- Joined
- Feb 23, 2015
- Messages
- 264
I may have to make a video. The photos are ok but I kinda wish I could explain things in a
bit more detail. I find myself talking about what I am doing...to myself. It would be
entertaining, if nothing else.
I've had another week or two to play around using the 5.1 to build fires, do some carving
and continue experimenting with techniques for building semi-permanent, free-standing
shelters. I've learned a number of things and I'll share with the group.
All of this work was done with my axe, my Gomboy saw and, of course, my GSO 5.1. The majority
of the work was split between the saw and 5.1.
Lesson One:
Water and fine dust can accumulate under the 5.1 scales. I came home and washed the 5.1 and
decided to pull the scales off to wax them. I have a canvas jacket that I recently waxed to
improve it's water resistance. I figured it might be good to protect the handles as well
as a jacket (it did turn out pretty nice!!! See Number Four). I pulled the scales off and found
a silky muddy mess. I think fine dust had gotten trapped under there with use and water from
washing got in there and made a mess. I only mention it as a point of information in case anyone
cares. I don't, really. I don't mind taking the handles off periodically for cleaning.
Lesson Two:
Filson's Original Oil Finish Wax really brings out the color of canvas micarta! Plus, it
waterproofs and makes the handles feel more grippy. The scales are the green version. I kinda
like how rich they look. I pulled the scales off, rubbed in a good amount of the wax and then
heated them in the microwave for 20 seconds to melt the wax so it could seep in. I'll probably
do this to all my incoming GSOs...unless someone informs me that this is a bad idea.
Lesson Three:
The first version of joining the posts and cross members using angled notches didn't work
all that well. It wasn't as stable as I had hoped. It was way too difficult to match all the
angles accurately. It did help keep the pieces together but they flopped around when trying
to stand them up and put everything upright. It did give me an idea for something to try
next though. I needed something that would hold two interlocking pieces together and not allow
them to slide or rotate apart. Hmmm. How about pegs?
Start with making a squared post using the saw groove method. Still gotta get better with the
saw...
Next, cut a groove on one of the side surfaces, not the front surface. Start by scribing lines
so gouging out the wood will be easier and more controlled. The 5.1 tip and thin profile really
did well removing the wood. It did have a bit of an issue getting to the middle of the groove
due to the blade width. A little bit of angling got it though.
Pics show two attempts...
#1
#2
Next, cut notches in the cross members. I love the thin profile. I can't get enough of using
the 5.1 like a chisel. That tip is a fantastic tool! It acts like a cross between a chisel
and a plane. It makes it really, really easy to clean up rough cuts from the saw. Started
with the saw (getting better!) but didn't show that process much. Pics show two attempts
but I just combined them...
Now we need a groove in the corresponding side of the notch to match the groove in the
squared post. This was one of the better learning moments! I figured out how to use the saw
to cut really nice grooves WITH the grain! I'll call it out when we get to that step.
Determine where the groove needs to go...
Now cut the groove with the saw (tried the knife, didn't work at all! Space was too tight).
Here's what I learned. If you barely put any pressure on the saw and move it really fast,
almost like you're sanding the wood, it does actually cut cross grain. Or on the end of the
grain in this case. I also changed the angle and direction of the saw as needed. So I laid
it flatter and more upright and did an X across the length of the groove one way then the
other to clean it out. It made very even and clean grooves! I was very surprised and very
pleased! I hope that makes sense. If not, let me know if you really want a better description
and maybe I'll put together a little video. The key is very light downward pressure and fast
motion!!
First one was the test, second was better.
Now make a peg that will slide in the matched grooves. This will prevent the notched cross
member from being able to slide or rotate off the squared post!!
Locked together with no cordage. It's not as stable as I'd like but it's doing what I hoped for. Sort of. See the next Lesson...
