Motor advice please, I ordered a coote belt grinder yesterday

I

Ilovetoolsteel

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Jul 28, 2003
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I'm getting the 2x72 wwith a 10" contact wheel. I am thinking a 1.5 hp motor should do, I know I need a farm duty as opposed to a compressor duty motor, What else should I look for?
 
Try to finance a set of step pulleys if a variable speed setup is not in the budget. Not as variable ...but certainly better than a single speed. You may buy the pulleys from Beaumont . It's worth the extra 20 bucks or so. I have a Coote and use it a lot along with a KMG
 
I love my Coote! I have a 1HP motor and I've never stalled it. Definitely get the step pulleys. I got mine from Norm and then found out that my motor had a bigger diameter shaft, so I had to order another one from Beaumont, but the speed variability is WELL worth the $$. Also, plan on putting plate glass or that ceramic stuff over your platen. It's aluminum and I had to flatten mine with about 30 minutes of draw filing after making just a couple knives on it.
 
Yep, Burr King furnishes their AC motored grinders with 1 HP(the model 960's anyway). You can't stall them.
If you were getting DC variable speed then I'd say 1.5hp was needed but not with AC.

If you grind properly and let the "proper" abrasive do the job you'll never have a problem.
 
I have a 1hp 220 VAC 3ph (VFD converts to 1ph)variable speed motor on my disc. :D I LOVE IT.:D I also have a 1hp DC that works OK but does not have the speed control of the AC and bogs down much faster esp at slower speeds. A good speed controller for the DC is very expensive as is the Motor, $400 plus each. 3-phase motors are easy to get on ebay, got 3, 1 brand new, for less than $150 delivered. The VFD controller new for a 2 hp is about $350. If you look long enough you can get one off ebay also but it may take a while. Just missed one for about $200. I have converted all my machines to 3-phase and power them off one VFD. Just change plugs.

Chuck
 
As you can tell from my last post I agree that if at all possible you should go ahead and get the variable speed.
 
I am not really sure what the difference is between "farm duty" and "Compressor duty". Can anyone clarify for me? It is probably too late since I have just about finished putting my 10x72 Coote together with a 2hp single phase that I bought here in Britain, but it would be nice to know.

How hot do you expect motors to get? Hearing you mention duty I wondered whether that explained why mine ran so hot?

I got my pulleys from Norm, he was able to get me one with a 1" bore and make a little steel shim so that it would fit the 24mm motor shaft that seems to be standard on motors that size over here. The one thing that I didn't think of was the size of the key way. The feather key fitted to the motor was 8mm wide, and the US made pulley had a keyway for a 1/4" key. I had to get the key specially machined so everything would fit together.
 
Compressor duty is rated for short bursts of activity: initiall fill up of tank and occasional refills, as one uses air.

Farm duty is continuous duty motor: you can run it for hours.

In the US, HF carries a VeRY decent 1HP 110/220V motor, farm duty TEFC,
for $89 - 20%. I just bought it this past weekend, in store, and replaced sh*tty 7Amp "3/4" HP motor in me Craftsman bandsaw. Night and day (15Amp vs 7A).
 
A C Richards said:
As you can tell from my last post I agree that if at all possible you should go ahead and get the variable speed.
Click to expand...

I see myself doing it in the future but for right now I think a stepped pulley setup is what I can swing.
 
rashid11 said:
Compressor duty is rated for short bursts of activity: initiall fill up of tank and occasional refills, as one uses air.

Farm duty is continuous duty motor: you can run it for hours.

In the US, HF carries a VeRY decent 1HP 110/220V motor, farm duty TEFC,
for $89 - 20%. I just bought it this past weekend, in store, and replaced sh*tty 7Amp "3/4" HP motor in me Craftsman bandsaw. Night and day (15Amp vs 7A).
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up on the HF motor. I'm going to check that out this weekend.
 
Chiro75 said:
I love my Coote! I have a 1HP motor and I've never stalled it. Definitely get the step pulleys. I got mine from Norm and then found out that my motor had a bigger diameter shaft, so I had to order another one from Beaumont, but the speed variability is WELL worth the $$. Also, plan on putting plate glass or that ceramic stuff over your platen. It's aluminum and I had to flatten mine with about 30 minutes of draw filing after making just a couple knives on it.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info on the platen. I remember seeing a thread about ceramic liners somewhere around here. I will have to check it out.

O.T. I know it's a haul from where you live but did you get to wolverine knife show last weekend?
 
rashid11 said:
Compressor duty is rated for short bursts of activity: initiall fill up of tank and occasional refills, as one uses air.

Farm duty is continuous duty motor: you can run it for hours.

In the US, HF carries a VeRY decent 1HP 110/220V motor, farm duty TEFC,
for $89 - 20%. I just bought it this past weekend, in store, and replaced sh*tty 7Amp "3/4" HP motor in me Craftsman bandsaw. Night and day (15Amp vs 7A).
Click to expand...
"Compressor duty" means that the motor was designed for applications requiring high startup and breakdown torque. Many "compressor duty" motors are rated for continuous use. However , most have ODP (open, drip proof) frames; you are much better off using a TEFC (totally enclosed, fan cooled) frame motor on a grinder.
 
I have to amend what I said above in my first post. 1 HP motors work great when they're wired for 220V. 120 is just too much of a load on the windings for lenghty use in most cases. They will keep kicking back to the starting windings and that motor will get too hot to touch. Not a good thing, and it's real close to the maximum on your house wiring and probably exceeds it often. That's not a good thing either.:eek:

Whenever you have the choice, always wire 220V. Uses half the amperage as 120 and handles the load much better for the motor.

It's not that costly to put in, or even to have put in, if you don't feel up to the job yourself.

In my shop, anything over 3/4HP is run on 220. I ran a HF 1HP bandsaw at 120V, about four times and the motor went south. Never again. That same bandsaw is running on 220V now.
 
I run my 2 hp farm duty motor on 110V currently, haha! It never bogs down but occasionally under heavy load with trip my breaker, as its maximum draw is about .5 amps over my breaker in my apartment. No big deal at all....

Come june ill be in the new house and will rewire for 220v and I have plans to make a hang-below motor mount to save benchspace
 
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