My 3V Nessmuk is stained

M

MorningFox

Joined
Oct 26, 2008
Messages
29
Got a nessmuk in 3V last week. Came away on a trip at the weekend and performed wonderfully. I used it yesterday for a bbq and left some jerk marinade on a quarter of the blade towards the tip for about 10 minutes. After washing it the area where the marinade was had stained and looked about 15% darker than the rest.

This is not really a problem as the knife is a tool and not a showcase piece, I just thought that CPM 3V would be a bit more resistant to this. Especially as it was only left dirty for no more than 10 minutes.

I decided to try putting mustard on the rest of the blade to see what happened. Put a coating on for 7 minutes then washed it off, then did the same again and now its got a full patina!

Again I don't mind but just didn't think this would be the case with 3V, maybe I am just clueless?

Thought I'd do a brain fart about this anyway, its a great knife! Still awaiting a reply about another order but by the looks of it I am not the only one ;) I understand Dan must be a busy man but a reply about timing etc would be at least courteous.

Anyone else have patinas on there 3V koster blades? I kept mine off the scandi grind so it actually looks pretty nice :)

MF
 
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3V is not a stainless steel. In my own experience it is highly rust resistant. Your blade is simply taking a patina from the acids in the food you were preparing. If it really bothers you use some metal polish to remove the patina.
 
You seem to have completely missed everything I said. 1. I know its not stainless, just didn't expect it to have such a reaction when left for under 10 minutes. 2. I know what a patina is and have even forced one on to even it out. 3. It doesn't bother me. Please read posts before replying to them.
 
MorningFox said:
You seem to have completely missed everything I said. 1. I know its not stainless, just didn't expect it to have such a reaction when left for under 10 minutes. 2. I know what a patina is and have even forced one on to even it out. 3. It doesn't bother me. Please read posts before replying to them.
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So the point of your post was that you were surprised a carbon tool steel like CPM3V stained so quickly after having an acidic liquid left on it for 10 minutes. Got it.
 
Exactly. Obviously I don't have an all encumbering knowledge on the subject of steels. Was also interested in seeing patinas on other's koster 3V knives. But no worries you keep your hostility and I shall go about my day.
 
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MorningFox said:
Exactly. Obviously I don't have an all encumbering knowledge on the subject of steels. Was also interested in seeing patinas on other's koster 3V knives. But no worries you keep your hostility and I shall go about my day.
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No hostility....carry on with your day.
 
Glad you were able to get a patina on it...that should prevent rusting.

What I've always told people is that 3V will tarnish like any other carbon steel but is more resistant to actual rusting.

Make sense?

Dan
 
Yea no worries. I have read that 3V is a lot more resistant to rust and I guess I assumed it would be as resistant to staining. Anyway, no biggie the knife has character now. Again I am really happy with it - an excellent piece of work Dan. Would love to order more knives from you but don't hear a reply back from emails :(
 
I'm only in the shop part-time, Bro. I'll get a reply to your email asap.

Dan
 
I understand mate, I know all too well what its like to be busy. Look forward to knowing how long I have to wait for some more Koster knives :D
 
I think 3V might be more "rust" resistant, in terms of pitting and surface rust. Forming a quick patina should further help it resist that flaky ugly orange stuff that eats our blades. :D
 
Yes - that too. "Pitting" resistant is what I should have written. It will definitely patina and even get surface rust. But my experience (and my customer's experience echoes this) is that it really takes some abuse to get it to pit.

Whereas O1 and 1095 will pit quite easily.

I have had finished knives in O1 and 1095 rust and then pit here in my shop while waiting to be sent out! :mad: :grumpy:

Yes, they were sitting for months and were collecting metal dust....but still...they were even sprayed down with WD40!

So, I now keep all finished knives in a cabinet that remains closed and I "coat" them regularly - or I box them up for shipment and leave 'em.

Dan
 
Just drop your carbon steel knife in vinegard or Coke for 12 hours.
Then wash with water, dry it and spary WD40.
You will get an homogeneous patina quite rust resistant.
Easy task!
:D
 
Bluing is a passivation process that will impact only a thin, very thin surface layer.
The result is not so effective against rust and light scratches.
Dumping the knife for 12 hours in some light acid (like vinegar or coke for example) will create a more effective passivation. The result may be less attractive if compared with a very well done bluing (this proces is not easy as described if you want an homogeneous deep blue or black!) but a bottle of coke or low quality vinegar will costs less and is more effective.

After the treatment, to stop the passivation process, simply rinse the knife in warm water mixed with bicarbonate and mild soap.
Rinse again with water only and then spray with WD40.

I consider my knives as tools.
And normal maintenance is required by all the tools.
This "mindset" prevent rust on my carbon steel knives. :)

Here is a A8 mod. (very close to INFI) blade blued (but never used) using Birchwood Perma Blue

tito12840775.jpg

tito22836817.jpg
 
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FYI-I have a brother machinist that tested the various commercial oils over time and "4-WAY" beat WD-40 hands down for rust resistance.
 
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