Most stain-resistant "premium" stainless?

B

Bowzer

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Sep 24, 2003
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I have a question regarding which "premium" stainless(VG-10, ATS-34, BG-42, etc.) is the most rust resistant while still retaining other desirable qualities like edge-holding and ease of sharpening. The application here would be for a smallish folder (perhaps 2 to 4 inches) carried on one's person where sweat and humidity would be a factor.

Any experts out there on this one?
 
I would probably go for 440c if stainless were my biggest concern. It's not a newer "super steel" but still a premium steel that is used by custom makers and several higher end production companies.

If you're not as worried about price look for something in Talonite.

Any of the premium stainless steels are going to offer good rust resistance though. I live in a humid area in the summer, sweat like anyone and have never had a problem with rust with a minor amount of maintenance.
 
VG-10 seems to resist rust/ staining very well, as dose BG-42. Both seem to be about comparable to 440C.




- Frank
 
You might also consider a Boker Gemini folder with X-15 steel blade (Skipper or Angler models). This steel apparently has some nitrogen in it and is promoted as being more rust resistant than any of the common stainless steels, similar to the H1 steel used in the Spyderco Salt. I recently acquired one to carry while offshore saltwater fishing and while jogging (where it gets drenched with sweat) and with minimum care (fresh water rinse and dry after saltwater or sweat exposure) it has yet to show any rust or discoloration. The handle is ABS plastic and the liner lock is thin, although secure on my sample, so I would not consider it a "tactical knife", but it is certainly sturdy enough that I don't feel unarmed when carrying it. It's also relatively inexpensive at around $45-$50, similar to the Spyderco Salt.
 
Thank you folks for your replies! I would definitely like to try out the Spyderco Salt I and see how it fares. I have had some minor rust problems on my current Spyderco Navigator (in VG-10) that have stopped me from continuing to carry it to work as I do not want it to be a pile of rust. The rust was inside the thumb hole and about half of it came off after a light wiping with WD-40. I like the fact that the Salt I looks a lot like an Endura or Delica. Now if Spyderco would only make a Native in H1!
 
I am told that with modern cutlery steels, 440C is still the bench mark with stain resistance. S30V (not sure who I'm quoting) was supposedly designed to match the stain resistance of 440C and the edge holding of D2.

A guide would be to look at the chemical content. 13-14% chrome is apparently the magical threshold figure for the steel to become truly stain-"less". 440C and S30V have something like 18% chrome, so well above the threshold. D2 is 11-12% chrome(just under) and the favourite steels like ATS-34 and AUS8 apparently have 14% chrome(just there). In the field, it becomes noticable, the stain resistance of 440C is far greater. Elements like nickel, cobalt do enhance stain resistance, but the main star is still the chrome content.

Unless you are using titanium, ceramic or a cobalt alloy, all steel blades will eventually stain... Jason.
 
If its not going to be around salt or other very corrosive stuff I wouldn't worry about it to much.My 440V Military would get light rust stots on it around the hole in the summer.I would just clean it off with militec once every week or 2.
If you need a good edge holding steel H1,from what I have read does not hold a edge very well.This may be a good trade off if you are useing it in and around salt water though.
 
Keep in mind, the inside edge of hole opening knives are typically not as finished as the rest of the knife/blade. In fact, most I have seen short of custom pieces (and the BM 806) were just left in the condition they were cut.

This leaves a lot of textured surface to gather moisture and eventually rust.

In the past I have cleaned up my opening holes a bit just to smooth them out and solved this problem, a diamond rod works well for this.
 
What all you guys are failing to mention is that the finish of the blade determines its rust resistance as well. A stone-washed or bead blasted finish will rust more readily than a polished blade, regardless of the steel.

I have found S30V to be very good at resisting rust - unless it's a bead blasted finish - then it rusts like it was carbon steel!
 
I think I mentioned that regarding the rust in a thumb hole.

But, are you trying to say that just because a piece is bead blasted it becomes less rust resistant?

No, it has the same rust resistance, you just have to be more careful with it because there are more areas for moisture/acidic oils/salts to take hold and cause rust.

Higher maintenance because of bead blasting yes, less rust resistant no.

One advantage bead blasting has over other smooth finishes is that any oils you put on to protect the blade will stay in place longer.

Also, Stonewashed finish is really no different than a hand rubbed or satin finish in terms of the scratches in the blade. Just visually the scratches go all different directions instead of in a uniform pattern.
 
Originally posted by cpirtle
But, are you trying to say that just because a piece is bead blasted it becomes less rust resistant?
Click to expand...

Semantics aside, I am saying the same thing you are.

Bead blasted finishes allow rust to form more easily. The steel itself is not inclined to rust more, but the finish itself allows more rust to form.

One advantage bead blasting has over other smooth finishes is that any oils you put on to protect the blade will stay in place longer.
Click to expand...

Not in my experiences. Bead blast blades have always allowed some rust to form in the rough surface, regardless of the frequency and/or quality of lube applied.

I can carry a smooth (polished) carbon blade and a beadblasted S30V blade, both with the same lube and under the same conditions, and my S30V will develop small areas of surface rust long before the carbon steel will.
 
How well does 154cm resist rust? I was under the impression that it was about as good as 440c in this respect, but it also held an edge longer.
 
154CM and ATS-34 don't resist corrosion as well as 440C. The chrome content determines that.

Regarding the finish, I find that bead blasting works well on stainless steels - I use it regularly on 440C and RWL-34. This is different from sand-blasting which creates the darker, very grey low-glare appearance. This then has to be baked with some kind of clear lacquer type finish to prevent corrosion. Sandblasting increases the surface area 20-30x

If the bead blast is done properly, it entails "shot-peining" the surface, not abrading it. Technically, it increases the surface hardness by work-hardening it. Purely theoretical, but what is clear is that it resists scratching far better, eg.- by kydex sheaths. But yes, it still does increase the surface area somewhat. But again, to clarify, bead blast is NOT sand-blast. Jason.
 
As long as we are talking premium materials why not consider the cobalt alloys, talonite and Stellite 6K. Neither contain iron and are stain Proof.
 
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