My First Custom Knife Build

Joined
Oct 15, 2014
Messages
67
Hello folks, I'm Marc from Texas.

So I embark on yet another hobby....I have many already.

I’ve had a love for knives and tools from a very early age. I remember finding and playing with my dad’s khukuri knife he kept in our shed. My step dad taught me to sharpen knives when I was fairly young as well, so I was able to make blades shave early on. I also love to tinker, learn, build or customize things so it was inevitable for me to eventually start tinkering with knife making as yet another hobby.

After reading and watching some videos on the topic I came across a video that shared a logical suggestion which was to start with inexpensive steel or blade blanks so I found a cheap knife on Amazon for $8.20 shipped. It wasn’t obvious from the photo on the product page, but the long distance between the handle and edge really make it an awkward knife. In the end, I just decided it didn’t matter since I was starting my learning curve.

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First I ground off the sharp funky tabs that acted as the hand guard. Also, I found some inexpensive mesquite scales at my local wood working specialty store here in Houston. A little later I ordered some nice high carbon steel Russell Green River Hunter blanks, & corby pins, from Midwest (USAKnifemaker.us I think was the url). I plan on making my 2 best friends a couple of hunter/bushcraft style knives for Christmas gifts since they are both wanting to start hunting with me and really don’t have any gear yet.

So, back to the knife I’m learning on.

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I reprofiled the tip to a spear shaped tip over the funky tonto.

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I used my marble floor tile to make the tang nice and square so the scales will fit nicely with no gaps.

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Here’s a photo of my work area. For now, I can't justify an expensive 2x72 sander so the Harbor Freight 1x30 will have to suffice. It's definitely lacking, but I was surprised at how fast this thing can remove stock. The most annoying thing about it is the bump where the belt is seamed together when it constantly thumps my work away from the platen. It would be nice to be able to tighten up the belt more also, but the adjustment range on this unit is not so robust. For hobby use though, it was a great addition to my little home garage shop for $36 after a 20% off coupon.

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I've profiled my scales some, added a finger groove, and cut some brass pins to affix the scales.

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Above, I mocked up the scales on the handle to get a feel for how much stock I would want to remove to make a comfortable grip.

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Here, I had profiled the scales more, beveled/rounded off both ends of the scales since those areas would be much harder to shape once mounted. I then mixed up some PC7 epoxy and attached the scales after cleaning all mating surfaces and roughing them up some.

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The several photos above show me getting my final handle profile finished to my liking.

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I then began applying multiple coats of boiled linseed oil after cleaning the handle of sanding debris.

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I think it's looking quite nice, although the shine goes away...

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I started mocking up a pattern to make a sheath for it. I wanted to go with a horizontal small of the back type rig, but honestly don't think it will work well with a serrated spine. This will likely never see much carry by me, so I'm just going to make a belt sheath for it and call it a day. My next creation from one of the Green River hunter blanks I have will likely have a horizontal rig with the ability to strap on a belt harness as well. I’ve seen some really nice examples done by some very skilled knife makers/leather workers, so there is plenty of inspiration.

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Here was my first maker's mark I came up with. It's not my typical mark I use on my artwork, but was much easier to create in the nail polish. It's an "M" with a "Y" turned 90 degrees...yes, my initials are MY.

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I'm a Mechanical Designer by trade and have the website DesignbyMarc.com because at some point I'm going to make a site and get a DBA going for some tax relief since I do contract work and could also possibly start selling some random things I create there as well. So, I toyed around with a DBM maker's mark.

It has been fun so far, but as for making symmetric grinds on blades with my HF sander, it's not easy and I have some learning to go. I think it may get easier once I switch to some regular carbon flat bar that has yet to be heat treated. I'll likely start that up after I finish crafting the 3 Green River hunters I have in the queue for my two friends and myself.

Feel free to share your thoughts, suggestions, etc. Thanks for looking!
 
Welcome to Shot Talk.

Glad the bug has bit you. Starting with a kit knife is a good wat to get your feet wet. The stickies has a ton of info on making knives. there is a good tutorial tat cover making a knife from start to finish. The Count will likely chime in soon with his post to new makers. have fun, be safe, and enjoy.
 
Welcome to Shot Talk.

Starting with a kit knife is a good wat to get your feet wet.

