Muriatic acid not etching knife!?

eyeeatingfish

eyeeatingfish

Joined
Dec 9, 2003
Messages
4,817
I am trying to etch some beautiful "tiger mai" damascus from Baker Forge and the muriatic acid does not seem to be touching it at all and I cannot figure out why. Yes I know Ferric Chloride is more preferred but it is harder to find in Hawaii.

Here are the details for context:
Steel - 15n20/Bronze/1084/Copper cladding and a 80crv2 core
Temperature - High 70's to mid 80's
Chemical - Basic muriatic acid from hardware store
Blade finish - Sanded up to 800 grit on a trizact style belt. No buffing compound, polishes, or oils
Prep - Washed with soap and water then cleaned with acetone
Timing - Left the blade in for at least half hour and came out shiny still
Age of acid - A couple years but I did some 440C and S30V blades before this stuff and it etched fine. I even tried dumping the old stuff out and using fresh clear stuff. I also used it on stainless and carbon damscus steel from Vegas Forge as well.

Suggestions?
I have no idea why this stuff isn't touching the steel. Could some sort of film be formed on the blade from the bronze or copper being sanded? 800 grit shouldn't be too high right? I know some etchants work well when heated up a bit but it etched 440C and i'd rather not heat muriatic with the nasty fumes and all.
 
That metal mix will do much better with FC. Just order a pound of crystals from eBay and mix your own. It is pretty cheap that way. You can also make it with muriatic acid, steel wool, and peroxide (beauty shop strength). Just google it.

You didn't say what dilution you are using, but if the muriatic is the standard 20° concentration you should dilute it 10:1 and try again after sanding the blade again.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
That metal mix will do much better with FC. Just order a pound of crystals from eBay and mix your own. It is pretty cheap that way. You can also make it with muriatic acid, steel wool, and peroxide (beauty shop strength). Just google it.

You didn't say what dilution you are using, but if the muriatic is the standard 20° concentration you should dilute it 10:1 and try again after sanding the blade again.
Click to expand...
I did actually find a dealer on Amazon who would ship the powder but it got delayed. If they cancel on me I will keep trying to find a dealer.
I don't remember my previous concentration but I am guessing it was half acid half distilled water. When I dumped it out and tried again I forgot to dilute and it was straight from the jug. Would being too strong prevent it from doing anything? If so that seems very counterintuitive.
 
eyeeatingfish said:
Interesting. The first try was at least half water, half muriatic acid and it etched 440C but didn't touch this stuff. More water needed to work on carbon steel than stainless?
Click to expand...
Maybe you could try this ?

Phosphoric acid

Well , friend of me have auto body shop and he give to me this bottle with phosphoric acid ..I try it on steel and it works ...fast .Oxide layer seems to be very durable and constant color .Plus I can watch how things go on and I can stop whenever I think that I have good color .....It is...
www.bladeforums.com www.bladeforums.com
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top