My favorite axe, fun usage and its reprofiling journey

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May 19, 2009
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Well stated. To expand on your final point, the cheeks needs to thick enough to pop out the chip. If the chip doesn't pop out then the axe can't penetrate deeper. Thinness and thickness have to be balanced. Thinness and toughness need to be balanced. In getting this right there's no substitute for experience in your type of cutting in your type of wood. You will learn how thick your edge needs to be to remain durable. And you'll learn how efficiently it cuts at different thicknesses. Even the most experienced forester or competitive axe man will be constantly contemplating the different parameters.

This comment by SP was from a back-and-forth over in another thread about sharpening. The idea he presented got me browsing through some old photos. As to not derail that topic with a huge picture-filled post, I figured I'd start a different thread and do a bit of sharing with this quote in mind.

When I first got the axe head, I was pretty confident this 3 lb Keen Kutter Jersey was near-stock in terms of how much of the bit had been removed through the years. It had some wear and pitting, but otherwise seemed in really good condition. After some deliberation, I hung it on a 27" straight octagonal handle and since I considered the bit to be quite thin, I left the overall profile alone:
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I took out some small knicks, straightened out the edge a bit, and gave it a fairly thin a well honed convex. Didn't bother with the cheeks however because I figured the profile was thin enough:
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The setup worked out pretty well for the light chores I was doing. Shown here doing the basic shaping of a 21" handle for a Plumb boy's axe:
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The edge stayed that way until my camping trip late last August. Lots of standing dead pine where we went so I had a blast providing our decent sized group with firewood. We got there late the first day and brought a bit of our own wood, so I only took down a few small dead trees after setting up my tent just for fun. People can probably tell just by looking at the cuts and chips that my technique was lacking and my bit's edge not optimal for the wood:
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The second day, I actually reprofiled the cheeks as I had brought along a 12" Mill Bastard file, my set of DMT credit card sharpeners, and some clamps. You can probably sort of make out the change in the bit in this picture:
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Later in the trip, I decided to take this slightly larger guy down:
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The lean was pretty obvious and I gave it a few solid thumps with the poll to make sure none of the branches were prone to drop, then went to town:
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Checked that my front notch was good, shed a layer since the sun decided to come out then moved on to the back:
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And finally - Tiiiiiiimber! Walked off 45 degrees to where another tree would protect me from possible kickback. It hinged pretty well though. In the foreground you can see where some drunken teenagers had decided to have an impromptu, out-of-pit bonfire a couple weeks before our group arrived. Pretty stupid considering the dry spell and amount of dead pines, dried moss, and globs of dried sap that littered the ground. Lucky for them it was a park manager that kindly told them to leave rather than ol' Smokey..
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Of course I had a celebratory moment which just so happens to be one of the better shots of the new profile:
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Aaaaand then I got the bright idea of actually bucking the tree rather than just sawing it. I was hesitant to post these pictures as I figured my pale, sun-deprived, northwestern skin reflecting light might be offensive to some.
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Good lord is bucking ever hard work. Probably didn't help that I was doing it at 2PM with the sun beating down, but how on earth do you people manage this with 18"+ dia trees? I took a break 4 sections through and was either debating how to cut around the large knot or why the hell I wasn't just using my saw. How about that huge chunk of dried sap though? Tossed that log in whole and everyone schooched their chairs back a good foot that night.
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One of the hauls back to camp:
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Overall, it was an incredibly enjoyable camping trip and not just because I got to burn off some steam in a manner I don't get to do all too often. The people I went with were awesome, and I got some good bonding time in with my girlfriend (who took the huge amount of pictures) as well as my then 6-month old dog.

When I got back, I actually ended up filing down the cheeks even more, making it more flat than convex. I figured it would help give easier release and that only the very edge really needed the convex for durability.
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Also, while I was pretty attached to the 27" handle, I ended up deciding I needed something longer for real work. I also had some other ideas about the ergonomics and ended up incorporating it into the design. It's now on a 31" personalized handle:
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And there you have it: a little bit (a lot) of sharing on the topic of how some experience with your axe, working with local woods and your intended medium, can better help you assess what works best for an edge profile. In my case, what I thought to be an already thin bit actually ended up needing more cheek thinning to best be optimized for the soft woods that are prevalent in my area. It also let me realize that while a 27" handle is great in terms of packability, it wasn't quite long enough for my desired usage. YMMW but you won't know for sure just how much until you get out and drive
 
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Great thread, thanks for posting. Makes me excited about the axe head I picked up at a thrift store this week :thumbup:
 
Great work man. I was just about to suggest a 31-32" handle; gives you more power big time, fuller swing.

