museum replicas

I don't have one of their swords,I believe they used to carry Del-Tin swords a long time ago,which were higher quality pieces.If I recall my info correctly,I think this was discussed on Swordforums, when I used to frequent the site.I remember the consensus was that they didn't think highly of their blades except as for a non-functional aspect.I read posts that most of the blades were made in India and heat treat was spotty or non-existant.I heard some opinions that they were shabbly made.This is of course second hand info,and I have no personal opinion on it as I've never actually owned any of their pieces first hand.Sounds like maybe you got a good one,or maybe their quality has turned around.Hope this helps,Ralph

[This message has been edited by TOMBSTONE (edited 07-30-2000).]
 
I'm a member of a proffesional (that means "paid real money") Living History Group.
We fight with live steel blades, unbated, but dulled to an edge 1/16th inch wide or more. Points must be rounded to at least 1/4 inch.
*DO NOT try this at home, you can still be run through quite easily if you don't know what you're doing.*

Most of us use the Museum Replica blades for both weekly practice and performances.
I use the MR Pappenheimer Rapier. It's balance is vastly superior to that of the Hanwei (chinese made) version, though the two appear almost identical from a distance. *The MR version is also twice as expensive*
While many will disparage the Deepeeka (India made) and Hanwei blades as strictly ornamental, I can speak from personal experiance that these blades will also stand up well to REGULAR fighting use.
Every once in awhile, you'll get a stinker with a badly tempered blade, but most dealers will replace them almost immediately if the damage results from honest use.
Yes, Dueling is honest use, whacking treelimbs is NOT.
I personally suspect that the reason they so readily replace bad blades is that only 1 in 1000 buyers ever actually USES the blade they buy. Most just hang it on the wall and take it down for a few minutes of "Walter Mitty" shadow fencing. (Not throwing stones, I do it when there's no one REAL to fight with.)

BTW,
(Obligatory Disclaimer statements)
Before anyone goes nuts on me and tells me that what I do is unsafe,
biggrin.gif

No, we wear NO protective gear, only 17th century correct clothing appropriate to a Dragoon in the service of Colonel Walter Butler in the year 1632.
We have NEVER had a serious injury. *minor cuts and scrapes are not unheard of.*

We fight with a highly modified technique that while not choreographed or "stage" combat is intended to prevent serious injury.
The technique is real and sound.
I've gone toe to toe with an FMA Instructor and after a VERY fast and furious duel, finally managaged a very neat and clean "kill" on him.
We are trained, we are proffesional, and we have the advantage of a SwordsMaster as our instructor/trainer.
So DO NOT go buy a sword and start whacking away at each other! It's a pursuit for SERIOUS students only.

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I cut it, and I cut it, and it's STILL too short!




[This message has been edited by Ken Cook (edited 07-31-2000).]
 
When MR carried Del Tin the swords were pretty good. For me "made in India(what heat treat?)" is the kiss of death. You can buy Del Tin and others directly over the 'net, fortunately.

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The thorn stands to defend the Rose, yet it is peaceful and does not seek conflict
 
Museum Replicas was bought out by Windlass Steels of India some years back and discontinued selling the Del Tin swords, even thought they continued to use the Del Tin pictures in their catalogue. The Windlass products had quite an evil reputation for their quality control among the netizens for a long time, one that remains to this day. I have read that they have, of late, begun to improve their quality control, however. It remains to be seen just how much. I would not buy a sword from them, myself.

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Walk in the Light,
Hugh Fuller
 
Trust me Hugh, if you're looking for an inexpensive user, they're pretty good!
Like I said, you get a stinker every once in awhile, but their return policy is very good.
(I had one bend on me, sent it back and got a VERY well tempered one in return.)


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I cut it, and I cut it, and it's STILL too short!


 
I have a Ravenna MR sword I got circa 1 1/2 to 2 years back. You can probably date it because when I mailed the order, they did not come with sheaths. On arrival one had been included. It may well be fundamentally sound,
but I consider it more of a "kit" sword as mine desperately needed more work to finish it off. Very UNstraight edges.
 
Just my experience from last month...

I ordered the renaissance broadsword from them-looked spectacular in the catalog...when it came the hilt was very loose and rattling, the blade was mounted poorly, the "leather" grip was some sort of nu-vinylly thing that was falling off, and it had stamped right in the side of the blade in big letters "INDIA" like some sort of cheap calcutta airport souviner.