Lesson Four:
I had high hopes for the peg and groove method. It works for furniture and cabinetry so I
actually think it could work for bushcraft/shelter needs. Sadly, much like the initial idea
of angled notches and grooves, it didn't work as well as planned. The pieces were held
together and would not come apart but there was way too much play in the joints. I think the
effort it would take in the woods (not in a shop with real wood working tools) to make this
a viable option would be too much. The required precision would be too hard to achieve in a
timely manner. It could probably be done but I am not sure I want to spend that much time!
I did, however, come up with a third method that I tried tonight. I have pictures and thoughts
that I will put into another thread. This one is already long enough! But it does work. Really
well!!!
(END OF LESSONS)
More info on how the 5.1 is holding up and how I'm liking it. There were a few of areas I
mentioned in my first review that I'll revisit.
The first was the handle. Initially it felt to big, especially in comparison to the RMD.
The handle has grown on me. It does feel natural and comfortable each time I use it. I really
enjoy holding it. The balance and contour are pretty damn good.
The second item I mentioned was the choil. I've "figured out" how to use the 5.1. Transitions
between a full handle grip and a choked up grip are smooth and I don't even think about it.
It just happens. It's part of the 5.1 nimble-ness. That's not a word. I know.
The last issue I had (and still have) is the jimping on the spine. I could do without it. In
my opinion, the knife would be better with a smooth spine. When I choke up it cuts into the
web/fleshy part of my hand between my pointer finger and thumb. It also rubs my thumb raw
if I use it as intended. But, I almost always wear gloves so it doesn't come up very often.
I do wish that was a customization option when purchasing just like a ferro notch and
bow drill divot. But I understand what that would mean and certainly respect Survive!'s decision
to add the jimping.
The last concern I brought up was the edge and some micro chipping or rolling I experienced. I
did not think I was using the knife hard enough to ding the edge. I thought the RMD would have
stood up to the same use without any edge issues. I still think that would have been the case.
But, here's the interesting thing. I've have not seen the same kind of edge dinging/rolling on
the 5.1 that I did for the first review. I have an idea why and I'll explain. I would really love
some feedback on my thoughts. I could very well be wrong. Some input from Survive! could help too.
A quick aside why I think the RMD would have fared better. The SR-101 is pretty impressive steel
with really good edge retention and toughness. The most important thing, though, is that I've
spent a considerable amount of time refining the edge to fit HOW I USE KNIVES! The RMD did not
work for me from the factory but through trial and error I got it dialed in. Which leads me to...
The first review was done with the factory 5.1 edge and some very light and infrequent stropping
on leather. As we all know, they are sharp as fudge and carve extremely well. I don't know what
the edge angle is straight from Guy but it looks like it might be between 20 and 25 degrees?
I've been touching up the edge every night with guided ceramic rods and leather strop at 25
degrees. What I've noticed is this. I might (MIGHT) have lost a little really fine carving capability in
the form of paper thin (near transparent) curls but gained a bit in edge integrity. It feels
like I am getting the 5.1 slowly dialed in. It could be my imagination but it sure seems like it.
I have been using it the same, on the same wood, for longer periods of time and I haven't seen
the same edge chipping/rolling that I did. Awesome! I'll keep using it and see if it holds up.
Side note on that, too. I have some INFI. One odd, almost mystical thing I've noticed on that is
it seems to retain its edge integrity the more you hammer on it. Batoning, chopping and push
cuts have almost no effect. Like using it hard like that makes it better. I wonder if this 3v
is like that. MAGIC!!! That would be cool.
I do really like this knife. I am very happy I discovered Survive!. The fit and finish is second
to none (that I've owned or held). The balde finish (peened) is a really good choice. I've started
to see some tiny scratches but it's smooth and moves through the wood with ease. I like it much
better that the coating on the RMD. And the thin profile, especially the tip?!?! Don't get me started.
I really appreciate how much usefulness it adds (is that a word?). I almost never did the chisel/plane
thing with the RMD. It's too thick and harder to control. The 5.1 does it well. It is a joy to work with.
Anyway, I'll get the next thread up as soon as I can. More in-use pics and probably less observations.