Question: you say you reprofiled on the trip. Was the axe noticeably under-performing in cutting, or did you just change your mind about the profile?

John
 
Thanks for sharing k_c; as always a super job on your grind, and it looks and sounds as though it was a fun trip.

You mention that it was a while ago, so your bucking technique may have changed making this a useless comment, but there was a short thread I started a couple of weeks back called "Chopping styles - how do you swing it?" http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...how-do-you-swing-it?highlight=chopping+styles

In it I received some advice on other people's chopping techniques and a video of some competitive choppers explaining how they do it. This completely changed my approach to bucking, as I, like you in these pictures, had been chopping from the top down and also bringing the axe up over my shoulder. Since then I've been chopping more like felling, first into one side and then into the other, moving the position of my feet to change the angle rather than doing the work with my arms. This has made a huge difference for me; it takes less energy and goes much quicker.

In any case, with all that work you did, I hope someone else at least did the cooking!
 
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I was hesitant to post these pictures as I figured my pale, sun-deprived, northwestern skin reflecting light might be offensive to some.

Not necessarily offensive but I did have to turn reduce the brightness on my monitor to cut down on the glare.
10avatar



Thanks for sharing this story from one pale Northwesterner to another.
 
Not necessarily offensive but I did have to turn reduce the brightness on my monitor to cut down on the glare.
10avatar



Thanks for sharing this story from one pale Northwesterner to another.

Haha yeah - figured someone would have to..


The angle makes the axe so much bigger![/QUOTE]

The short 27" handle and tiny 5'4 kid probably don't help either :p

[quote="wdmn, post: 13305989"]Thanks for sharing k_c; as always a super job on your grind, and it looks and sounds as though it was a fun trip.

You mention that it was a while ago, so your bucking technique may have changed making this a useless comment, but there was a short thread I started a couple of weeks back called "Chopping styles - how do you swing it?" [url]http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1155423-Chopping-styles-how-do-you-swing-it?highlight=chopping+styles[/url]

In it I received some advice on other people's chopping techniques and a video of some competitive choppers explaining how they do it. This completely changed my approach to bucking, as I, like you in these pictures, had been chopping from the top down and also bringing the axe up over my shoulder. Since then I've been chopping more like felling, first into one side and then into the other, moving the position of my feet to change the angle rather than doing the work with my arms. This has made a huge difference for me; it takes less energy and goes much quicker.

In any case, with all that work you did, I hope someone else at least did the cooking![/QUOTE]

Yeah I was using an over-shoulder swing which was probably more tiring than how those competitive woodcutters do it. I was however, cutting on one side then the other with the log between me and the swing. The pictures are of the third part of the process, finishing the cut by chopping downward. Lord knows I wasn't confident enough to try and straddle the log and chop towards my exposed toes, especially with the nearest hospital a considerable ride away.

And no, I really only helped with the food prep. Gotta love any excuse to use a sharp blade!

[quote="newsasquatch, post: 13305890"]awesome axe. I really like that type. That seemed like a fun trip. I like the celebratory pic lol.[/QUOTE]

Yeah jerseys are awesome. The lugs give greater wood to axe-eye contact while still letting you choke up right behind the bit. A pain to haft but that's a one time consideration. Huge cutting edges are a bonus as well.

[quote="jpeeler, post: 13305132"]Great work man. I was just about to suggest a 31-32" handle; gives you more power big time, fuller swing.

Question: you say you reprofiled on the trip. Was the axe noticeably under-performing in cutting, or did you just change your mind about the profile?

John[/QUOTE]

If I recall correctly, I think it was binding partially into the cut and not penetrating as deep into the wood as I would have liked. I think part of it was just that it wasn't getting to the thicker portion of the bit to help pop the cut and automatically release. Giving it that flattened banana grind let it get to the thicker portion of the bit with less effort and I noticed less sticking just from that. The other aspect was just the shorter handle - I was swinging naturally and not trying to add too much force into it, so that led to lack luster penetration.