It was sent back within 15 min of my opening it. Theyre returns department were great though....I'd suggest shopping elsewhere for quality
 
Welcome to BFC Zeke!
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Yeah, I have to back up on myself a little bit and admit that my MR Pappenheimer required a little work to make it truly battle ready.
To fix the rattle in the hilt, I just put a small lead washer between the grip and the pommel. Haven't had a problem since then and it has the benefit of being a "period" fix.
I haven't had any experiance with the leather wrapped grips, everything I've bought always had the wire wrap, so I appreciate the "heads up" on it.
As for the INDIA stamp on the side, it comes of very easily with about 15 minutes and some 220 grit sandpaper.
I personally think you were a little rash in sending it back so fast, they may not be "museum quality" but I prefer bashing a 200 dollar sword around FAR more than clashing blades when it cost me 800 or 1000.
*What can I say? I'm CHEAP!*
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I cut it, and I cut it, and it's STILL too short!


 
To each his own indeed...I was just so shocked that they allowed such a bad product to leave their shop. I took the advice of those on other forums and ordered a Del Tin thrusting sword. Should be here in a couple of weeks. MRL really needs to do some quality control if they want to keep customers however, I know that my experience (and the comments of others) experiences have permanenty pushed me away.
 
Mrl is renowned for its shoddy furniture, poor heat treatment, and that great big old "India" stamped on the blade. Save yourself some trouble by saving your money and buying something from Del tin, Arms and Armor, or Angus Trim. You won't be sorry if you buy something from one of them, but you will almost certainly be sorry if you buy something from MRL.
 
I have three pieces from mrl. The Gothic Bastard sword, which needed the guard to be tightened. The Falcata which was in good order, but the edge was a bit rough. And finally a fantasy piece from the Robert Jordan series "The Wheel of Time". The blade is called the "Heron Mark". It has a Katana styled blade matched with with European Style hilt. The piece is really for decoration, but the craftsmanship is very good and there is no India stamp on the tang.

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SSgt Christopher Wardlow
USAF Security Forces
425th ABS Izmir Turkey
 
Ken
How well does the sword hold up?
From your posts I'm assuming you've gone through more than one.
Can you describe the condition of the sword after a certain amount of battle time?
As you say few of us actually get to use our swords in the manner that you do.
I've often wondered how they'd hold up to long hard use.


 
I stand corrected, or at least partially. I guess not every MRL sword has an "India" stamped on the blade. I still have heard to many things about the shoddiness of the heat treatment and workmanship to waste my hard earned money on them however. My advice to go get "something better" still stands.
 
Hey Tom,
You'd be VERY surprised at how well they hold up.
Of course, in combat, you try to parry "flat to flat" as anything else will quickly put some serious gouges in the edge of even the finest quality blade.
When these gouges appear (I pick up at least one new one almost every saturday.) they MUST be filed or ground out. ANY gouge, burr, or nick in the blade can open up an opponent as well as a sharpened blade, so it is imperative that the edges be flat, rounded, and SMOOTH. (They're inspected by a member of the safety commitee before each dueling session.)
I have both a Windlass Steel Swept Hilt, and a Hanwei Pappenheimer, and a highly modifed Hanwei Main Gauche.
The Swept hilt had served me for almost 6 months of twice weekly fighting. (several hours each session) before it lost it's temper.
Considering the level of use I'd put on it, I didn't feel it fair or ethical for me to send the blade back and ask for free replacement, so I did a "spot temper" on the blade myself and it turned out very nicely. Several months, and maybe 100 duels later, it softened in a different spot. I tried to spot temper again and unfortunately damaged the blade beyond repair in the process. (I bought a new, replacement blade for about 56 bucks, that one's still going strong.)

The blades nick up, and get all kinds of scratches in the surfaces but it always cleans up to "like new" appearance with a little judicious file work and some sandpaper.
The Pappenheimer has stood up to almost as much use now, and is still going QUITE strong, requiring only "edge dressing" to remove the nicks and gouges, it still looks new.
Of course, every time you dress the edge, the blade gets a little thinner. With use, the blade lightens to the point where you have WONDERFUL balance and your strokes and reverses attain LIGHTENING speed. (I'd say I lose .010 to .015 inches in blade width every time I de-burr and polish.
As I said, it needed a lead washer. I accomplished this by cutting open a OOO buckshot round and taking one piece of buckshot, hammering it flat with one blow, drilling a hole in it, and slipping the "washer" between grip and pommel. Since that time, it's never ONCE rattled or loosened.
To be honest, I'd happily go up against anyone with their Del Tin, or Sooperdooper handmade custom blade rapier with either sword.
My Gauche is a "frankenstein" with a rapier blade (The damaged blade I mentioned earlier) shortened to 21 inches, giving it almost the proportions of a shortened small sword. This makes it VERY difficult for someone to slip inside my off hand defense, and also has credited me several "kills" due to it's extra length.

