My first Collins Legitimus single bit.....

D

Drum4fun

Joined
Mar 21, 2018
Messages
371
A recent arrival... Collins Legitimus (circa 1940's - mid 1960's (by logo)), single bit,
3.5 lb.. Overall, in pretty good shape. One good sized divot on the bit. A quick
vinegar bath and the rust wiped off...revealing nice deep temper lines (I'm guessing
the bit was not subject to much grinding over the years). Next step Mill Bastard file
the bit (good quality steel ...the divot required numerous passes). ... saved the
stone sharpening for later. Pre-visualized placement of the head on the handle. I had
pre-prepped the haft with sanding, BLOx4, Tung oilx4, 0000 steel wool (lightly with each coat).
Then cut off the excess haft (leaving a margin of error). The head placement proceeded slowly....
learned early on that wood was very dry and had to modify wood chisel bites as I carved
some pretty significant chunks during initial sizing. (sanded relatively smooth).
Wedge placement went uneventful...cut off flush with eye minimal excess. Last steps...
stones to bit, stropped, and, head soak in BLO. As I don't shave with my ax I only took
the edge to "sharp".

I learned a few things.... doing the head/bit prep separately from the haft prep worked
out nicely. The intermittent passes with 0000 steel wool left a smoother (not tacky) finish
when oil passes were complete. I started with a 36" haft... finished with a 35" haft. Less
is more...I thought I'd leave what little bit of "mushrooming on the poll edges" there is alone
as, to me, it adds to the visual appeal. When I place the ax with bit edge in contact with a
flat surface the contact point is right at the half-way point leading edge. (saw that was
"desireable" in a vintage ax diagram).

I have wanted a Collins Legitimus single bit for some time... seems they are highly regarded
on the forum. Even with the pock marks (left alone) I am glad to own this tool. Based on my
file work I'd say this is really good quality steel. Overall, pleased with the hang (tight) , may
not be cosmetically perfect but each attempt is getting a little better... so , perfect may be out
there.

Charles
https://imgur.com/a/07Ufbuq
 
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Thanks HnS ! ... Both of my parents (dec.) grew up in Norwich, Conn. (pre-WWII) ,
a mere 60 miles from Collinsville, Conn. . And, my Mom's name was "Connie". :cool: Every
time I pick this ax up I will make the connection.

I recall reading here that the "Legitimus" line was the flagship line of the Collins ax
offerings...(along with their famous machetes)... I can now see why. Also, I have learned
that 3.5 lb. ax is heavy enough for me. A few hours of swinging a 5 lb.'er
and I would be totally gassed ! :cool:

Charles
 
z94NeVz.jpg
cNXCZKf.jpg

here's a before and after of my little 3 pounder,i feel the steel's a tad soft compared to my knockoff legitimus. hope yours serves you well
 
PK... looks good to me.... what are the "tells" on the knock-off "Legitimus" ? I've heard there
were fakes but probably wouldn't recognize one unless it was a mis-spelled. :cool:

Here's a general question.... how do you guys choose
where in relation to the shoulder hump
you place the heel edge ??? I've seen some 2"s above
the shoulder and some riding down on the shoulder ?
What is the rationale , or, is it just personal preference ?

Thanks
Charles
 
Personally, I more or less prefer to set the head right down to the shoulder with little to no tongue showing.
u0cnXeU.jpg

GRunUoJ.jpg

I don't think the "hump" is really necessary for any major function. Some guys will make them very pronounced and stylized (sometimes even sharp to a point) but I am not sure why - shouldn't your hand more or less be able to slide up to the head on a swing?

Solid wedging and appropriate grind/edge are probably more important.
FY7kU3B.jpg

Yours looks pretty good to me Drum4fun.

Phantomknives' pic is a good example as well - the shoulders sort of disappear under the edge into the eye with little to no "hump" on the sides and poll end:
cNXCZKf.jpg
 
Drum4fun said:
A recent arrival... Collins Legitimus (circa 1940's - mid 1960's (by logo)), single bit,
3.5 lb.. Overall, in pretty good shape. One good sized divot on the bit. A quick
vinegar bath and the rust wiped off...revealing nice deep temper lines (I'm guessing
the bit was not subject to much grinding over the years). Next step Mill Bastard file
the bit (good quality steel ...the divot required numerous passes). ... saved the
stone sharpening for later. Pre-visualized placement of the head on the handle. I had
pre-prepped the haft with sanding, BLOx4, Tung oilx4, 0000 steel wool (lightly with each coat).
Then cut off the excess haft (leaving a margin of error). The head placement proceeded slowly....
learned early on that wood was very dry and had to modify wood chisel bites as I carved
some pretty significant chunks during initial sizing. (sanded relatively smooth).
Wedge placement went uneventful...cut off flush with eye minimal excess. Last steps...
stones to bit, stropped, and, head soak in BLO. As I don't shave with my ax I only took
the edge to "sharp".

