Mother of Pearl

E

ErikD

Joined
Dec 5, 2000
Messages
1,875
I am currently working on putting together a folder kit. I am using MOP scales, and in one of them I can see a very small crack. It is a hairline and doesn't go all the way through the piece. Is there anything I can do while working it to help ensure it doesnt get worse and/or split the scale completely? Thanks for any help.
 
I'd call the outfit I bought it from and see if I could send it back. If they won't take it and send you some new scales, maybe you should put some thin super glue in the crack before you start working on it.
 
Cracks in pearl are quite common. This is why I like to pick my pearl out first hand so I know what I am getting. The pearl is graded and the higher grades like Presentation (has no cracks) and A+ may have a few cracks that dont go all the way thru are worth the extra money IMO. If you use the scales that you have, make sure you line up the scales so you can cut off the places that look questionable although this is no guarantee that more cracks wont be there later. If the scales are already precut you can use super glue like Michael suggested but be very carefull when working around that area. Especially when you get to the buffer area. I once had a pearl knife that was damm near completed and went to buff the scales and there were all sorts of small cracks in the pearl where the scales and the liner joined. When I was done buffing, the buffer had ripped alot of the cracks open. Made me sick and I had to flute the inside of the scales all the way around both sides to hide the problem. I would hand sand your scales to as fine a grit as you can take it too so you wont need to do much buffing at all. Also when buffing, only buff into the liner if this makes sense. This will require that you have the 2 halves of the knife apart. Be carefull not to buff/round off any areas that dont need rounding, like where the backspacer meets the liner etc. If you buff the knife while it all together you run the risk of what happened to me. As you buff into the liner on one side the buffer is trying to pull the pearl away from the other side and you run the risk of it ripping those cracks open. Also reguarding the buffer. It's probably the most dangerous tool in my shop. Make sure you really hold onto the parts you are putting in there. It has a tendency to rip things out of your hand in a heartbeat.
 
Michael, I can't really send it back, as I am fairly certain that I caused the crack. This is my first time working with pearl, so I guess live and learn. I will try the superglue trick, hopefully I will be able to get it to work out for me.
 
Well as soon as I touched the spot with the small crack a chunk busted out of the scale. It wasn't really all that deep, so I just rounded out the scales a bit more than I had planned, and you can't even tell a chunk was missing.:D So I am happy enough, as long as I can get the opposite side to get set without any problems.


That said, I don't really like working with MOP so much. It seems very fragile and expensive to boot. But it also looks great on a nice gents knife like how I am making this one, so I guess it is a trade off.
 
Erik, I forgot to mention that you have to wear a respirator when working that stuff!!
It's super nasty for you!
 
That busting out is what I was talking about earlier. Easy to do with stress cracks either induced or not. Unfortunately you have to do it to learn what not to do. Also working with pearl I use brand new drill bits and back the work up with something underneath it or you will blow out the back side,or front side depending on which side you are drilling.
 
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