I think the reason so many "poor quality" blades have slipped through, is that like anyone else, quality control depends on customer feedback.
If 999 out of a thousand swords sold is ever actually used for it's intended purposes, then no one will ever know if those 999 were well tempered or not. (I don't care how well tempered it is, if you whack treelimbs with it, or misuse it, you're going to damage the sword.)
Yes, I'd love to have a nice Del Tin, or something from Darkwood, or some of the better makers,. but the fact is, I spend my money on USERS and while I'm fairly comfortable financially speaking, I don't care to use such an expensive blade so hard.
I've seen almost every model of Hanwei and Deepeeka rapier and sword rapier put to hard use, (Our group numbers almost 30 members) and of all those users, I've seen 3, maybe 4 blades fail. Since most members have at least two swords, that gives a statistical basis of 60 or more swords.
4 out of 60 ain't bad.
I recommend them HIGHLY!

Triton,
Without belaboring the point,
Bring your1000 dollar custom blade to the dueling session, I'll bring my little 200 dollar "junker" and let's have at!
When the session is over, and your blade is nicked, notched, scratched, and RUINED because I insisted you dull the edge sufficiently to prevent injury to me, I'll be sympathetic to your face, but I'll grin when you turn your back and go grind the notches out of my blade to be ready for next week.
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Hanwei and Deepeeka are USERS, and unless you're wealthy, Del Tins and the like are not. They're just very well made and expensive wall hangers.
Who cares if it's great quality if you're afraid to use it for fear of damaging it?

Sounds to me like the difference between pretty wall hangers and a usable sword.




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I cut it, and I cut it, and it's STILL too short!


 
Sounds like it all depends on your definition of use. I agree you wouldn't want to use an expensive sword as a beater. On the other hand if you want to get a historically accurate sword that is within correct weight perameters, is properly balanced with the correct center or percussion, has a good distal taper and has a good heat treatment with a nice finish then I would not recommend deepeeka, vaciacraft, mrl, starfire, highland steele or similar makers. In fact for a beater I would recommend kris cutlery they cost in the same range as deepeka, vaciacraft, starfire, et al but they are properly heat treated and don't weigh as much. Of course they don't make a rapier...


As for my 1000 dollar custom blade, I don't own one I'm afraid. What I did do however was put off buying until I could afford a very nice production sword which is historically accurate which incidentally makes it an excellent performer. It did cost a bit more then 200 dollars but as they say, you get what you pay for.

I suppose it has occurred to you that maybe the reason that you take so much edge damage is that the blades are maybe a mite softer then they should be? Also why in the world should you have to "fix up" a sword after you get it? In my view fixing up a sword by adding washers, replacing cheesy grips, and sandpapering "Indias" is something that should never have to be done. In fact if you buy a good product in the first place it does not have to be done.
 
gotta agree w/ triton on this one...I would much rather spend an additional 50-100 bucks for a sword that doesn't need repairs done from the get-go.

I also see Kens point quite clearly...he likes MRL for what they are-beater swords that can be replaced (fairly cheaply) once they are used.

If I was depending on a sword for my life however, "Made in India" isn't what I would have in mind.
 
Ken Have you or others in your group try different swords costing more that gave unsatisfactory performance?
It's unfortunate that any of the models you use are bad but I can see why it happens-
since nobody actually uses a sword it's highly unlikely any will be sent back.
 
ken
Can you tell me a little more about the blade losing it's temper and how you spot temper it?
 
I thought that this post from another satisfied MRL customer might be educational...

This is a rundown of items I purchased:

1. Early Scottish Dirk- The wooden grip shrank in cold/dry weather to where it rotated about 45 degrees in either direction around the tang, making the weapon useless 6 months out of the year. Sold.

2. Irish Hilt Basket Hilt-The grip rotates ever so slightly around the tang. There is nickel-plating flaking off of the "all-steel" hilt. Kept it, with reservations (wall-hanger only).

3. Pappenheimer rapier- Loose wire wrap on the grip. Nickel-plating flaking off the "all-steel" hilt. Returned.

4. Renaissance dagger- nickel-plated "all-steel construction" hilt. The fillets on the grip were crooked. Returned (to their credit, they took it back after a year, when I found out it was plated. I may have said "false advertising lawsuit" or something)

5. Broadsword with double ring guard- Plated hilt, loose wire grap, bent and cracked side rings. The blade twisted about 30 degrees in either direction in its mounts.

All blades had the typical WS grind marks and wobbles. My last purchase was almost 2 years ago. Things may have improved.

ChadA
This was posted by "ChadA" at swordforum.com

[This message has been edited by Triton (edited 08-14-2000).]
 
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