- Joined
- Dec 5, 2005
- Messages
- 1,449
Bare with me. I took the pics with the only didgital camera I have access to: my didgital camera. 
Ok. I finaly got off my duff an finished a years-old project; A fixed blade skinner.
The steel is anonymous mild carbon steel recovered from a galvanized steel strut. Its edge was re-heat treated in case the heat from the grinding had anealed the steel any.
The design started out as a generic tanto, but i got bored of that mid-grind, and decided to give the blade a con-cave edge. The tip was modified a little; i dont exactly know how to explain it. hope its visible in the pictures. The right side also has a shallow fuller, just because i wanted the knife as light as possible. It has anit-slip serations running about 60% of the spine.
The grip scales are carved out of Pine. I know, I know, i can hear the moans already. I chose pine for a specific reason. Its light. durrability isnt an issue, because the handle will eventualy be wraped with shrunken fabric, so that will abzorb most of the dings, and general whare.
The process I use to attatch the scales is as follows. I glue the carved scales to the steel before I drill the peg holes. Once the glue has cured, I drill the peg holes. Then, I friction-fit the glue coated pegs into the holes, and peen them over on each side, as per standard. I have used this method on beater-swords before, and it has stood up to numerous beatings; even when using wooden pegs. I used 3/16" brass pegs for this knife. Like I said earlyer, I will be wrapping the handle in fabric, then shrinking it into place.
Close-up of the handle:
Close-up of the blade:
Profile shot:
In the hand:
Ok. I finaly got off my duff an finished a years-old project; A fixed blade skinner.
The steel is anonymous mild carbon steel recovered from a galvanized steel strut. Its edge was re-heat treated in case the heat from the grinding had anealed the steel any.
The design started out as a generic tanto, but i got bored of that mid-grind, and decided to give the blade a con-cave edge. The tip was modified a little; i dont exactly know how to explain it. hope its visible in the pictures. The right side also has a shallow fuller, just because i wanted the knife as light as possible. It has anit-slip serations running about 60% of the spine.
The grip scales are carved out of Pine. I know, I know, i can hear the moans already. I chose pine for a specific reason. Its light. durrability isnt an issue, because the handle will eventualy be wraped with shrunken fabric, so that will abzorb most of the dings, and general whare.
The process I use to attatch the scales is as follows. I glue the carved scales to the steel before I drill the peg holes. Once the glue has cured, I drill the peg holes. Then, I friction-fit the glue coated pegs into the holes, and peen them over on each side, as per standard. I have used this method on beater-swords before, and it has stood up to numerous beatings; even when using wooden pegs. I used 3/16" brass pegs for this knife. Like I said earlyer, I will be wrapping the handle in fabric, then shrinking it into place.
Close-up of the handle:
Close-up of the blade:
Profile shot:
In the hand:
