My First Broad Axe, Collins, pic add

J

jmh76

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Mar 27, 2012
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I am stoked. I just got my first broad axe. Its a Collins & Co Hartford. I am gathering a few different axes for a log blacksmithing shack. Anyway the head is a Collins & CO, Hartford. Looking on yesteryeartools.com, it is very old. Her dimentions are 12.5" bit, 9" poll to bit and 6.8#. The bit apperars to have factory sharpening, no BS. And it rings like a bell when you thump it. Any idea what numbers on back mean?

It needs a handle now. What kind of dimentions should I shoot for? I need to know length, and how much off-set. What do you experts think? Thanks for your time.



 
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Just please don't copy this broad axe handle I spotted at a museum recently.

Worst%20axe%20handle%20ever.jpg


I do believe this is the worst axe handle ever. Well, except for that Barco handle that Sparrow posted. :p
 
Maybe you would like to track down the expert advise of Richard Casselman, known to many as the Northern Hewer. It is my understanding that he even has produced and has on offer his instructional video of how to handle a variety of boradaxe patterns.

E.DB.
 
Thanks guys. I think I will shoot for 3-4" of off-set. But I'm thinking around 25-28" long. I think I might try something a little unconventional on this one;) Stay tuned.
 
Broad axe handles that you can buy are way too long imo. You can cut them down of course but maybe you might try making your own. I never made one myself but I have a couple with old handles less than 20 inches that are more comfortable to use than the one I hafted with a factory made 36 inch handle.
 
I am definatly making my own. What are your thoughts on making the handle curve upward as well as out? Also I've never used a broad axe so this may be dumb question, but should your dominate side be next to log? That would seem natural for me.
 
There is no straight out answer to the first part of your question about a compound curve to the handle because there are many variables involved. In one set-up it would be an advantage, in another just the opposite.
And on the second part I have only something similarly vague to contribute. The advantage you have at this point is a lack of bias. Epistemologically speaking you can approach the work unhindered by opinions which may or may not have anything to do with the actual way, which is not to discount the value of experience by any means, but you can begin by doing what feels right.
To be honest, and I've done maybe what you could say is a relatively moderate amount of this work over a long period of time, but every time I approach a beam to begin or resume hewing it is not at all clear in my mind which side I'll be starting with, If I begin and it doesn't feel right, then I know I have started wrong, at the same time I may start with the wrong side to the work and it might feel good so I'll just keep going that way. What I am saying is there are many proven ways of doing this work but a good place to begin is the way that feels right and then refine your technique by looking at what others do and have done in similar situations to yours.

E.DB.
 
I think that a little bit of upward curve would be nice. You see that on many of the historic handles. Essentially it's just opening the hang a little bit.

Considering left or right side of the axe towards the work it's really a matter of personal preference. And without a prior prejudice you'll likely adapt to either configuration just fine.

I like to work with the log on my left side. I'm right handed. But I think many right handers work opposite of how I do. As a 30-year carpenter I'm just used to having my right hand on the swell of the hammer. If the left hand is assisting then it goes forward of the right. Some right handed hewers prefer to have the right hand forward for control. And I work backwards down the log so there is nothing ahead of my axe impeding a clear swing. Some prefer to work forward.
 
Well, I said this would be a little unconventional. Here it goes. I am going to try a glued up handle, a curved glued up handle. I know, I know "WTH are you thinking, grain run-out and glued up handle, this should be good..." I just have to try, the only thing I'm out is a little time if the handle fails. I glue up trim this way all the time and it turns out great. I will let you know if/when it fails. First, re-sawed ash and walnut. Second, set glue-up clamps in a curve, 4.25" s curve. Got some help the whole time from first son, which is best part. Finally glued (Titebond III, great elastic properties) and will pull clamps in AM. To be continued...




 
Practically you will have almost unlimited options with the lamination in terms of angles and sufficient strength though it will have added unnecessary weight due to the glue.

The big disadvantage, rooted in your conceptual deviation, is an almost complete loss of tactile feedback. It will only effect the subtleties of the results and make the effort seem more mechanical.

E.DB.
 
As far as the curve goes, there is always "springback" when doing laminations. However it is almost impossible to calculate it unless you do multiples. I'll let you know in a few hrs.
 
You will have no problems. It will make a good durable handle. It will be much stronger than a conventional handle I would think. Just keep the handle from getting to wet because that glue is not water proof.
Urac-185 is what I would use. Made by Nelson paint company I believe.
Really nice clamping system you have. Hope you post the progress as you build this handle.
 
Took it out of form and it looks good. Got it roughed out and thats about it for this weekend. It looks like there will be about 3" of off-set, is that too much? Pegs, you might be right. I will go on with it and see.

 
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