mullein on mullein hand-drill help?

[JV3]

i've gotten several coals with bow-drill so i figured it's time to move on to hand drill...what's going on here? this is an all mullein setup that i harvested a year ago that was already dead-standing and been sitting in the garage since then so it's super dry. the drill's bark is eating up the base so i stripped it off but both sides are still getting cupped...seems like the drill's center is way too soft and the shell is way too hard?

am i setting it up the wrong way or using the wrong parts of the stem? i first make the drill pointy like a pencil and make a pilot hole in the base board with the tip of my knife like how i would do a bow-drill setup.

 

[Woods Walker]

i've gotten several coals with bow-drill so i figured it's time to move on to hand drill...what's going on here? this is an all mullein setup that i harvested a year ago that was already dead-standing and been sitting in the garage since then so it's super dry. the drill's bark is eating up the base so i stripped it off but both sides are still getting cupped...seems like the drill's center is way too soft and the shell is way too hard?

am i setting it up the wrong way or using the wrong parts of the stem? i first make the drill pointy like a pencil and make a pilot hole in the base board with the tip of my knife like how i would do a bow-drill setup.

Maybe tie the two mullein sticks together. Here I got a coal with mullein on mullein but it also works great with a wooden spindle for bowdrill. I have no clue if this will work for hand drill however.

 

[Codger_64]

I am thinking that it is the woody outer that makes the friction and fire, so maybe try a harder hearth for the mullin spindle.

 

[DOC-CANADA]

Hey JV3. Personally, I don't like Mullein, although a lot of others do. I prefer Teasel (Dipsacus sylvestris) and Jerusalem Artichoke ( Helianthus tuberosus). When you use a weedy plant like those above, it always has a softer centre and you will get the situation you describe above. BTW, I normally use a hand drill with a wood base - my favourite - Basswood (Tilia americana)

Once again, I can't tell you much about Mullein because I've only used it a few times, but it seems that the time of year you collect Teasel determines the thickness of the "hard outside wall" relative to the diameter - the thicker, the better. The longer it has been standing dead, the thinner the wall seems.

Codger is correct about the "woody outer" being the working part.

When the "hill" in the centre of the divot gets too big, causing increased resistance to the drill, use the tip of a knife to pop it out. You can also remove some of the hearth in the centre of the divot before you start drilling.

And because pictures are always good, here's a couple of kgd (you might remember him ) getting his first hand drill coal. If you read the rest of the thread, ignore kgd's pictures and lack thereof. It seems that he deletes them after a time.

Good luck! And if you still have problems, you can always come up for a visit.

Doc

Thought I would add this - in a survival situation, except under very special circumstances, such as in the winter with an abundance of dead plants and dry air, I wouldn't waste time trying to do a hand drill fire - bow drill is the way to go - easier on you and you benefit from the mechanical advantage of the bow. Although nothing makes your day faster than a successful hand drill coal.

And one other thing: "JV3 said: i first make the drill pointy like a pencil and make a pilot hole in the base board with the tip of my knife like how i would do a bow-drill setup." Instead of making a small divot in the hearth like you do for bow drill, carve a dish shape in the hearth in which to place the drill.

 

[JV3]

Maybe tie the two mullein sticks together. Here I got a coal with mullein on mullein but it also works great with a wooden spindle for bowdrill. I have no clue if this will work for hand drill however.

nice! i've seen mistwalker do the same thing. i'll try that one too for when the hearth isn't wide enough.

I am thinking that it is the woody outer that makes the friction and fire, so maybe try a harder hearth for the mullin spindle.

thanks! i still have some cottonwood that the4gotten sent me years ago (where i got my first bow drill coals with) and i'll give that a go with hand drill.

Hey JV3. Personally, I don't like Mullein, although a lot of others do. I prefer Teasel (Dipsacus sylvestris) and Jerusalem Artichoke ( Helianthus tuberosus). When you use a weedy plant like those above, it always has a softer centre and you will get the situation you describe above. BTW, I normally use a hand drill with a wood base - my favourite - Basswood (Tilia americana)

Once again, I can't tell you much about Mullein because I've only used it a few times, but it seems that the time of year you collect Teasel determines the thickness of the "hard outside wall" relative to the diameter - the thicker, the better. The longer it has been standing dead, the thinner the wall seems.

Codger is correct about the "woody outer" being the working part.

When the "hill" in the centre of the divot gets too big, causing increased resistance to the drill, use the tip of a knife to pop it out. You can also remove some of the hearth in the centre of the divot before you start drilling.

And because pictures are always good, here's a couple of kgd (you might remember him ) getting his first hand drill coal. If you read the rest of the thread, ignore kgd's pictures and lack thereof. It seems that he deletes them after a time.

Good luck! And if you still have problems, you can always come up for a visit.

Doc

Thought I would add this - in a survival situation, except under very special circumstances, such as in the winter with an abundance of dead plants and dry air, I wouldn't waste time trying to do a hand drill fire - bow drill is the way to go - easier on you and you benefit from the mechanical advantage of the bow. Although nothing makes your day faster than a successful hand drill coal.

And one other thing: "JV3 said: i first make the drill pointy like a pencil and make a pilot hole in the base board with the tip of my knife like how i would do a bow-drill setup." Instead of making a small divot in the hearth like you do for bow drill, carve a dish shape in the hearth in which to place the drill.

thanks, doc! i'll try a wood base next. i still have a couple of cottonwood and poplar that worked with bow drill for me so i'll give them a shot with mullein. i'll go for another hike soon and i'll see if i can scrounge up some more suitable wood.

someday i'll come up for a visit (i have relatives up there in both coasts) but i'll have to toughen up my baby smooth hands first with this friction fire stuff