Mosaic Pins

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I need to construct some 5/32 mosaic pins. I need to know what color epoxy to use & what combinations of tube, square, & round to use. I was thinking of making copper to match Maroon Micarta. I was thinking of starting w/a 5/32 copper tube, inserting a 1/16 square brass (if thats the right size), & then a 1/32 brass or nickel silver round for the center.

Can someone tell me what sizes of square tube fits inside what size round tube. Also what size round pin fits it what size square tube. I order mostly from Sheffields knifemakes supply for stock.

I didnt mention 1/32 round black micarta-does anybody sell round micarta? Will it fit inside 1/16 square tube?

thanks in advance

john s.
 
I started to make some and after I saw them for sale in some of the knifemakers supply catalogs and at the Blade Show I opted to buy them. It looks like it might get pretty messy making them and I figured I'd come out cheaper buying them. Might be something to think about.
Tom
 
I would have to agree with Mr. Militano. I think that buying them would be the easiest way. Better than trying to put all of those parts together., but most of all, filling with epoxy so that you dont end up with air bubbles could be very tricky. I deal with Sheffields also, & I dont believe they have these pins right now. I know that they are available through Texas Knifemakers Supply. & run around $6 - $23 per. foot.
 
K&G finishing supplies have them premade also. They also have the materials and how-to (from Bob Engnath) in the catalog.

Spencer Stewart
 
Barry Posner makes these up in various materials & diameters, & his prices are pretty decent. You can reach him at-
BEPCPA2@aol.com
(And I don't have no connection to the man, just used his product & liked it.
Harry Jensen

------------------
Please feel free to visit my page, & give me any comments or questions you have regarding my knives.
It's at-
http://www.mrcalifornia.com/~hjensen
 
in order to make them properly you need a vacuum to pull the epoxy thru the tube..and get all the bubbles out....as for which sizes to use...that is all hit and miss experimentation till you come up with what works and looks good...thats why the guys charge 25 bucks a foot for those things...never bought any from posner but heard his are good...i always by mine from trugrit...they have a website...not sure the address but if you go to mine at mayoknives.com there is a link on the link page.....
 
I have made mosaic pins before and it is not that difficult but just plain messy! I suggest that before you do, buy some latex gloves at a drugstore. This will keep the epoxy off of your hands.

I live in Houston and if you live in a warm climate, do this in your house during the summertime, in this area, from March to late October. I used Devcon 2 Ton epoxy and if it is warm, it will set up in about 15 - 20 minutes. Not quite long enough for the "pin making" session. If you need to, you can chill the expoxy in your refrigerator to prolong the set up time a little.

You can buy all of the material needed from K&G in Arizona,their number is 520-537-8877. They also sell the completed pins as well. So does Texas Knifemaker's Suppy in Houston. Their number is 1-888-461-8632. The smallest micarta pin that Texas Knifemaker's Supply carries is 1/8 inch according to their catalog. Call and see if they carry have anything smaller. They are pretty nice folks.

I have never made a 5/32 inch pin but I did make some 1/8 inch pins. I found all of the material needed at a local hardware store. This was like an Ace Hardware or one of the small ones like that. I was only able to find brass, copper or aluminum tubing, round or square and only music wire, which is a carbon steel. I only used the brass tubing and of course the music wire. You can fit what you need for construction right there in the store if you need to. I must admit, that is what I did.

As far as construction went, what I dd was this. I had one large wire for the center inside of a square tube. The square tube was slid inside of a round tube. Both tubes were 12 inches long. The center wire was 24 inches long. I also put four very small wires between the square tube (one on each of the flat sides) and the outer round tube. These were 24 inches long as well. I dyed the epoxy black. You can get this from Brownell's or from one the places mentioned above. I assembled the whole works together. Now remember, I have 12 inches of wire left over. Put the epoxy on the wires and on the square tubing. A third hand would be handy. In other words, slide the square tube out about 6 inches or so and put epoxy on it and all the wires. Slide the round tube over the epoxied wires and square tubing by about 6 inches or so and epoxy that side. Slide it back over a few inches the other way and epoxy again if needed. Leave about 6 inches of the wire out on both side until it sets up and hardens somewhat. I usually leave it a couple of hours any way. When you go to cut the excess wires off, I used a dremel tool with a cut off wheel. I also used this to cut the actual mosaic pin later as well. This way I am sure not crack the epoxy or distort the mosaic pattern.

I have never had a problem with bubbles doing it this way. Granted, I waste about a foot of wire this way but it worked very well for me.

The other suggestion that I have is if you are going to do this, make as many pins at a time that you can. While you are doing it, you might as well make it worth your time. Just making one pin at a sitting is barely worth it and while you are set up to do it, you might as well make a few. It actually doesn't take that long once you are set up.

CLWilkins
 
Tip: if you are making mosaic pins instead of trying to slide everyhting together with epoxy, put everything inside your final tube, they should all fit pretty snug, then buy a peice of CLEAR vinyl tubing and hook it over the end with a tube clamp, now mix up all your epoxy in a cup or container and suck the epoxy up your mosaic tube, when you start to see it in the clear tubing, clamp the tube shut by bending it over and clamping it with a c clamp, make sure not to lift your other end out of the epoxy..

This keeps a little of the mess down and when it dries all you have to do is cut off that last inch or so of clear tubing and start on the next one..

I also found that this keeps the bubbles to a minimum becasue you are drawing the liquid up versus trying to pour it in the tubes and get air traped inside...

I also use 5 minute epoxy because I dont really have a problem with curing time, dye it black with waterproof india ink, and marm the whole syringe type aplicator under hot water before using so that the epoxy is a little thinner and easier for air to escape...

Hope I could help, Alan Folts..
 
Alan,
That sounds a lot "neater" than the method that I used. On the next "pin making" session, I am definitely going to give that a try.

I guess that is what Q & A bulletin boards are all about. You probably just taught this old dog a new trick!

CLWilkins
 
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