My etching worked!

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Feb 4, 1999
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Well, I checked out those two websites that people recommended, and I followed neither set of instructions, although I did get the basic ideas...
I etched two designs on my experimental blade. I wish I could remove one, but oh well...maybe I'll attack it with some sandpaper and hope it isn't a deep etch! Anyway, what I did was make a stylus from a small brass rod. The thinnner the point, the better, as it gives more control. I then heated the area of the blade that I wanted to etch with a candle. It is important to heat the metal or the wax won't stick. I used vanilla scented candlewax. Nothing special, and it worked.
The key is to get the wax layer as thin as possible while still getting complete coverage. I used a paint brush to paint the melted wax onto the surface of the knife. Paper thin is perfect. Too thick and you have to remove too much wax, which keeps gunking up the design and it also catches the styles and breaks the wax off where you want it to stay.
Use the stylus to remove the wax completely from the area you want to be dark. any wax will block the ecthing solution, and will stay bright metal colored. Work slowly, carefully, and in a well-lit area, preferably with magnfication. When you are done, check your work for complete removal of wax in your design, and for any cracks or areas where the wax has lifted off the surface. Either of these will ruin your work. Once the design is perfect, use your etching solution. I used PCB solution, which can be bought at Radio Shack. It is printed circuit board etchant, and is simply a solution of ferric chloride. The stuff will bead up, so you sort of have to "bead" it up on the work. Cover the entire area, and leave it for a few minutes. You'll see the design turn black quickly. The longer you leave it, the deeped the etch.
The design I am happy with is about 1/2 inch in length and is the Japanese character Yume, which means "dream". Turned out cool! It is really tough to get perfection this way, but it is definitely handmade, and requires a minimum of tools. I'll let you know how removal of the other design works out! Keep your fingers crossed!
PS- I will eventually have pictures up, someday!
 
Chiro,

Congrats! And thanks for the report. There is some good information about in there about etching.

Another method that I've read about from my circuitboard hobby days (which were few) uses a laser printer.

Supposedly (I've never tried this) you can print a reverse-image of your etch onto paper with the laser printer. This can be "ironed-on" to the metal by putting the paper on your blade and running an iron over it. The heat transfers the laser printed image from the paper to the metal. Then mask the other surrounding metal that you don't want etched and soak with your etchant.

Alternatively, you can print your positive (non-reversed)image onto sticky-backed paper then cut it out the positive image with a knife, leaving a positive image to be etched. I haven't tried this one either, I've only read about it.

Has anyone tried these?

Mike
 
I have used the "iron-on photocopy" method to make electronic circuit boards.

I found that the amount of toner that ends up sticking to your board (knife) can be inconsistent. That is, you may have pin holes that let the etchant through where it shouldn't. Cleaning the metal surface with acetone or alcohol beforehand helps a lot. Wrapping the paper/metal sandwich in aluminum foil keeps the iron from sticking to the paper original.

An alternative is to use permanent ink marker pens to draw a negative image on the metal. Use a really fresh one so that a lot of ink is deposited on the metal. These pens are available in many different widths from art supply stores and stationery supply stores. Again, the metal must be absolutely clean for the ink to stick properly. The pens can be used to patch the pin holes that I mention above.

The photocopy toner and marker pen ink may be removed by wiping with acetone or alcohol.

Hope this helps.

Phil
 
Chiro75-
I tried you idea and it works except I used my wifes fingernail polish instead of wax and it worked great. Thanks for the tip
Steve45
 
Good idea! You just waited for it to dry then scratched through it? Thgat sounds like a better method than the wax, which is somewhat messy to keep clean, and prone to chipping. Did you have ny trouble removing the nail polish after the etching was complete? I assume you used acetone...
 
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