My Case Shield fell out

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Mar 6, 2012
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704
Heard a little rattle, then a quick flick, and out it fell.
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It really doesn't seem worth it to send it in, when all they'll do is glue it. So my question is, what's the best adhesive to set it back in with?

Thanks in advance!

~Jim
 
Haven't personaly delt with this problem ( knock on wood ) but something along the lines of krazy glue or gorilla glue seems apropriate. Goodluck!
 
A thin Superglue would probably be best. Not sure how rubbing alcohol will affect your handle material. But usually you can get any excess glue off with it. Sorry I couldn't give you more help. Good luck
 
Any of the cyanoacrylates would probably be fine.

If you do choose to use Gorilla Glue, go easy on it. That stuff expands as it dries.
 
Case went to far when they decided to stop pinning the shields on :/ they think there saving money and time, but before to long.. Boone's going to buy them. Case.. step up your game!
 
Gorilla glue would be the worst thing you could use outside of wheat paste. As woodworkers we all found out the hard way about its expansion trait, a quality that is so strong it will actually break wood joints apart.

Check it out here:

http://www.gorillatough.com/index.php?page=gorilla-glue

Go down the page and you can see the glue expands 3 to 4 times its original volume!! That would push the shield back out of the inlet. And take it from one that has had to clean that stuff up, it only seems to stick to things you didn't want it to.

Personally, I would get some gel thickness CA or since I have some, use a two part epoxy. Even a one part urethane glue would work great.

Robert
 
I would use two parts epoxy(Bison,Aradlite or similar),first you need to clean both contact parts from previous glue,and maybe even roughen it a bit.
 
It's happened on 2 CASE knives of mine and a Queen. Roughen the back of the shield a bit with emery, scratch around in the shield location with a knife tip and a drop of Superglue and it will be fixed.

Buying a GEC with pinned shield is of course another avenue.....:D
 
Had a shield fall out of a queen copperhead, I used a little superglue and it is still holding strong after several years.
 
Cleaning the old residue out will be the key to success. I recommend the gel type CA because it does not cure instantly and bond your fingers to your knife. The thin CA will get you, no matter how careful you think you've been. You can get loose, but it can be aggravating. Being a modeler, I have used both extensively and my favorite is what they call "thick". The gel type is called "slow".

That's a sweet little coke bottle you have there. And you are right, no sense sending it back to case to have them glue it back in for you when you can do it in 5 minutes yourself as good as they can.

Ed J
 
Re-glued a shield back onto a Queen congress with a bone handle with Gorilla glue. It does expand and like spray foam, a little goes a long ways. Use it a lot for repairing furniture and almost everything else. I've seen to many super glue fails to trust it anymore, besides super glue doesn't seem to like water.
 
Buy a GEC! They are pinned on.

Buying a GEC with pinned shield is of course another avenue.....:D

Now, now. Our Mr. Jim, he's well-versed in the wonders of GEC. Look around, you'll see. ;)

That's a beautiful little coke bottle, SonnyJim. I hope you get the shield glued back in to your satisfaction, and not to your fingers.

~ P.
 
I h ave found 2 part epoxy works best for applications like this and you'll probably never have to do it again if you do it right.
 
I got a yellow Case cv pen a couple of week ago and the shield fell out right when I took it out of the box. I glued it back in with some cyanoacrylate and noticed it was a little proud of the scale. There was enough edge riding high for me to pop it out (after just a minute), but it seemed to some out rather easily. It probably just hadn't fully cured, but I decided to use two-part epoxy after that. I deeped the hole (Delrin's easy to remove) and reglued the shield, and now it fits perfectly. It wasn't worth returning the thing, to me, since it was pretty easy to fix but I can see how Case gets some criticism from time to time on this shield matter.
 
2 Part Epoxies. JB WELD for me. Handy to have around as well. Been around a long time and works. There is one for metal to other material versus the one for metal to metal.
 
Thanks all, for the replies and ideas. As Ms. P said, I've got plenty of GEC's to know the quality of a pinned shield, so I think I'm covered there:) I'm leaning toward 2 part epoxy, as I've used it with great success on everything from furniture (wood to wood) and even fixing a broken (plastic) latch on our clothes dryer which is still holding strong. May try the JB weld, as I haven't tried it yet. I made the rookie mistake of using gorilla glue once to re-set a hand mirror that had fallen out of it's frame, and even following the directions (and using sparingly), it oozed out the edges, alot. Hadn't heard of CA being hydrophobic, but having used it quite a bit as well, I have seen that it can trap fingerprints pretty easily (never use it to set plastic windows or glass on models...) I think CSI uses it to smoke for fingerprints too. I'll post an update soon! Thanks again ladies and gents!

~Jim
 
Jim, I would also recommend, that you should remove the "rests" of the glue Case used with some sandpaper and roughing the hole in there for a little more surface where you put the glue in.

Just my thought.
 
Gel-type superglue works well. 2 drops into the recess, at most. Drop the shield back in; very quick repair. And the gel won't run into/onto areas where you don't want it. I repaired a 5344 SS 'Red Shield' stockman (seen below, alongside my 1970 stag Peanut) with exactly the same issue, and it's been fine since. The knife was new when it happened; shield literally dropped into my lap as I was inspecting it. Lucky I didn't lose the shield.
 
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