Moving my sharpening beyond the Spyderco Sharpmaker

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Von Aether

Joined
Jun 30, 2011
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I have been lurking, reading and (infrequently) posting on BladeForums for quite a while. One piece of wisdom I picked up from this subforum was what a mess my pull through sharpener was making to my knives. After some more reading I ended up buying a used Spyderco Sharpmaker. I picked this sharpener since, from what I read, it was a sharpening tool that would provide good results with a minimum learning curve. Simply using the medium and fine rods in the Sharpmaker has made a dramatic difference in my knives. Knives have been restored to what I consider a decent, functional sharpness (i.e. can easily produce a clean cut in printer paper).

At this point I want to improve my sharpening abilities and capabilities. I'm seeking some advice from this forum as to what I should pursue next to move beyond the basic sharpening capabilities of my Sharpmaker. I've thought of picking up the Sharpmaker Ultra Fine rods. But there's also free hand sharpening, so should I pick up some diamond benchstones? A strop? Other options? Lots to consider. I'm tapping into the collective wisdom of the forum to pick a path forward.

Here's an overview of my current blade collection to give an idea of what I would be sharpening, if that makes any difference:

Henckel Pro S kitchen knives
Benchmade, Spyderco, Kershaw and SAK folders
Mora fixed blades
Gerber pack axe
 
I would think a strop; I have the ultra-fine rods and I just don't think they make all that much difference. My strop really finishes the edge from a sharp edge to a "be careful with that" edge. I use a white compound (coarser) and a green (finer); I plan to change it to black (courser than white) and white. Green compound just seems too fine for what I look for.
 
I started out with Lansky rods, then a SM. :yawn:

Then I bought the Edge-Pro Apex. It was like going from a Sopwith Camel to an F-22.:thumbup::):thumbup:
 
I went trough the same thing first Arkansas stones, than Edge Pro, Work Sharp KO

Now I have a 1x42” belt sander ceramic rod and horse hide strop, this set up is really fast and razor sharp result
 
The sharpmaker is a long skinny sharpening stone, arranged so that you can hold a steady angle easily.
If you want to improve your skills one step further, get some kind of bench stone, so that you control the angle.

Having said that, I use a Fallkniven diamond/ceramic pocket stone for pocket knives & Fiskars hatchet. Learning to use a pocket stone well would be another path to a new useful skill.
 
I would suggest two purchases:

Spyderco 204D diamond rods - this will enable you to set the edge in about half the time compared to the medium stones. Set out the learn how to produce sharp edges off of the diamond rods (light pressure works best so you do not dislodge the diamond particles). That way when you move on to the medium, you are only refining the edge which should easily be able to shave after the flat side of the medium stones if you started with a sharp edge from the diamond rods. Then you can continue to refine the edge as far as you want to up to the flats of the white rods.

Next is for your Mora and Gerber Pack Axe

A Norton two sided Carborundum stone like this which will help repair damage quickly on your axe and provide a good start before moving to your Sharpmaker stones in the position shown in the DVD instruction to sharpen pinking sheers. You may find that with good technique you will not even bother going to the Sharpmaker stones for your Moras or Axe.
 
I think I'm kind of where you are. Looking for the next step or just something different maybe.

I use a DMT Aligner, it's like the Lansky with the guide rods. It does a pretty good job and I've been happy with the results. The downside is I feel I need to clean the stones after every use. I also worry about repeatability, making sure the blade is in the clamp where it was last time, ect.

I also have a SharpMaker. I was also happy with it's results. That is, after I adapted a two handed technique. Again, I feel I have to clean the rods after every use.

Both of these systems require you to move the knife. After two or three knives, I'm ready to quit.

I watched a video, I believe it was Benchmade, and was surprised they used a belt to sharpen their knives in the factory. So I started looking at powered options. I came across the Ken Onion WorkSharp here on BladeForums. Here's a video that gives you an idea how it works. There are a few others out there. I like this one.

[video=youtube_share;4I4sGdIE27Y]http://youtu.be/4I4sGdIE27Y[/video]

It might be worth looking into for the money. There is a separate tool grinding attachment that would work well for an ax, but I think simply removing the angle guide would work just fine.

If you have a higher budget a Wicked Edge or Edge Pro would be on my list.

Good luck on what ever you choose.
 
Definitely get the diamond and the ultra fine Spyderco rods. Or just get the ultra fine rods and do this

20131220_093344_resized_1_zpscad53159.jpg


I picked up the diamond hones at a gun show for around $20 for the lot and they have made it so damn easy to re profile!

Put some red dry erase marker on the edge and start dragging your blade across the stones, get to a true 40 deg edge and then work your brown stones until you can easily shave with it. Then move on to your fine and ultra fine stones.

I have a Wicked Edge and an Edge Pro but I learned quite a bit from my Sharpmaker and still love using it for touch ups.
 
Von Aether said:
At this point I want to improve my sharpening abilities and capabilities...

Here's an overview of my current blade collection to give an idea of what I would be sharpening, if that makes any difference:

Henckel Pro S kitchen knives
Benchmade, Spyderco, Kershaw and SAK folders
Mora fixed blades
Gerber pack axe
Click to expand...


You can improve your capabilities in a variety of ways, but to really improve your abilities implies a shift to freehand sharpening. There is nothing more convenient or ultimately as useful. Waterstones offer one of the better mediums, but a humble Norton India or Crystalon stone, the coarse/fine stones offered by Razor's Edge, will all do a good job. The Arashiyama 1k and 6k waterstones come highly recommended by Knifenut (has lots of quality videos on youtube under MrEdgy), I've had very good luck with my Norton waterstones. I sell a full service sharpening block through the link in my signature that you might find interesting - many good options to choose from.

Bottom line, I would seriously consider learning to freehand your work before spending anything on a guided or powered system. You might eventually find your way back to that, but in all reality is overkill for maintaining just your own cutlery and maybe some stuff for friends and family on occasion. Also only improves your capabilities, not your abilities, so only accomplishes half your objective.
 
diamond rods, ultrafine rods, and a balsa strop with CrOx or the knivesplus strop block would be my next investment for your sharpening setup.
 
I started out with a Spyderco Sharpmaker and a couple of leather strops. From there it was freehand with Japanese Waterstones. My Sharpmaker is still in use (all stones through Ultra Fine), but free hand on waterstones has become my sharpening method of choice. Of course the edge is still finished up on a strop after my highest grit stone (5,000). This produces a hair whittling mirror edge for me.
 
Personally, I'd follow HeavyHanded and JSMCustoms' advice. I still use a Sharpmaker frequently, but I can also freehand if I want to and that skill does come in handy when I'm away from my Sharpmaker. The same thing's going to be true of any guided system that you have to set up.
 
The only way i sharpen my knives is the Murray Carter way wich involves freehand sharpening on Japanese waterstones .... u dont have to depend on gadgets and jigs to do the work for you. Of course it takes practice but once learned i believe is a very valuable and helpful skill to know. I highly reccomend murray carters sharpening videos. I remember the first night i watched his video i went to sharpen a blade and it would cut threw paper like a laser beam! I was amazed that i did that with my first time sharpening and was a very rewarding experience!
 
I went with an edge pro to start, loved the results and disliked the amount of time it took. Got some freehanding in with some stones and heavyhanded's washboard, now I'm going for the paperwheels.

Bottom line is learn to freehand/understand the fundamentals of sharpening, then choose a system that best fits your needs.
 
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