My first attempt at venturi type forge burner, Thoughts / Opinions / Suggestions?

Doubledee

Doubledee

Joined
Oct 22, 2011
Messages
164
So after many hours of research and surfing around the forum this is what I've come up with for a burner to use in my forge that I haven't built yet. Instead of pictures I just went with a short video because I figured it would be easier to see and hear at the same time how its working. I just received my materials to build the actual forge today so ill probably start on that this weekend and build a Work in progress thread... I love to get any input on what I could do to improve on this burner before I finalize its assembly.
[video=youtube_share;nGAvn8H-ehM]http://youtu.be/nGAvn8H-ehM[/video]
[video=youtube_share;5L7WmvRNH4g]http://youtu.be/5L7WmvRNH4g[/video]
 
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Overall, I'd say it's overly complicated, but effective. It looks like it is a reducing, green flame. That could be just the camera. Your output should be around 120K BTU @ 20 PSI.

A burner doesn't need to be complicated. I don't understand the extra tubing or valve. Just a hole for the gas and a tube about 1/4" away to create the venturi effect. Getting the burner to work outside the forge is unnecessary. The forge chamber will act as the flare. After all, you're building a burner and not a blow torch.

Here's a video of lighting one of my simple venturi burners. It's much easier and less scary to light it this way.
[youtube]ALa4s9_9Ygk[/youtube]
 
The needle valve and tubing is a "LOW" by-pass. It allows the burner to run on low ( pilot) when not forging, and then open the main valve and increase the flanme to the pre-set level controlled by the pressure regulator.
 
Yea I was wondering if it might be running a bit lean, I think I might try to add a throttle plate to restrict the input air and make it more adjustable... The extra needle valve is an idle, so I can save some fuel cost while the steel is out of the forge, or for possible future addition of a temp controller and solenoid valve for heat treating...
 
Something else that I noticed, teflon and propane is not a good combination. Go back to the hardware store get some gas line thread compound or yellow gas-line PTFE rated tape. If you're using compression fittings they must be metal bushings, not plastic. I'd also be wary of the rubber/plastic portions inside the valves you are using. Propane can eat away at them and may cause problems.

Do you have a regulator installed, or are you using the ball valve as such?
 
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Yea I need to get some of that yellow gas rated tape. I was using the regulator from my cutting torch so I could see the pressure and the valves are all rated for natural gas / propane so they should be fine... I have a addition that will allow me to choke the air inlet and adjust how rich or lean its burning I just haven put it together yet so an up date is forthcoming in the next day or three...
 
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