My first convertible

J

Johndies

Joined
Mar 13, 2013
Messages
38



I started this a month back. I was experimenting with a sheath that would be a standard hip placement, but could either be edge forward or edge back without going with a sloppy symmetrical sheath. So I made a slit in the belt strap and the blade can enter the sheath from front or back. I went with a lace treatment even if presents some wear, I'll just relace it, and for security I'm trying a monkey fist with loop that works for both sides. I like the leather monkey fist, first time I tried that.
I tried it for a day and switched it around, seems to work. The leg ties look nice but were mostly useless.
 
I'm pretty new at this, and don't pretend to know much. Just wondering if anyone has ever seen this type of sheath, I mean entering from either side.
 
The major flaw in design that I see is that the integrity of the sheath depends on about 1/2 inch or less connection on each side right at the mouth of the sheath. This is further reduced by the closeness of the punched holes in that area. one for the back mouth slot and one for the edge lace. Looks like 1/4 to 3/8 inch.

The idea is novel, but I question the real need for it when compared to the degradation of the strength of the sheath.

Paul
 
Yep, you are right, I thought about that, and some future design should beef the with at least 3/4 inch and maybe double layer. Although another weakness is the actual belt slits. This time I'm thinking the edge wrap lace will maybe also provide extra strength.
The convertable issue came up for me when I started carrying a left shoulder sling bag that covered my right hip. No problem, I just through my sheath over to left hip, only now it was edge back and seemed awkward, so my solution was to make a new sheath edge forward. Seemed crazy to make two sheaths for every fixed blade I had. Thats where 20 lbs of scrap leather leads to ideas. Maybe the solution is to carry double edged daggers.
 
I hope I can explain this clearly with just words and no illustrations.

1. make a central core for either right or left hand carry configuration. The belt loop (Not slits)extends above the mouth and will be integral with the center core and will roll over the top and into the interior of the sheath about 2 inches. Cement in place.

2. Attach a single welt to both the front and back of this piece from mouth to tip. Overlay the rolled loop piece about 2 inches. Your cement and side lacing will lock the loop in place.

3. Lay a matching shaped "front piece" on both sides glued down on the welt and then lace.

4. The end result is a sheath with full strength loop coming out of the center of the sheath with access from both sides for the knife for either left or right hand carry.

Incidentally, Edge Back IS the correct carry for either side, unless you are planning on a reverse grip extraction.
Paul
 
Thanks Paul,
Your instructions are quite clear. My first thought was similar to the first time I saw Velcro, "I could have thought that". But I didn't!
So I went back to my 19 lbs of scrap leather, and pondered a bit. I love the full belt loop idea, carrying the loop down into the sheath welt two inches would give that area double strength, I'm thinking of inserting a couple of inches of nylon web for insurance. I think I'll set the standard sheath for edge back, left side and see how it goes. Got a magnesium block somewhere that needs a home. My current work is a horizontal sheath for an Old Timer Golden Bear, instead of a full cover I'm trying a half cover so that it has a better chance of staying put if the cover pops. The only problem is that it looks a little bit like a belt coffin.
Thank you for your considered reply, your work is masterful
 



Well this is my second attempt, field testing around the homestead, seems okay. Fire brick at little tight but probably better than loose. Primary left hip works out best.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top