Thank you. So what exactly qualifies this as a "kit" knife? I didn't purchase a kit, I just bought a knife, took the fake paracord off, reprofiled and added scales I crafted myself from a plank of mesquite I sourced at my local Woodcraft store and affixed them with some brass rod stock I cut to size. Does "kit" refer to a knife that already has the blade heat treated & tempered? Just trying to educate myself on the lingo :thumbup:

I'll try to peruse the stickies when I get some time.
 
H

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Here’s a photo of my work area. For now, I can't justify an expensive 2x72 sander so the Harbor Freight 1x30 will have to suffice. It's definitely lacking, but I was surprised at how fast this thing can remove stock. The most annoying thing about it is the bump where the belt is seamed together when it constantly thumps my work away from the platen. It would be nice to be able to tighten up the belt more also, but the adjustment range on this unit is not so robust. For hobby use though, it was a great addition to my little home garage shop for $36 after a 20% off coupon.

You might have figured this out already but there's a tension adjustment on the 1x30 that's separate from the track knob. The tracking assembly is spring loaded to pivot around a large bolt at the back of the machine. Seems like this bolt always comes torqued way down so nothing moves. Also the spring is pretty wimpy. I've started physically tensioning the belt (roaring the assembly backwards) then snugging the bolt down.
It's still a pos but works a bit better this way.
 
Thank you. So what exactly qualifies this as a "kit" knife? I didn't purchase a kit, I just bought a knife, took the fake paracord off, reprofiled and added scales I crafted myself from a plank of mesquite I sourced at my local Woodcraft store and affixed them with some brass rod stock I cut to size. Does "kit" refer to a knife that already has the blade heat treated & tempered? Just trying to educate myself on the lingo :thumbup:

I'll try to peruse the stickies when I get some time.

A "KIT KNIFE" is generally any knife made using a finished blade. Some come complete with all parts and others come with just a blade. Taking a finished knife apart and re-handling it would be considered a kit knife to some folks, others might call it a Mod ( modification).......It really isn't a custom build in any sense of the words. Folks get pretty defensive of the term Custom when the maker didn't make the blade. Technically, a "custom knife" is a knife built to someone's specs or custom order. It is sometimes called a "custom mod" when a customer asks for an existing knife to be changed to have different features.
 
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Nice work, You can take those small scratches in the blade out with 1000grit wet/dry (black) sandpaper. You can buy this at any hardware store. Keep in mind to not touch the lines of the knife when you do this though. It will come out to a mirror polish with some sanding. Just FYI. Turned out great for your first knife. Maybe a couple good coats of POLY for the handle? :thumbup:
 
To the previous replies: Click here for the next 3 knives on my blog I started. I'll make a thread for them here when I get a chance to work out the image links or upload them elsewhere.

Yes, I just haven't had a chance to stock up a variety of sandpaper grits yet. I'd like to find a place where I can buy in larger packs because the 3-5 sheet packs are over priced in my opinion.

As for Poly coat for the handle, would that work on top of boiled linseed oil? That's what I coated the lace wood with. So far, I'm not a fan of the linseed oil. It may function well, but as for looks, it leaves a dull coat but then maybe I'm slathering it on too thick or it's too cold in my work area when I'm applying it? I'm not sure, but I will be reading up and looking into other methods to try out. If you check out the next 3 knives in my blog, I found & used some "Texas Ebony" wood on one of the knives & I really love the look & grain of the wood, so I want something better to show of that beauty when it comes to the coating because the linseed oil didn't do much for it.
 
Oh, and thank you for the kind & helpful comments! I'm really enjoying this new hobby! I'm also looking forward to learning how to do some leather crafting making the sheaths...and I'll be making a western holster for a Heritage .22 LR pistol I picked up on black Friday from Academy for $99.
 
You might have figured this out already but there's a tension adjustment on the 1x30 that's separate from the track knob. The tracking assembly is spring loaded to pivot around a large bolt at the back of the machine. Seems like this bolt always comes torqued way down so nothing moves. Also the spring is pretty wimpy. I've started physically tensioning the belt (roaring the assembly backwards) then snugging the bolt down.
It's still a pos but works a bit better this way.

I just bought one of these sanders today and I see what you mean. I have not tried it out yet but thanks for mentioning this.
 
If you do some web searches you can find a few videos on people doing some mods to the HF 1x30 that make it a bit better for knife making.
 
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