I learned a few things.... doing the head/bit prep separately from the haft prep worked
out nicely. The intermittent passes with 0000 steel wool left a smoother (not tacky) finish
when oil passes were complete. I started with a 36" haft... finished with a 35" haft. Less
is more...I thought I'd leave what little bit of "mushrooming on the poll edges" there is alone
as, to me, it adds to the visual appeal. When I place the ax with bit edge in contact with a
flat surface the contact point is right at the half-way point leading edge. (saw that was
"desireable" in a vintage ax diagram).

I have wanted a Collins Legitimus single bit for some time... seems they are highly regarded
on the forum. Even with the pock marks (left alone) I am glad to own this tool. Based on my
file work I'd say this is really good quality steel. Overall, pleased with the hang (tight) , may
not be cosmetically perfect but each attempt is getting a little better... so , perfect may be out
there.

Charles
https://imgur.com/a/07Ufbuq
Click to expand...
Nicely done man good choice. And a good hang too!
 
Drum4fun said:
PK... looks good to me.... what are the "tells" on the knock-off "Legitimus" ? I've heard there
were fakes but probably wouldn't recognize one unless it was a mis-spelled. :cool:

Here's a general question.... how do you guys choose
where in relation to the shoulder hump
you place the heel edge ??? I've seen some 2"s above
the shoulder and some riding down on the shoulder ?
What is the rationale , or, is it just personal preference ?

Thanks
Charles
Click to expand...
One thing I consider when hanging, is how much shoulder will I have next time I rehang this head. If the head works loose for what ever reason you still have a bit of shoulder left to fix it.

If you're confident in your hang you can do what ever to your shoulder.
LxlKkcx.jpg

Here's the knockoff, the spacing is way off from other legitimuses... Legitimi? Anyway, this is a cruiser swamper I use for splitting (very good in that department) and I was cutting wood with it, unbeknownst to me there was fence wire in one of the logs, by the time I noticed I had taken 2-3 swings into it and when I looked at the edge there was nothing wrong.

It also appears to be slightly rust proof, I left it out accidentally through 2 thunder storms and when I found it there was only 2 little drops of rust
 
Regarding the shoulder, I like to set down close to it. Definitely might be some personal preference there in just how much.

I've seen a lot of double bits and pulaskis break that were out on the tongue though, right below the head. Less so broken in that way if they're well seated on the shoulder. These are fire and trail tools so misuse is certainly a factor. But it makes me wonder.

I like handles a bit shorter than 36", but thats all that's at the local places usually. So if I seat it well down I can end up 33 1/2 or 34. That is a plus to me.

I think it just looks a lot better as well.
 
Well done! Full marks.

Drum4fun said:
Here's a general question.... how do you guys choose
where in relation to the shoulder hump
you place the heel edge ??? I've seen some 2"s above
the shoulder and some riding down on the shoulder ?
What is the rationale , or, is it just personal preference ?
Click to expand...

I like to be right down on the shoulder so my hand can easily slide right under the head. I think it also improves flex to get thin quickly.
One trick I use is that after I have the haft protruding at least 1/4" thru the eye I will often raise the shoulder to meet the axe rather than attempt to drop the axe all the way to the shoulder. I think it's faster and easier.

Agent_H said:
I don't think the "hump" is really necessary for any major function. Some guys will make them very pronounced and stylized (sometimes even sharp to a point) but I am not sure why - shouldn't your hand more or less be able to slide up to the head on a swing?
Click to expand...

The stylized point is to make it look 'Klingon' so your teenaged friends will know what a badass you are. ;)
 
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Wow ... really good thoughts in this post . Thanks for idea PK about the "next time"...and the
view of the "Legitimii". :( Agent H.... I am a card carrying member in the "hard to get it right"
club ! o_O Btw... that post you referred me to started out great...then disintegrated into recriminations !
Muleman.... I like it seated down on the shoulder also...seems "beefier", but, a lot more
work involved in getting it down there and still looking symmetrical. Square Peg... I need to find
the "faster and easier" approach .... my hangs are taking too long... too many on and off, check ,
and re-check.

Thanks for all the good insights. I am still in my first 20-30 re-hangs so hope I get better with the
next 20-30.

Charles
 
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