My beloved Carny is back home!

Joined
Aug 25, 1999
Messages
1,317
Last week I posted a thread in the "good/bad/ugly" forum about the great customer service I experienced with REKAT. Long story short, I screwed up the blade on my Carny and sent it to REKAT to be repaired. About a week later I got a phone call at work telling me that it was on it's way back to me, repaired personally by Bob Brothers. Only charged me the cost of the new blade! Well, yesterday I recieved the package, and it's perfect (again). I'm very, very impressed with the quality of customer service they displayed. During my short phone conversation with the nice lady from REKAT, she even complimented the filework I'd done. It's nice to hear things like that from the folks who make the knives. It really puts a personal touch on the whole experience, especially since that was the first time I'd done filework, and I know she was being kind! It's exactly that kind of personal exchange which makes me gravitate toward custom fixed blade knives, and it's refreshing to find it with a production company as well. I missed having my Carnivore while it was gone; it's a great knife, and I'm proud of mine. Thanks very much, Bob and Co., for continuing to offer great products and excellent customer service.
Paul Petrick
 
I just bought a Carnivore and expect it in today. I received directions on disassembly, cleaning, reassembly and am planning to do that this weekend(esp to buff up the liners and smooth out the action).
I do have a few concerns and a question or two.
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First, I have the coated blade and am hesitant to sand any of the coating off even though it is around the pivot. Anyone done this and experienced any problems?
Second, I am concerned about losing the spring as I have read it tends to want to escape.
eek.gif
How is the best way to prepare for this?
Third, and this is directed to those who have done file work. What is it and can you give me some pointers.
biggrin.gif

As you can see I have NO experience here and very limited experience with folders.
I will say that I am looking forward to this particular knife though.
Please e-mail me with any info you may have.
Thank you one and all.

Roy
 
Roy,

As far as sanding off the coating on the conact surfaces of the pivot, I don't think there will be any problem...the blade is ATS-34, and will just be like an uncoated ATS-34 blade.
Also be careful, but don't worry too much aboout the spring. On my Carny the spring was glued on the G-10 scale so it could not fly off.
I don't know much about file work, because I've never attempted it.

Good Luck!

Mitch
 
Originally posted by Roy:

I do have a few concerns and a question or two.
confused.gif

First, I have the coated blade and am hesitant to sand any of the coating off even though it is around the pivot. Anyone done this and experienced any problems?

Well, obviously the coating will be worn off where you sand it, but since it is in the pivot area the only part you'll really seen worn off is on the tang of the blade (the round part that the lock contacts). Realistically this is eventually going to wear anyway because the Rolling Lock is always engaged against the tang of the blade, so you may as well go ahead and make the modification anyway.



Second, I am concerned about losing the spring as I have read it tends to want to escape.
eek.gif
How is the best way to prepare for this?

The spring on mine is well-attached to the scale, so the two times I've taken it apart I had no worries about it flying off. If you are really worried about it, here's what I would do: dismantle the knife down to the left scale (assuming you bought the normal right-handed model of the Carnivour). To do this, you just leave the left (lockside) allen bolts screwed in while removing the right ones. Now remove all the left bolts as well as the pivot bolt. Make sure you keep pressure pinching the scale and liner together because at this point the spring could jump on you. Have a towel handy, get well into the center of a table, and drape the towel over your hands and sort of make a seal around them. Now simply separate the scale and the liner. If the spring wants to jump it'll hit the towel and be right in the center of the table just like you wanted!


Third, and this is directed to those who have done file work. What is it and can you give me some pointers.
biggrin.gif




This is tougher. I would look up a website like Center Cross Metal Works and you will see a lot of fancy filework on the liners and the blade spine itself. It is really awesome, but it takes practice and a steady hand to do it well. I found that out with my own experimentation on the REKATs! For the round cuts a chainsaw sharpening file works excellent, and a variety of other files can be employed for a lot of different patterns. Check out that site and some other custom maker's stuff and you'll see plenty of fileworking. It's very popular. I would guess this is something you'll want to shy away from on an actual knife. If you want to practice buy some aluminum sheets at a hardware store and cut them to size and go at it. Eventually you'll get the hang of it and the confidence for doing it on your knife liners. Also, check out knifeart.com and hit the Articles section. There is a nice piece on filework patterns there. Hope this helps!

As you can see I have NO experience here and very limited experience with folders.
I will say that I am looking forward to this particular knife though.
Please e-mail me with any info you may have.
Thank you one and all.

Roy[/B][/QUOTE]



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Great advice on spring loss prevention, Chiro75!

I have to ask about the reasoning for sanding the Teflon off the pivot area.
I would think this to be counter-productive as the Teflon adds to the overall lubricity of the mechanism, being Teflon and all, doesn't it?
Polishing the steel liners is the way to go, but I wonder if anything can be gained by sanding the Teflon off.
confused.gif


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I found the finish to be a little on the rought side just under the Black-T coating. Now that I got down under it and "polished" that area I know it's smooth, and I just used a little Tri-Flo (has teflon in it) to lube the pivot.

~Mitch
 
Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't the coating on the REKAT blades "birdsong Blak-T"
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BTW, I don't have a real issue with the action on the Carny I recently got (Thanks Mitch), so I will be working mainly on the liners and the clip.
Thanks again for all of you who helped with tips and tricks on how to do this.

Roy
 
The blade coating is, I think, black titanium. And yes, it should be more lubricious than bare metal. But if there are grind lines on the metal, the bt will not necessarily cover them (it isn't a thick coating). This means that the blade will ride unevenly on the liner, so sanding it may help.
 
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