My first collection photo - Need advice about felling axe.

C

craft

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Feb 24, 2013
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For the first time I've had all my timber working tools in one location, which was perfect time for a group photo. My collection is a few years old, but the growth-rate has dropped significantly, as I've reached a point where I have an axe for all my purposes. The only axe missing is a good felling axe, which I have been holding off on purchasing, as I don't have a lot of access to trees to-be-felled, or friends with axes to try.

I do have a question. I'm 6' tall, about 175lbs, reasonable build. The trees I would be taking down range from 8-16" in diameter, hickory, maple, birch, oak, not many softwood trees. Any recommendations on bit size and handle length for a felling axe?

From Left-to-Right. Small Swedish Adze, Large Swedish Adze, Swedish Timber Axe, Wetterlings Bushman, GB Small Carpenter, Small Swedish Caring Axe, Wetterlings Wildlife Hatchet, Wetterlings Broad Axe, GB Single Bevel Carving Axe, Swedish Large Carving Axe, GB Small Forest Axe, GB Drawknife.

axe_collection.jpg
 
Nice collection. Looks like you are geared to wood working tools and carving.
In a felling axe for the hard woods I really don't think that the real thin bits are the way to go(GB, Wetterlings ect). I would get a good vintage head around three pounds for what you would be chopping on a 28" to 32" handle. It's really what ever you like. You will get all kinds of opinions on head weight and handle length. There is not a right or wrong answer. Maybe you should just pick up a couple heads from 3 to 3 1/2 pounds and order you a few handles in various lengths. It can be done pretty affordable.
 
I like a large axe for felling. 3-1/2 to 4 pounds with a 36" handle. Don't get a real wide bit for hardwoods. Stick with 4" to 4-1/2". I agree with Garry about staying away from thin cheeks. The only one I know of that is in production now is the Council Velvi-cut felling axe. That's why most of us look to vintage stuff for a felling axe.
 
That's a nice looking collection, and left-hand set-up to boot. Maybe that explains the absence of any older axes, very difficult to find second hand left hand axes. The one you call Swedish large carving ax is particularly nice to me and I wonder how you find it in use, even which of all you find that you make the most use of?
I guess you are doing mostly log construction with these tools so not necessarily much hewing involved which could explain the absence of a felling style ax. But still one such ax would definitely round out your collection and sticking with the Scandinavian makers would do it in a good way since you have gone this far.

E.DB.
 
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Craft: How do you like that Wetterlings Broad Axe? I've been asking around for opinions, but you're the first person i've seen that has one. Do you use it for hewing? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Nice collection, and yes, if you're looking for a big falling axe, I would go with a double bit with good weight, high cheek centerlines and a 35-36 inch handle. American patterns are the best for this, but the older Gransfors logging axe heads floating around are good too. In fact, something like this recent post might be a good choice for you.

That being said, I would also advise keeping a shorter, lighter axe around, something with a 31" handle to do smaller jobs. Swinging a full size falling axe to take down a 5" tree is exhausting and unnecessary.


John
 
Just to mix things up-- I prefer something about a half pound lighter (3 pounds) with maybe a 31 inch handle for felling. It's hard work to keep accurate strokes because you are fighting gravity.
 
I find that my swing is different between my longer/larger axes and a shorter, 30-31" axe. For example, if I attack a tree with a 36" like I would use my smaller cruisers, I'll give out very quickly. My swings are less frequent and done with a more open body posture with a bigger axe.
 
Nice looking collection. It looks like they are all well cared for and sharp.

The best and safest way to fell 8"-16" trees is to use a 3.5-4 lb double bit on a 36" handle for the undercut then use a saw for the back cut. You get much better control of your holding wood with the saw and should be able to fall the tree exactly where you want it. Those are pretty big trees you're talking about. You don't want to lose control of them. There's too much chance of hang-ups, property damage or injury. There are a lot of things that can go wrong when felling larger trees with only an axe.

Good luck. Post pictures when you get something.
 