[quote="halfaxe, post: 13304700"]Excellent axe trip there Killa.:thumbup: I thought all dudes your age have tats. ;)[/QUOTE]

Yep - certainly in the minority, especially here in the hipster center of the world. Hell, even my mother got a tattoo the other day..
 
Very cool and inspiring post. My almost 8 year old son is reading along with me and has now discovered that one can make their own axe handles.

Thanks
 
so what do you think about the keen kutter compared to the true temper kelly perfect. The prices for those are astonishingly high, but the keen cutter, while still high, is better priced, or less sought after.
 
so what do you think about the keen kutter compared to the true temper kelly perfect. The prices for those are astonishingly high, but the keen cutter, while still high, is better priced, or less sought after.

A bit hard to compare as the kelly perfect is a 3.5 lb head and I have it hung on a 35" straight handle.. the profile is also a wee bit thicker. The only thing I can really compare objectively is the heat treat which are fairly similar. Honestly most of the old stamped US-made vintage heads are good and not too appreciably different in quality and heat treat. Really I'd just find a pattern you're interested in and then look for something that has a good profile and isn't too worn down.

Its pretty widely agreed on here that True Tempers tend to be overpriced, especially the kelly perfect jerseys.
 
I'd emphasize what K_C said- look for the axe head shape you like, and try to find one that has as much of its bit(s) left as possible. Also look at the toe and heel (top and bottom corner of the bit)- you want those to be sharp, not rounded off. I don't like to sink a lot of money into a single head, but when I do, I go 'whole hog' and get one that will count. Any of the major brands- true temper (kelly), collins, sager, norlund, plumb, et al.

Sorry for the tangent, great thread Killa.
 
Honestly most of the old stamped US-made vintage heads are good and not too appreciably different in quality and heat treat. Really I'd just find a pattern you're interested in and then look for something that has a good profile and isn't too worn down.

Can't argue with that. I'll add that the older ones tended to have convex cheeks and the newer ones tend to have flatter cheeks. The newer ones often have softer steel.


......try to find one that has as much of its bit(s) left as possible. Also look at the toe and heel (top and bottom corner of the bit)- you want those to be sharp, not rounded off.


That's the key. And check the poll to see if it's highly mushroomed or shows evidence of having mushrooming ground off. Widened or mis-shapened eyes are a sign that somebody has used it as a wedge or sledge hammer.
 
A bit hard to compare as the kelly perfect is a 3.5 lb head and I have it hung on a 35" straight handle.. the profile is also a wee bit thicker. The only thing I can really compare objectively is the heat treat which are fairly similar. Honestly most of the old stamped US-made vintage heads are good and not too appreciably different in quality and heat treat. Really I'd just find a pattern you're interested in and then look for something that has a good profile and isn't too worn down.

Its pretty widely agreed on here that True Tempers tend to be overpriced, especially the kelly perfect jerseys.

After seeing this thread, I went on ebay, found this, and won it!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-SIN...NG-TOOL-/141216262924?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276
I hope I got a good deal. It looks like it is in salvagable condition from my novice-eyes. Thanks for the thread, it helped me find a badass axe!
 
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After seeing this thread, I went on ebay, found this, and won it!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-SIN...NG-TOOL-/141216262924?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276
I hope I got a good deal. It looks like it is in salvagable condition from my novice-eyes. Thanks for the thread, it helped me find a badass axe!

Looks like a good snag to me. Curious to find out if yours and mine are twins. The dimensions sound about right (7" long with a 5.5" cutting edge) but there wasn't a top-down profile provided so it could be a 3.5 lb version if it's stouter. Even so, I agree - looks to have a good profile without excessive rounding and seems hardly worn. Keep me updated on the restoration!
 
Question regarding your 31" personalized handle. In the picture where you drew the outline on the wood, where did you get your starting piece? Is that a store bought piece of wood? Or did you widdle/carve/plane your own piece from a log? And what type of wood did you use? Thanks.

P.S. It looks awesome!
 
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