Mousepad/Sandpaper sharpening

N

NWIFSER

Joined
Jan 16, 2005
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Well I posted it at the end of my "New Abuser" thread, but that was sorta getting off topic, about technique and all. Well anyway, back to the problem at hand.

My natural stones cannot handle sharpening the Khukuri.
Mousepad/Sandpaper is I hear the easiest way for someone like me who would rather not spend a bundle on a sharpening kit (at least until I get another Khukuri!) to sharpen their Khuks. I have never used this type of sharpening method before. Could someone please enlighten me as to how I should go about doing this for a Khukuri. I have a 12" Sirupati.

Thanks to everyone, in advance.
 
Dan did a great sharpening cd, it explains every thing. he did a great job(lots of pictures) at it as well. Fair warning - it's a developed skill. Email Dan , send him a check to cover his cost and there is your solution.....
 
brantoken....thanks. unfortunately, I've stopped production on the CD...hoping to get a new one out. I'm flattered there seems to be so much interest lately....I'll be sure to post it when it's finished.

I've just posted the info on how to sharpen with sandpaper...can't remember where, but it's in a thread in this forum....
 
hehehe...lotsa new baby sharks needing to keep their teeth sharp Dan...
 
I hopped down to the local hardware store today and picked up some wet&dry in all the grits they had; 260, 360, 500, 800, 1000 (no 2000 unfortunately)

Seeing as this would be my 1st sharpening let alone a convex with this method, I thought it would be better to start on the karda 1st.

I sawed off a block of wood; 1,5"x2"x3" and stuk an old piece of mouse mat to it with woodglue.
I used the described method of rubbing the blade down the block from back to edge untill I could feel a small bur along the whole blade, then proceded to do the other side, working through finer grits until I was at 1000.

Well after my 1st try going through this, I'm pretty pleased.
The karda's a lot sharper than stock and will cut through tuff beaf, rubber and paper like a hot knife through butter :)

I'm sure it could be sharper though(it won't shave my legs yet :P ), but practice makes perfect.

Next will be a kitchen knife and if that works out, the khuk's up for a workout.

Thanks for all the info!

ps
Is 2000 grit neccesary for sharpening or is it more to create a polished edge?
 
2000 will just give you a more polished edge. I hardly ever go past 1000 for utility stuff.

A good place to find high grit sandpaper is automotive stores--check in the paint and body section.
 
Not sure I understand your question exactly. It's a stropping motion, almost like you are wiping the blade off on a piece of sandpaper.
 
hmm, im not sure on the deffintion of stroping, like is he just taking it down one side of the blade at a time in its bane?
 
If you've ever seen a barber sharpen a straight razor on a piece of leather, it's the same motion. You lay the blade over on its side on the sandpaper, and basically wipe it along the sanpaper with the spine leading the movement, and then do the same thing on the other side of the blade.
 
This pic shows it pretty well:

soft.gif
 
That's the right idea.

Just remember you don't have to wipe the entire face of the blade...just a small micro-bevel near the edge.
 
Now I'm more confused.

First I used the "regular" stropping motion, but then I read (maybe on the CD?) that that direction was only used on the belt grinder and that the hand sandpaper sharpening was done along the edge with the grain of the metal.

Now we're back to going perpendicular to the edge -- is this just for the very final stropping?

:confused: :footinmou
 
You can use either.

My personal preference is to sand along the edge for a more uniform sharpening. The mousepad method (which works great for regular knives) goes perpendicular to the edge.

Parallel works better for me in 2 ways. 1 - better conforming to the edge = quicker sharpening touch-up. 2 - scratches that go lengthwise on a blade look better and are easier to hide.
 
For me with the blade facing me I start at the end near the handle. Then pulling away from me, but trying to keep the blade perpendicular to the strop with sandpaper I pull the away from me and down the length to the tip. Then I turn it over and starting at the tip I pull the blade toward me and down the length to the handle.

Since it is somewhat trickier to get the right angle on the end of the blade, I usually go back and re do the last 3" of the tip till I get it to shave. Also sometimes I have to use a narrower strip of mouse pad and sandpaper to get the curved portion.

Unless it is dog dull, or the edge is super uneven I usually start with 400 and end up with 600. I usually use 600 for touch up.

Dan mentions just sharpening the bevel. A lot of times if the one I get has an uneven edge I will go ahead and sharpen more of the edge than just the bevel. This has a tendency to scuff up the blade some. However when I do this I then use the 800 then 1500 grit and it polishes that part back out. I think sometimes, depending on the blade , sharpening starting farther back on the edge seems to produce a finer and more easier to maintain edge, for me at least.
 
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