My first D2 folder: how should I maintain it? Any food-safe products?

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Nov 15, 2006
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After a long hiatus from carrying knives, I've started easing back into it. Been trying a couple of old favorites (Microtech LCC and Spyderco Delica) and some newer stuff (CRK Sebenza 21 and Wilson Umnumzaan).

I think I've finally found "the one."

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This is my first D2 blade. I noticed a tiny rust spot after testing it in the kitchen: slicing tomatoes and stuff. I know D2 isn't really a stainless steel, but I was a little surprised. I'm definitely going to be careful to keep it clean, lubed, and coated. I'll carry it in my pocket while in street clothes ... but it'll be clipped to my waistband when wearing scrubs at work. I'm a little worried about how well it'll hold up.

What would be best to (a) lube the pivot and (b) protect the blade? I was thinking of going with Marine Tuf-Cloth for corrosion protection and whatever wonder-lube you nerds think is best LOL.

So, what do you say? Anything food safe?
 
I used to use BreakFree CLP on my firearms. Is it better than Tuf-Glide?
 
For a knife you use on food I would highly recommend mineral oil. Breakfree and tomatos does not sound very tasty.

If the pivot has PB washers then it probably doesn't need oil for a good while, self lubing IIRC. It will eventually need a little lube and when it does it will only need a small drop, and as long as the oil is not thick just about anything will work. I like benchmade blue lube, Lucas gun oil or some WD-40... I know I know, but WD-40 actually works very well.

If it were mine, I would acid dip the blade to force a patina which greatly helps to protect the blade in everyday use.
 
mineral oil is food safe, frog lube is suppose to be food safe iirc. i use Fluid Film, its lanolin based (sheep) so make sure you or anyone that uses it wont be allergic to lanolin. fluid film will prevent rust on the blade. D2 shouldnt have any huge problem with rust tho. coat the blade then wipe it off. after wiping it off, there is a thin layer on it that will be enough.

for the pivot use mineral oil because its food safe. or food safe greese. blue lube is not food safe iirc, but it is mineral oil based. i wouldnt use WD-40 for a lubricant, essentially its mineral oil when it dries but its a bit sticky imho, but others have used it.

Tuff glide is not food safe, however when it is dry, technically it is food safe, but they cannot label it that because if it chips off, then its not.

awesome knife i want one of those!
 
For a knife you use on food I would highly recommend mineral oil.
mineral oil is food safe, frog lube is suppose to be food safe iirc. i use Fluid Film, its lanolin based (sheep) so make sure you or anyone that uses it wont be allergic to lanolin. fluid film will prevent rust on the blade.
I thought about mineral oil (or Tsubaki, which I use on my Japanese kitchen knives). But it's kind of sticky and attracts dust, so I don't think it would be a great choice for something carried in the pocket.

I've heard of FrogLube here on BFC. I might try it. Sounds like a paste wax type of thing, right?

If the pivot has PB washers then it probably doesn't need oil for a good while, self lubing IIRC.
Good point. I didn't think of that.
 
If it were mine, I would acid dip the blade to force a patina which greatly helps to protect the blade in everyday use.
I generally do like some patina on carbon steel knives. But the Dozier has a certain charm the way it is. I'd like to keep it bright and sparkly if I can!
 
Wow, that's a beauty... dro-o-o-o-l! I use BreakFree on all my blades, and no, I can't detect any transfer to food (just rinse before use). My Dozier K1 General Purpose FB gets a lot of kitchen use -- I just dry it thoroughly after use and store it in the wax-impregnated (SnowSeal) leather sheath. Dozier's D2 is highly rust/corrosion resistant, and I wouldn't worry about a beauty spot or two if you're going to use it as a good knife deserves. (If it really, really bothers you, drop me a line about getting rid of that Dozier:D.)
 
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