G-pig do you mean something like this? My go to everytime a s&n 3lber on a handcarved 29" handle
Def recommend
fb4a.jpg
 
craft said:
. The trees I would be taking down range from 8-16" in diameter, hickory, maple, birch, oak, not many softwood trees. Any recommendations on bit size and handle length for a felling axe?

axe_collection.jpg
Click to expand...
I cut many of the same types of wood and of all the axes I own the four you will most likely find with me in the woods are, either a 3.5lb daton pattern,a 3.5lbRockaway pattern both plumbs, a 1933 vintage sager double bit, or my gransfors felling axe.
 
electricfax said:
G-pig do you mean something like this? My go to everytime a s&n 3lber on a handcarved 29" handle
Def recommend
fb4a.jpg
Click to expand...

What a coincidence! I've got a 3 pound S&N on a 29" handle I made myself. What wood is the handle? Mine is Ash, the one on the right



for *felling* though, I'd probably go for something like one of my worn down 3 1/4 pounders on something a little longer, like a 31" handle.
 
+1 for using a saw on the back cut, especially if it's a sizable tree, or you need to drop it just right. If I do back cut with an axe, I take my time and make precise swings that don't take out much.
 
G-pig im not sure the handle wood unforunatly. Its very flexible. I found 3 carved out like this at a shop on oakland. I had a 3 1/4 on the original handle! But its been sent down the road :/the i couldnt see using it in the condition it w
wf6z.jpg
as in. Its what made e hunt diwn this 3#er. Still looking for a 3 1/4 what a perfect weight! I thin.k the original 31/4 i had was a 30'" handle
 
electricfax said:
G-pig im not sure the handle wood unforunatly. Its very flexible. I found 3 carved out like this at a shop on oakland. I had a 3 1/4 on the original handle! But its been sent down the road :/the i couldnt see using it in the condition it was in. Its what made e hunt diwn this 3#er. Still looking for a 3 1/4 what a perfect weight! I thin.k the original 31/4 i had was a 30'" handle
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I've got a few 3 1/4 pounders. A TBA triple diamond, on a 29" handle, an Emerson Stevens conneticut on a 28 1/2 I think, a slightly worn Plumb cedar on a 32", and and a nice KATCO on a 31", which has been worn down and filed, so probably closer to 3 pounds. I like them =)
 
Axe nut said:
I cut many of the same types of wood and of all the axes I own the four you will most likely find with me in the woods are, either a 3.5lb daton pattern,a 3.5lbRockaway pattern both plumbs, a 1933 vintage sager double bit, or my gransfors felling axe.
Click to expand...

Have you had any problems with that GB? There factory bits are very thin. Be care full in cool weather with the hard woods. I have not had any problems with the hatchets but there is a big difference when you step up to longer handles and heavier heads. Been there and done that. Might consider a less aggressive angle.
 
garry3 said:
Have you had any problems with that GB? There factory bits are very thin. Be care full in cool weather with the hard woods. I have not had any problems with the hatchets but there is a big difference when you step up to longer handles and heavier heads. Been there and done that. Might consider a less aggressive angle.
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No I haven't hade any problems with it but that's mainly because the bit on the felling axe is anything but thin, now on their smaller axes and hatchets its a whole other matter, but I would guesstimate the bit thickness on the felling axe to be similar to a small thin splitting wedge, at roughly 1/4 in back from the bit it is already an eighth inch across and gets steadily thicker from there. I would post pics but i don't know how( yet ). :D
 
Axe nut said:
No I haven't hade any problems with it but that's mainly because the bit on the felling axe is anything but thin, now on their smaller axes and hatchets its a whole other matter, but I would guesstimate the bit thickness on the felling axe to be similar to a small thin splitting wedge, at roughly 1/4 in back from the bit it is already an eighth inch across and gets steadily thicker from there. I would post pics but i don't know how( yet ). :D
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I broke there DBL bit on a 36" handle. Both bits. You can say it was designed for throwing but it did cut deep into hard wood, while it lasted.
 
Axe nut said:
Gary3 I hate to derail this thread but how did you manage to do that.?
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Frosty morning and a Black locust that was 2 1/2'or so in diameter. It killed that axe. I knew fare less than I do now about axes. It was a recipe for disaster. Wrong grind. And a tuff wood. It took bites out of the bit.
 
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