Take care all!
'scissors
bit more detail. I find myself talking about what I am doing...to myself. It would be
entertaining, if nothing else.
I've had another week or two to play around using the 5.1 to build fires, do some carving
and continue experimenting with techniques for building semi-permanent, free-standing
shelters. I've learned a number of things and I'll share with the group.
All of this work was done with my axe, my Gomboy saw and, of course, my GSO 5.1. The majority
of the work was split between the saw and 5.1.
Lesson One:
Water and fine dust can accumulate under the 5.1 scales. I came home and washed the 5.1 and
decided to pull the scales off to wax them. I have a canvas jacket that I recently waxed to
improve it's water resistance. I figured it might be good to protect the handles as well
as a jacket (it did turn out pretty nice!!! See Number Four). I pulled the scales off and found
a silky muddy mess. I think fine dust had gotten trapped under there with use and water from
washing got in there and made a mess. I only mention it as a point of information in case anyone
cares. I don't, really. I don't mind taking the handles off periodically for cleaning.
Lesson Two:
Filson's Original Oil Finish Wax really brings out the color of canvas micarta! Plus, it
waterproofs and makes the handles feel more grippy. The scales are the green version. I kinda
like how rich they look. I pulled the scales off, rubbed in a good amount of the wax and then
heated them in the microwave for 20 seconds to melt the wax so it could seep in. I'll probably
do this to all my incoming GSOs...unless someone informs me that this is a bad idea.
Lesson Three:
The first version of joining the posts and cross members using angled notches didn't work
all that well. It wasn't as stable as I had hoped. It was way too difficult to match all the
angles accurately. It did help keep the pieces together but they flopped around when trying
to stand them up and put everything upright. It did give me an idea for something to try
next though. I needed something that would hold two interlocking pieces together and not allow
them to slide or rotate apart. Hmmm. How about pegs?
Start with making a squared post using the saw groove method. Still gotta get better with the
saw...
Next, cut a groove on one of the side surfaces, not the front surface. Start by scribing lines
so gouging out the wood will be easier and more controlled. The 5.1 tip and thin profile really
did well removing the wood. It did have a bit of an issue getting to the middle of the groove
due to the blade width. A little bit of angling got it though.
Pics show two attempts...
#1
#2
Next, cut notches in the cross members. I love the thin profile. I can't get enough of using
the 5.1 like a chisel. That tip is a fantastic tool! It acts like a cross between a chisel
and a plane. It makes it really, really easy to clean up rough cuts from the saw. Started
with the saw (getting better!) but didn't show that process much. Pics show two attempts
but I just combined them...
Now we need a groove in the corresponding side of the notch to match the groove in the
squared post. This was one of the better learning moments! I figured out how to use the saw
to cut really nice grooves WITH the grain! I'll call it out when we get to that step.
Determine where the groove needs to go...
Now cut the groove with the saw (tried the knife, didn't work at all! Space was too tight).
Here's what I learned. If you barely put any pressure on the saw and move it really fast,
almost like you're sanding the wood, it does actually cut cross grain. Or on the end of the
grain in this case. I also changed the angle and direction of the saw as needed. So I laid
it flatter and more upright and did an X across the length of the groove one way then the
other to clean it out. It made very even and clean grooves! I was very surprised and very
pleased! I hope that makes sense. If not, let me know if you really want a better description
and maybe I'll put together a little video. The key is very light downward pressure and fast
motion!!
First one was the test, second was better.
Now make a peg that will slide in the matched grooves. This will prevent the notched cross
member from being able to slide or rotate off the squared post!!
Locked together with no cordage. It's not as stable as I'd like but it's doing what I hoped for. Sort of. See the next Lesson...
Lesson Four:
I had high hopes for the peg and groove method. It works for furniture and cabinetry so I
actually think it could work for bushcraft/shelter needs. Sadly, much like the initial idea
of angled notches and grooves, it didn't work as well as planned. The pieces were held
together and would not come apart but there was way too much play in the joints. I think the
effort it would take in the woods (not in a shop with real wood working tools) to make this
a viable option would be too much. The required precision would be too hard to achieve in a
timely manner. It could probably be done but I am not sure I want to spend that much time!
I did, however, come up with a third method that I tried tonight. I have pictures and thoughts
that I will put into another thread. This one is already long enough! But it does work. Really
well!!!
(END OF LESSONS)
More info on how the 5.1 is holding up and how I'm liking it. There were a few of areas I
mentioned in my first review that I'll revisit.
The first was the handle. Initially it felt to big, especially in comparison to the RMD.
The handle has grown on me. It does feel natural and comfortable each time I use it. I really
enjoy holding it. The balance and contour are pretty damn good.
The second item I mentioned was the choil. I've "figured out" how to use the 5.1. Transitions
between a full handle grip and a choked up grip are smooth and I don't even think about it.
It just happens. It's part of the 5.1 nimble-ness. That's not a word. I know.
The last issue I had (and still have) is the jimping on the spine. I could do without it. In
my opinion, the knife would be better with a smooth spine. When I choke up it cuts into the
web/fleshy part of my hand between my pointer finger and thumb. It also rubs my thumb raw
if I use it as intended. But, I almost always wear gloves so it doesn't come up very often.
I do wish that was a customization option when purchasing just like a ferro notch and
bow drill divot. But I understand what that would mean and certainly respect Survive!'s decision
to add the jimping.
The last concern I brought up was the edge and some micro chipping or rolling I experienced. I
did not think I was using the knife hard enough to ding the edge. I thought the RMD would have
stood up to the same use without any edge issues. I still think that would have been the case.
But, here's the interesting thing. I've have not seen the same kind of edge dinging/rolling on
the 5.1 that I did for the first review. I have an idea why and I'll explain. I would really love
some feedback on my thoughts. I could very well be wrong. Some input from Survive! could help too.
A quick aside why I think the RMD would have fared better. The SR-101 is pretty impressive steel
with really good edge retention and toughness. The most important thing, though, is that I've
spent a considerable amount of time refining the edge to fit HOW I USE KNIVES! The RMD did not
work for me from the factory but through trial and error I got it dialed in. Which leads me to...
The first review was done with the factory 5.1 edge and some very light and infrequent stropping
on leather. As we all know, they are sharp as fudge and carve extremely well. I don't know what
the edge angle is straight from Guy but it looks like it might be between 20 and 25 degrees?
I've been touching up the edge every night with guided ceramic rods and leather strop at 25
degrees. What I've noticed is this. I might (MIGHT) have lost a little really fine carving capability in
the form of paper thin (near transparent) curls but gained a bit in edge integrity. It feels
like I am getting the 5.1 slowly dialed in. It could be my imagination but it sure seems like it.
I have been using it the same, on the same wood, for longer periods of time and I haven't seen
the same edge chipping/rolling that I did. Awesome! I'll keep using it and see if it holds up.
Side note on that, too. I have some INFI. One odd, almost mystical thing I've noticed on that is
it seems to retain its edge integrity the more you hammer on it. Batoning, chopping and push
cuts have almost no effect. Like using it hard like that makes it better. I wonder if this 3v
is like that. MAGIC!!! That would be cool.
I do really like this knife. I am very happy I discovered Survive!. The fit and finish is second
to none (that I've owned or held). The balde finish (peened) is a really good choice. I've started
to see some tiny scratches but it's smooth and moves through the wood with ease. I like it much
better that the coating on the RMD. And the thin profile, especially the tip?!?! Don't get me started.
I really appreciate how much usefulness it adds (is that a word?). I almost never did the chisel/plane
thing with the RMD. It's too thick and harder to control. The 5.1 does it well. It is a joy to work with.
Anyway, I'll get the next thread up as soon as I can. More in-use pics and probably less observations.
Take care all!
'scissors
