it easy (er)

The kit was 40 bucks and included the strop and compound. Probabaly a little pricy since i didnt shop around but it worked GREAT
Click to expand...

On an unrelated side note, how long did shipping take with knivesshipfree? I was actually looking into that kit but it may be cheaper to just buy the compound.
 
I got it priority mail in two days. I ordered it in the morning so it shipped the same day. Yeh the kit is 40 and the bark river compound set is like 25-26 while the strop alone is 20 so if your buying both the kit saves ya money but if you have your own strop then no need for the pricey kit.
 
I might actually commit to the kit. Sorry for my constant questions, but how sharp was your HEST before stropping? I just want to make sure I am at the highest level I can be before stropping my blade.
 
My hest was very sharp. Sliced paper and tensions on rabbits with ease. Before the strop my final step was 1000 grit waterstone. Now after the kit its so easy to get it spooky sharp and I have no previous stropping experience and learned from online videos on ksf's site
 
Sweet, I just finished my strop and am waiting for my compound to come in, I'll post when I have it in.
 
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