mustard on 0-1

blgoode

blgoode

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Oct 3, 2003
Messages
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What exactly is this stuff and will it work on 0-1?
 
It's a condiment used mainly for sandwiches and hotdogs. It will work on 0-1, but I also recommend ketchup to hide the "steely" taste. :D


Sorry, but I couldn't resist. Yes, it works very well on 0-1 for creating a nice "patina." If you take some regular mustard on a rag and dab it onto your blade, you'll have a nice finish in about 30 minutes. If you do a search on mustard, you'll find a lot of information on the technique. Good luck.
 
Mustard contains vinegar which is acetic acid so you could use straight vinegar and save the mustard for the hotdogs.
 
Wayne Goddard had a bit about mustard treating in his Blade Mag column last year. If anyone wants to see it, email me and I'll send a copy.
 
think letting the blad sit in red meat juice will work also? For a mild patina?
 
Instead of faking the patina why don't you just let a patina develop on it's own ?
 
Instead of faking the patina why don't you just let a patina develop on it's own ?
Click to expand...

A) Because it looks good or at least gives a different non-shiny look
B) Because I can.
C) Most important when done right a patina - artificail or not - will give a protective coating.

And I never think of it as faking it - faking a patina in my lexiaon is for those that are trying to put something over on someone. Blueing or Browning or Etching (how I produce my patina) are all acepted practices and are never considered faking and are really nothing more than producing an artificial patination (heck browning is RUSTING the bloody thing and then stopping the rust - when done properly it adds a nice protective coat). Besides I never have cared all that much for shiny things so.....I can appreciate them but give me a well patinaed carbon steel blade anyday :D
One man's take anyway.
 
Chuck, I really dig the etching you've done with the Cactus Rose line....just love it.

The one disappointing part of the mustard is that it comes off real easy - a simple polishing or buff will wipe it right off. That's why I'm moving more towards etching...
 
Pen -
Thanks - and the way I do mine makes a very tough finish. You can stop it before it gets so deep yet it takes a good scrubbing with at least 320 grit and better 220 to get back to bare metal.
 
which is exactly what I'm looking for...

...not asking you to spill the beans, btw...

I just really like it...a lot...!!!
 
Pen -
I've already "spilled the beans" a couple of other times/places so....
I blue first with Birchwood Casey's Super Blue (NOT their Perma Blue) and while still wet I rub it smooth with 4/0 steel wool. I then immediately immeress the blade/fitting in straight Clorox Bleach for about 10-15 minutes fora deep etch - less time say 5 minutes for a less aggressive etch - you can always do it more if you want. Wash it in hot water and soap to kill the action (it looks like a rusted nightmare when taken from the Clorox bath). I then sand with a fine Scotchbrite pad to get it a bit bright looking - if you rub with steel wool it will stay darker - oil it and you're done.

BTW you can get a similar effect with just the bleach but it will take 4-5 hours or you can use ferric chloride - chlorine plus iron = ferric chloride. The blue/clorox though seems to give a tougher finish and in a very short time.

You can also apply this finish after the fact - a finished knife - by bluing the blade, steel wooling it, then wrapping the blade in a rag soaked in bleach and letting it sit - just make sure the cloth is pressed firmly against the steel or it will leave "bare patches". Finish up as above.

Finally use all safety precautions as you would working with any toxic chemicals.
 
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